I have a sears lawn tractor 917.258660 that won't start.

The solenoid justs clicks. I replaced the battery, but that didn't help. The jumped the battery directly to the starter and the engine turned over fine - so I think I eliminated the battery and the starter as the problem.

I then put a jumper from one solenoid post to the other and again the engine turned over.
Does this mean the solenoid is good or bad? The key was off. I traced the wiring as much as possible and by passed the seat switch - all I get is the solenoid clicking when I try to start from the key.

Any ideas appreciated.

Jack

Jack,

This is a popular problem. Besides the seat switch you have a safety on the clutch pedal and the deck handle.

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Originally Posted by jsfocke

Jack,

This is a popular problem. Besides the seat switch you have a safety on the clutch pedal and the deck handle.

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Thanks - first time I have used this site so not sure if this is how get back to you. I forgot to mention that when I try to start the tractor the clicking in the solenoid stops ( no noise) when the clutch/brake is not fully pushed in or when the blades are engaged. This makes me think those switches work. What is weird to me is the clicking in the solenoid still occurs whether I am on the seat (seat switch engaged) or not.

I will try to find the switch on the deck handle - didn't see it on the wiring diagram.

Thanks- Jack

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Originally Posted by crabs

Thanks - first time I have used this site so not sure if this is how get back to you. I forgot to mention that when I try to start the tractor the clicking in the solenoid stops ( no noise) when the clutch/brake is not fully pushed in or when the blades are engaged. This makes me think those switches work. What is weird to me is the clicking in the solenoid still occurs whether I am on the seat (seat switch engaged) or not.

I will try to find the switch on the deck handle - didn't see it on the wiring diagram.

Thanks- Jack

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It does sound to me like it is probably the solenoid then. You can test it.

It believe it has two large posts and one small terminal. If this is correct you can remove the wire from the small terminal and use a small jumper wire to go from the positive post on the battery to this small terminal. That will do the same thing as if you were turning the switch with all the safeties working. Of course, make sure it is out of gear and the parking brake is set.

If the solenoid has two large posts and two small terminals then you will need to unhook both of the small ones and hook up a positive wire to one and a negative wire to the other. It doesn't matter which wire goes which post.

If is cranks over fine when you do this then the solenoid is fine. If it doesn't then you have a problem somewhere else.

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Originally Posted by jsfocke

It does sound to me like it is probably the solenoid then. You can test it.

It believe it has two large posts and one small terminal. If this is correct you can remove the wire from the small terminal and use a small jumper wire to go from the positive post on the battery to this small terminal. That will do the same thing as if you were turning the switch with all the safeties working. Of course, make sure it is out of gear and the parking brake is set.

If the solenoid has two large posts and two small terminals then you will need to unhook both of the small ones and hook up a positive wire to one and a negative wire to the other. It doesn't matter which wire goes which post.

If is cranks over fine when you do this then the solenoid is fine. If it doesn't then you have a problem somewhere else.

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Thanks again - One more question before I test it. I can see two large terminals- both appear to be the same size. One is from the battery (+ red cable). The other one (+ also ) goes directly to the starter. I tired this before but left them both hooked up and jumped between them- the engine turned over. I now realize this merely made a direct positive connection. It appears there are two small terminals also one for a white wire and one for a black wire. It it these two wires I unhook for the test.

Thanks - Jack

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Originally Posted by crabs

Thanks again - One more question before I test it. I can see two large terminals- both appear to be the same size. One is from the battery (+ red cable). The other one (+ also ) goes directly to the starter. I tired this before but left them both hooked up and jumped between them- the engine turned over. I now realize this merely made a direct postive connection. It appears there are two small terminals also one for a white wire and one for a black wire. It it these two wires I unhook for the test.

Thanks - Jack

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Yes. One of those wires goes to the ignition switch. It is the positive wire. The other goes to your safety switches. It is the ground. It take both of them to make the solenoid work. If you have a test light or a gauge you can see which one of these wires isn't working. My guess is that you are not getting the ground for the solenoid from the safety switches.

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Originally Posted by jsfocke

Yes. One of those wires goes to the ignition switch. It is the positive wire. The other goes to your safety switches. It is the ground. It take both of them to make the solenoid work. If you have a test light or a guage you can see which one of these wires isn't working. My guess is that you are not getting the ground for the solenoid from the safety switches.

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Thanks again. I pulled off the white wire ( goes to ignition) and directly jumped the white terminal on the solenoid directly to the battery - nothing. Would the key have to be on - I didn't do that? Thinking the solenoid was the problem I pulled the solenoid. Now I hear you saying I should test the black wire with a test light. If it's the problem it looks like I have to basically tear the tractor apart to test all the switches. Never could locate the blade or clutch switch but think they work as I heard no click when they were disengaged.

Thanks again - Jack - think I am getting closer

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Originally Posted by crabs

Thanks again. I pulled off the white wire ( goes to ignition) and directly jumped the white terminal on the solenoid directly to the battery - nothing. Would the key have to be on - I didn't do that?? Thinking the solenoid was the problem I pulled the solenoid. Now I hear you saying I should test the black wire with a test light. If its the problem it looks like I have to basically tear the tractor apart to test all the switches. Never could locate the blade or clutch switch but think they work as I heard no click when they were disengaged.

Thanks again - - think I am getting closer

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Problem solved. I grounded a wire directly from the solenoid black wire terminal to the body of the tractor by passing the safety switches - I think. Still got nothing. So replaced the solenoid- bingo- started right up.

Thanks for the help - Jack

Great!

It's good to hear about a success story.

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Originally Posted by crabs

Problem solved. I grounded a wire directly from the solenoid black wire terminal to the body of the tractor by passing the safety switches - I think. Still got nothing. So replaced the solenoid- bingo- started right up.

Thanks for the help - Jack

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Guys -- same problem. Clicks upon turning the key. Sometimes it starts after turning the key twice, sometimes it takes 6 or 8 "clicks" before the starter engages. Since the solenoid "clicks" when the key is turned, I assumed switches were good. However, since its clicking at all, I also assumed the solenoid was good and there might be a brush problem in the starter. After reading this, I think the solenoid is a better place to start. Same symptoms? Intermittent?

Hi,
If it not the same model, you might be better served by starting a new question. For instance a Kawasaki engine on a John Deere does what you describe and has a totally different solution.
Peace,
Clarke