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-   -   No Hot Water in Shower - Moen Single Handle Faucet (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=63286)

  • Feb 15, 2007, 07:38 PM
    johnsmom
    No Hot Water in Shower - Moen Single Handle Faucet
    I've read most of the questions on this website about this matter, but I'm still confused. I pulled off the handle and wall plate. But what do I do after that?

    I see a small (4 inch approx.) hole in the wall with a "unit" that looks like a cartridge that holds the handle. I can turn it to hot and cold, but that's about all I can move. What do I need to look for to clean out any possible garbage that may be stopping the hot water from reaching the shower? And yes, the faucet at the sink does produce very hot water!

    If you can describe to me what I need to do - step by step, I would greatly appreciate your help!! I am REALLY tired of taking luke warm showers!!
    THANKS!
  • Feb 16, 2007, 09:59 AM
    speedball1
    Moen faucets have only one moving part. The stem slides up and down to open and close the faucet and rotates to regulate the flow of hot and cold water. Any leaking requires replacement of the cartridge.


    First, turn off the water. To remove the cartridge, you'll need to remove the handle. This project can be like working a puzzle. If you have the manufacturer's instruction sheet for the faucet, you're ahead of the game. Without it, look for a retainer clip at the rear of the faucet just below the handle. Or, you may have to remove a set screw or snap-in "hot-cold" button and a handle pin or screw. On some faucets the swing spout must come off first. The retainer clip may be hiding beneath the handle inside a lift-out tube. Some cartridge faucets use two retainer clips–one by the handle and another by the cartridge. Retainer clips can be pried out with a screwdriver.


    Once the retainer clip is removed, the cartridge simply pulls out. Use pliers, as shown in Fig. 6. Install the new cartridge by pushing it into place with the flat arrow, or other mark upward. If you use a lubricant on the cartridge, make sure it's silicone grease.

    Check and clean the cartridge inlet ports. Before you button up the faucet turn the water back on for a minute to flush out the supplies.\Good luck, Tom
  • Feb 16, 2007, 10:23 AM
    johnsmom
    Ok, I've turned off the water. I've pulled off the handle and face plate that is against the wall. I see the cartridge with some type of clip that is on top of it. But I can't pull the clip out with my regular pliers. Do I need a special tool? I don't think I can pry it up with a screw driver. I don't see any other buttons or screws that I can remove. The unit did have a metal "sleeve" over it, which was easily removed. Now what??
  • Feb 16, 2007, 04:21 PM
    speedball1
    Get a grip on the clip and pull hard. There's nothing securing it. If it comes out hard stick a small rod through the hole in the clip and tap it out. Nowc pull the cartridge out. Good luck, Tom
  • Feb 17, 2007, 08:16 PM
    doug238
    I sure hope you turned the house main off first.
    Your problem sounds more like a scaldguard adjustment than a cartridge problem. Under the handle is 2 plastic parts that have gears on them. They are adjustable to limit the range motion of the handle. Basically, it stops the range of the handle from turning all the way over to hot. On the château the adjustment is on the metal sleeve. The gears are under the handle on the positemp.
  • Feb 20, 2007, 02:34 PM
    johnsmom
    Thanks everyone! Both showers now have HOT water!! Now to try to figure out why the pressure is lower than the cold water!! Could it be because of the extremely hard water ( no softner system - lots of lime, etc.) that we have here in central TX?? Is there anything that can be done to clear up some of the pipes -without paying major bills??
  • Feb 20, 2007, 04:14 PM
    doug238
    Make sure the water heater valve is completely open. Letmetellu is from Texas, he may be more familiar with your water.
  • Nov 27, 2007, 12:57 PM
    yucongtao
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by johnsmom
    Thanks everyone! Both showers now have HOT water!!! Now to try to figure out why the pressure is lower than the cold water!!! Could it be because of the extremely hard water ( no softner system - lots of lime, etc.) that we have here in central TX??? Is there anything that can be done to clear up some of the pipes -without paying major bills???

    Can you tell me how you fixed exactly? Did you replace the catridge or simply adjust the scaldguard? I have a very similar problem that the same moen single handle shower faucet does not produce hot water. Thanks.

    -yucong
  • Nov 27, 2007, 09:51 PM
    doug238
    Replace the cartridge if it is leaking.
    There are 2 types of moen single handle faucets. The château which has been around a long time, and the positemp. The château turns on by pulling the handle straight out then turn right to cold or left to hot. The positemp simply turns from right to left to turn on and to get warmer. It has a cog type gear that is under the handle which limits the amount the handle will turn to have a code required scald guard. For best results, adjust hot to a point that is very uncomfortable but you can keep your hand under it.
  • Nov 28, 2007, 11:50 AM
    yucongtao
    Thanks Doug.

    That faucet is a posi-temp valve and it is not leaking. So it is not the cartridge problem. It must be the scald guard you mentioned. I was able to retrieve the original installation instruction. It mentioned about temperature limit stops to adjust for hot/code water. Is the scald guard same as the temp limit stops?

    -yucong

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by doug238
    replace the cartridge if it is leaking.
    there are 2 types of moen single handle faucets. the chateau which has been around a long time, and the positemp. the chateau turns on by pulling the handle straight out then turn right to cold or left to hot. the positemp simply turns from right to left to turn on and to get warmer. it has a cog type gear that is under the handle which limits the amount the handle will turn to have a code required scald gaurd. for best results, adjust hot to a point that is very uncomfortable but you can keep your hand under it.

  • Nov 28, 2007, 05:57 PM
    doug238
    Yes, it is.
  • Dec 27, 2008, 08:57 AM
    rniyogi
    I have the exact problem that is described in this thread. I have had 2 plumbers come and look at it and all they did is just change the cartridge, but that did not seem to help at all, rather worsened the issue. I am really getting frustrated at the moment as I am tired of taking luke warm showers.

    The garden tub right next to the shower gets good hot water. From the instruction sheet from Moen (steps 3a-3c) explain about temperature settings. This is a 1222 cartridge for single handle faucet. Please help me if there is anything I can do to fix this i.e get more hot water in the shower?

    Thanks in advance!

    Raghu
  • Dec 27, 2008, 11:01 PM
    doug238
    Replace the cartridge if it is leaking.
    There are 2 types of moen single handle faucets. The château which has been around a long time, and the positemp. The château turns on by pulling the handle straight out then turn right to cold or left to hot. The positemp simply turns from right to left to turn on and to get warmer. It has a cog type gear that is under the handle which limits the amount the handle will turn to have a code required scald guard. For best results, adjust hot to a point that is very uncomfortable but you can keep your hand under it.
  • Dec 29, 2008, 07:28 AM
    rniyogi
    Thank you Doug! I do have posi temp. But, my question is how to adjust the cartridge to get more hot water. Please pardon my ignorance. I am not that familiar with plumbing, but trying to do stuff on my own as the last 2 plumber visists have been expensive and not getting any results. So, I would like to try this on my own. I would appreciate if you can send me step by step directions to do so.
  • Dec 30, 2008, 06:01 AM
    doug238

    Take the handle off. There is a 2 piece white cog [gear assembly]. The outer piece is how to adjust the hot limit. The inner piece can only go in one way. Adjust the outer piece counter clockwise to get the handle to allow more roaming to the hot side.
    The positemp simply turns from right to left to turn on and to get warmer. It has a cog type gear that is under the handle which limits the amount the handle will turn to have a code required scald guard. For best results, adjust hot to a point that is very uncomfortable but you can keep your hand under it.
  • Dec 30, 2008, 03:41 PM
    rniyogi
    Hi Doug,

    Ok. Here is the issue. The plumber took out the temp. control (white cogin - gear assembly), but still made no difference.

    Question: By adjusting the gear assembly, does it allow the know to rotate beyong 270 degrees (beyond 9'o clock position)?

    What else could I try ?
  • Dec 31, 2008, 06:06 AM
    doug238

    johnsmom, were you able to remedy your situation?

    rniyogiis there any valves or integral stops on your faucet? Does your faucet start with hot or cold when on? The cartridge may be reversed. Describe what happens when you turn the faucet on slightly, and then half, and then at 9:00. Do you have full flow?
  • Dec 31, 2008, 06:29 AM
    rniyogi
    [Hi Doug,

    Here are the answers:

    It didn't remedy the situation, the problem is still there.
    Faucet start with clock with counter clockwise (270 degrees - fully hot)
    At 6'0 clock position, it is off
    At 3'0 clock position, it is cold
    At 12'0 clock position, it is semi cold and warm
    At 9'0 clock position, it is luke warm (which technically should be as hot as other faucets)
  • Jan 1, 2009, 11:08 PM
    doug238

    OK, let's brainstorm this thing. You have adequate hot water at the fixture next to it. You have removed the hot limit inhibitor. There are no valves in the hot line on the shower that are partially closed? You have full pressure and volume on the hot side?
    These are the things that could cause lukewarm water on a hot line. Not saying any of these are the answer, but brainstorming. A leak on the hot water pipe. A t&p valve partially open. A faucet that is allowing a crossover and feeding cold water into a hot line. A prv [pressure regulating valve] that is on the hot side but no prv on the cold side [cold pressure higher than hot pressure]. A recirculating system that is allowing a crossover [it is supposed to have a check valve that does not allow it to go backwards]. Debris in the hot side that is restricting the flow of hot water. A valve that is partially closed.
    Any of this sound familiar?
  • Jan 3, 2009, 07:24 AM
    rniyogi
    Yes, there is almost full pressure on the hot water side. Not sure about the valve partially being closed. The plumber says it could be valve too and suggested to change that, but want to get forum's opinion on this. Is it really going to help. Sombody said, drain the hot water heater once to remove sediments, but other faucets give good hot water.

    If at all we have to change the valve, is it good to go with separate controls (one of hot and another for cold)?

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