Brass water valve needs to be replaced, it's in a very tight location to afford a large wrench good grip and leverage. It is cracked -probably done by me trying to muscle it out. So do I have to cut it out?

Pipe dope is a lubricant. Granted it does harden some over time but can be removed with wire brush or sand paper. It would not prevent removal of the valve. Sure this wasn't a soldered valve?

Tell us more about what you are doing.

It's all threaded pipe in there under the sink. The shut off was leaking, mostly when I had to close it. I repacked the nut and changed the washer; all would've been hunky-dory but I must've cracked the valve when struggling to remove the stem now it has to be replaced and I can't budge it

You should be able to remove it using 2 wrenches. If that won't work then take a torch and heat the end of the valve until it gets reddish... then remove with the wrenches. The extreme heat causes the metal to expand and should make the valve easier to remove.

Let us know how you make out... OK?

Mark

I didn't mention this is a valve that is in the middle of the pipe run, it controls the water for the sink and the bathtub. Does that change your recommendation?

Given that info. you need to cut the valve/pipe out to the nearest fitting and then install a new valve with brass nipples and a union.

When cutting the pipe be sure not to vibrate things too much or you could cause a leak at a further joint and really make this job grow!

Might want to check the bonnet nut or packing nut. You may have over tighten that and split the nut. I don't see how you could have cracked the valve itself. If so, and you can find a replacement (new valve, same type) you may be able to replace the packing nut only. Less work than replacing complete valve.

Are we correct in assuming that this is galvanized iron pipe?

No, brass pipe. I have already checked nuts repacked them and adjusted fits the leak is coming from a small hole that broke out of the valve itself near the threading.

Brass pipes? Afraid if you cut pipes you are going to get into a pipe threading situation. Can you show us a picture.

A picture would help, but if the valve is unrepairable and in the middle of a piping arrangement you will need to cut the valve and rejoin using brass nipples and a union fitting as mentioned at my last post... ;)

But Mark, wouldn't he need nipples to fit exactly between the last fitting and the valve? How about a compression coupling? Does Sharkbite make fittings for brass?

I know what you are thinking here, Harold, but even most brass piping arrangements have some movement and using a union should be able to reconnect all together... although I am sure it will be real tight, for sure.

If there is no movement in the pipes then grumpjoy could always elbow out from the first threaded fitting, pipe up and then elbow back in to the top threaded fitting connecting a union between somewhere... that would work, too. I drew up what I mean to be clear for grumpjoy...

Could even go copper pipe and sharkbite fittings... again elbowing out and back if needed... see other image.

Mark

OK, I can go with the Sharkbites.

Still would like to see that picture.

OK sounds like I need to invest in a plumber.it"s getting too complicated. I cannot budge any connections with large pipe wrenches because there isn't much room to maneuver them and I'm concerned I'll break something else. I did cut the valve in half but still can't detach it from the threaded pipes. Would compression fittings work if I cut the threaded sections off?

A picture, PLEASE

Final update... the plumber went with Mark's idea He used soldered copper between the threaded brass pipes and the same cutoff you drew. Thank you so much for the help.

Thanks for the update! Glad you're up and running agan!