Well, I just finished ripping out some tile and mixing some JB Weld. This morning I heard a hissing noise inside my shower wall. I ripped out a couple tiles and found a pin hole leak from a copper pipe inside my shower wall spraying the drywall. The house is about 20 years old and the leak is not where two pipes connect, but is on a bend of the cold water pipe that comes into the temperature adjustment gauge. I patched the hold with some JB Weld (a compound that comes in two tubes, which you mix and then is supposed to harden as tough as steel). I was curious if anyone has used this before for this type of job or if there are any thoughts on whether this will be successful. These pipes are not very accessible and once I patch the wall and re-tile it I'd prefer not to open it again. However, at the same time I don't think I'm qualified to rip out the pipes and replace them. Is this JB Weld stuff a real solution or is there something else I need to do? Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!! :)

I would definitely not leave this without making sure the repair is permanent. You really don't need water spraying around inside your walls in the middle of the night.

If the pipes are standard copper pipes, I would replace the pipes by sweating in new pipes and fittings. It's not difficult to do, but you usually need someone to show you the right way to do it the first time. If you don't feel qualified, a hundred bucks for a plumber is probably a reasonable investment considering the cost of repairing a damaged wall.

I would not sleep well with JB Weld over pressurized pipe inside my wall. You can get SharkBite coupling, cut the pipe at the point of leak and install the coupling.

Sharkbites would be tough to do on a curve. Hardware store has them. You also need a fair bit of pipe wiggle room.

Perito, Milo, and KeepItSimpleStupid, thanks for the advice, I really appreciate it!!
Last night I put a layer of JB Weld over the leak to try and temporarily fix the problem so my wife could have running water until I can find a more permanent solution. The shark bite sounds like a good idea that I'm considering, but would I need to remove the previously applied JB Weld to provide a smooth surface? The JB Weld is still slightly soft and I may be able to partially remove it in the next couple hours. Thanks in advance.

If you really don't want to fix it the right way - then there is one more option: you can buy stainless steel repair clamp. It just clamps over the pipe and ties with 2 bolts. We use them for emergencies.

But, there is nothing better than doing it the "right" way...

Anything other than a proper repair is a hack job at best. Putting putty over a leaking pipe then closing up the wall is just asking for a repeat of the leak. Water inside the wall will rot it out, cause smelly mildew, and dangerous mold.

No matter what the set-up, there's always a way to do it right. Cut the section of pipe out and replace it with new copper or another type of code-approved pipe. Better yet, just call a plumber and it'll be done even faster.

Lets think about it, what could cause just one pin hole in a pipe and not weaken the entire length of the pipe? If you have one hole already, there are likely several others on the verge of breaking through. I'd replace all of that copper pipe and if you don't have the skill or time then pay a plumber to do it. Some pipe patching material may be acceptable for drains but never supply pipes.

I am sorry Bob I meant you, Thanks.

John

I've included a picture of the pipe below. In the back right on the elbow you can see where I applied the JB weld as a temporary fix. As you can see I'm working in a pretty tight space. First question - would a dremel be the best way to cut that pipe or are there other suggestions? Second - has anyone used the Sharkbite flexible pex tubing and do you think that could be used here? I'm considering cutting the front pipe, where I would install a Sharkbite push-fit fitting, and then cutting beneath the elbow where the leak is and then using another push-fit fitting and the flexible pex tubing to connect the two. Thanks in advance.

http://www.altiplanobowlers.com/images/leak.jpg

Turn water off. Drain water. Take torch and apply heat in the area where 2-90 are soldered together. Wait few moments. Pull on horizontal pipe. It will slip out . Then, take wedge and put about 12" down from the 90 and between 2x4 on the vertical pipe. Apply heat on Street 90 on vertical pipe. Take channel lock and pull it out. Clean end of pipe. Apply flux. Insert new Street 90. Apply flux on Street 90 end. Insert into other (old) 90 on horizontal pipe. Heat it up. Solder. Wipe with wet cloth. Wait few minutes. Open water.

Since the vertical pipe is too close to the stud, you can use Heat Shield pad so you don't burn your house down.

I would say if you can remove the unsweat the 90's and, buy new ones and replaced them by sweating it is the best way every one will be pleased especially Bob.

If not yes you can use the Sharkbite you would need 2 90 Degrees and two coupling and some copper tubing, see your picture below, Thanks.

John

I basically agree with afaroo, but you need two "repair couplings" not "couplings". "couplings have stops, {repair couplings do not.

Cur as advised and measure the wacky thing and test fit the pipes.

Remove the assembly and solder the elbows externally.

Now, put the repair couplings on the tube and prepare the ends and slide assembly into place. I usually mark where the repair couplings are to sit.

Solder and use a heat shield.

That is a very tight spot. You can cut the horizontal pipe with a compact tubinmg cutter and then unsweat the lebow from the vertical pipe. I'd insert a piece of sheet metal between the fittings and the stud after spraying the studs with water. Sharkbites are allowed inside a wall space so you could legally do what you describ. However, my trust level for Sharkbites prevents me from using them on my own home. If someoen pays me to install them I will since they will last long after I am out of business. I just don't see them lasting for 40 years.

I agree Ballengerb. Two sharkbite couplings with a piece of pex in between would be an easy fix. But I also don't recommend using sharkbites in an enclosed area. They seal by way of rubber o-ring. And we all know what happens to rubber o-rings over a length of time. Best bet here is to just sweat in new copper fittings and pipe. Make sure to reem the copper pipe. Most likely the reason you have a pinhole now is because the pipe wasn't reemed when installed. Please let us know how things work out. But definitely get rid of the jb weld 90. You may find that once pipe is cut, you may have enough play in verical pipe to just use one 90.

See your picture is the leak on the top of the elbow that I have marked, and I agree with every that sweating is the best if you think you can do it go for it, other vise go for the Sharkbite, good luck.

Thanks.

John

Hey Everyone, thanks for the help! I think I'm going to try sweating the pipes and then go from there.

Afaroo/John - you are correct, the leak is where you indicated, on top of that far elbow.

Thanks,
Marty

Very Good let us know when you are done, Thanks.

John