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Hi,
Its now 2012, and I have found this thread and I have tried what you have indicated but it looks like we have to replace the CCU, then we called to order the part and it wasn't any 119$ it is 236$ in Canada, so now we are contemplating just getting another machine. This machine sucks, not sure if you feel the same way?
Ngibbison
I did not see the rest of this post where you said to tap on the relays, however, this indicates that the contacts were stuck together. If this continues to happen and you are considering replacing the CCU, you can buy the relays at Radio Shack for about $2.00 each and solder them on the circuit board.Quote:
Originally Posted by dacajclhc
Hi drtom4444,
Thanks for your reply,
My husband took about the machine and unplugged the CCU and then tapped on all the relays as far as he could tell and then replaced all the plugs and then turned it on, it ran a little longer but it does not drain at all, and then the F-01 code comes up. So we are assuming we have to replace the CCU. I have a local service guy- who is trying to help us out with the cost of the part- but if you have any further ideas, I would love to hear them. Thanks in advance!
ngibbison
Hello, I would try to replace the relays first. You can trace the relays to what they control and just replace the ones that test bad, but it would be best to just replace all of them which is what they do when they refurbish the parts and resell them. The relays can be matched at an electronics supply store where they wholesale to technicians. They can look up the relays so the coil voltage and contact load rating can be matched or better relays that last longer can be used. The same coil voltage with 5 amp relays instead of 1 amp relays can be used and you would have a CCU that would outlast the rest of the machine.
A Mechanical Relay is sort of 2 Poles with a metal sheet between them.One pole is a coiled magnet and when its charged by 1 type of current it causes the two other elements to come in contact magnetically switching a different type of current.
For example I have a Relay that I bought to monitor a 5v (USB PORT) and switch a 110v power outlet wired to the relay so my USB has power (computer is on or off) it will automatically power on the fans in the in wall enclosure that the system resides in.
Problem with mechanical relays is that the electric magnet will eventually magnetize 1 or 2 of the other elements in the relay causing them to stay in contact when the relay is not active. So tapping it will cause them to break free..
So this yes will fix it but only extend the life there will come a point where the magnetic force is too great and the two elements won't separate from a simple tap.
What I am curious to know is the what exactly are these relays doing and can I find the equivalent in a solid state relay (no moving parts no magnetic problems). Any one given component has a number of uses before it statistically fails. Different Relays in the same voltage specs can have 1000 switches before failure or rated to 500000 switches before failure. Same reason why a digital SLR camera counts how many times the shutter has been used telling you the life of the camera.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fearstyle
http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/io/io23.gif
This image is a awesome example of a modern relay that's inside one of those box's. See the magnet causes the metal to move by pulling it to the magnet. This in turn moves the contact. Again the contact will eventually become magnetized and cause it to stick to one of the electrical connectors.
So I just got a F01 and did a reset it worked. What I'm wondering being that there are so many posts around the internet this is a part prone to failure and is not worth having a spare.
But again makes me wonder if I can't find a solid state relay and do some soldering and purposely void the warranty to improve a product altogether.. There are some major advantages of a SSRelay vs a mechanical one that's in here...
Time to do some research mouser.com here I come :)
Yes, there are solid state relays that use diode-like devices, but the current they will control is small and it takes a really big one to control just an amp or two. What is done is to use a small expensive relay to control a larger, heavy duty relay. I have wired these in many times in large AC units where I will use a small 24 volt relay run by the thermostat to run a large contactor running on 240 volts instead of having a large 24 volt relay that burns up the thermostat from the load. I will wire in a small relay for each function to control the compressor/condenser fan contactor, one for the inside blower contactor, and one for the heat strips contactor. These systems last a very long time because your control switches are only switching milliamps at 24 volts. I don't like to switch a contactor drawing 1 amp with a tiny relay on a circuit board that costs a lot to replace; it's too much load and an expensive failure.
When those relays start sticking they may eventually fail, so you can get new ones and solder them on the circuit board and it will be like new.
v111 you rock! My whirlpool washer had an f01 code. I called Sears and my warranty was up. They were going to charge me $75 and $225 for the part. I tried v111 folllowing the directios described and IT WORKED! Thank you!
How do we remove the CCU? We opened up the machine, but can't figure out how to get the CCU off. Help?
See if this helps: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/8010163/Whi...0Job%20Aid.pdf
V111 You are AMAZING!! I got this unit off craigslist for FREE after reading the post with hopes the 'tapping' solution would work - IT DID!! Thank you so much!!
PS my model is a Maytag Epic Z about 3 years old
Thank you so much v111 and tiburonguy for reposting!! It worked! Slid white box with all the wires to the right until it was lose and banged on the back of it, put it back and now I'm washing again : )
Thanks for posting the full instructions on fixing this error message. I tried it twice and it still errors out about 10 minutes into any cycle. I also removed about 8 coins & a small wood screw from the pump's filter area.
I wondering if the F01 error could also arise from an overloaded tumbler. We've put some large loads in before without any trouble.
I'm envious of everyone who has fixed their problem with the aforementioned instructions. Any other thoughts on what to do beyond replacing the CCU?
scjdeke,
You solution of removing circuit card from from plastic housing and tapping relay with screw driver worked great for solving F-01 error code.
Thanks.
How did you get the circuit card from the plastic housing?
Here is a manual: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...0Job%20Aid.pdf
You will find plenty of instructions here.
I cannot believe it, but it worked. Thank you thank you thank you!
I have to echo everyone else's positive results in rapping the CCU board on the machine because of V111's suggestion. I couldn't believe that it actually worked, but it did; now my mind is trying to wrap around why? Either way, definitely give his suggestion a try and you may also be surprised by the results!
Thanks, V111!
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