Replaced battery with new one, within several starts the new battery was drained. Mower will start by jumping but only runs a few minutes then dies, also the PTO will not engage at all (replaced PTO switch and still won't engage) does not even attempt to engage, as if there is no power to the switch. Anyone have any suggestions?

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Originally Posted by vfreeman1031

Replaced battery with new one, within several starts the new battery was drained. Mower will start by jumping but only runs a few minutes then dies, also the PTO will not engage at all (replaced PTO switch and still won't engage) does not even attempt to engage, as if there is no power to the switch. Anyone have any suggestions??

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See if you had a multi meter we could see if your coil is charging your battery when its running. You could even by a cheaper battery tester and stick it on there when its running and it should read about 13volts which would mean its charging the battery.

But would that prevent my PTO switch from engaging also?

Well that Im not sure of that's why I want to get the model # from you so I can look at the wiring diagram. Im not sure what's all on the mower.

The model number is #13AR606P730 . Thanks in advance for any help you can give me. Also, do you have any idea where the safety switch is located that disengages the blades when the mower is put into reverse? Someone said that wire may have come unplugged, so I wanted to check that also.

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Originally Posted by vfreeman1031

Replaced battery with new one, within several starts the new battery was drained. Mower will start by jumping but only runs a few minutes then dies, also the PTO will not engage at all (replaced PTO switch and still won't engage) does not even attempt to engage, as if there is no power to the switch. Anyone have any suggestions??

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I have a Craftsman, by AYP, with exactly the same problem and symptoms-exactly. I am puzzled.

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Originally Posted by wutafuta

See if you had a multi meter we could see if your coil is charging your battery when its running. You could even by a cheaper battery tester and stick it on there when its running and it should read about 13volts which would mean its charging the battery.

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The STATOR is what produces the charge to the battery. The stator is under the flywheel, the magnets that are on the bottom inside of the flywheel spins quickly around the stator which is stationary and produces the electro magnetic field, therefore, producing energy (charge).

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Originally Posted by wutafuta

See if you had a multi meter we could see if your coil is charging your battery when its running. You could even by a cheaper battery tester and stick it on there when its running and it should read about 13volts which would mean its charging the battery.

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Some coils actually do have a Stator directly in them. So hmm without the extra info I couldn't find out if it did or not which is why I suggested a simple way to determine if it did.

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Originally Posted by vfreeman1031

the model number is #13AR606P730 . Thanks in advance for any help you can give me. Also, do you have any idea where the safety switch is located that disengages the blades when the mower is put into reverse? Someone said that wire may have come unplugged, so I wanted to check that also.

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Should be around the gear selector and be a grey , or grey and black rectangled shaped box with a plunger on one end and an electrical connection on the other.

Dear husky I ran into this same problem some years ago and found that the relay under the hood had shorted out or had become wet I pulled one off my other mower and replaced it and it cranked and the pto would engage without making the engine die I don't know if that is what's wrong with yours but its worth a try.

That is very interesting, Cowboy1pastor. Thanks for the info

First off we need to get your engine running constantly before we go into the PTO or the charging system. If the mower only cranks then shut off in a few min or seconds try taking the air filter off and squirting a little gas into Carb to see if it stays running (do this when it starts to sputter and sound like its going to die.) If it continues running with that little squirt of gas its most likely a "gummed up" carb or has water in the fuel (which means its in the bowl of your carb also.) You would need to drain your whole fuel system then have kit placed in the carb. The fact that it tries to run leads me to look straight to the carb as one of the main issues your having. Next if this was the problem and you have fixed it do as said by the above commenter and run your engine full throttle and place a multi meter or a battery checker on the battery it should be around 13-14 to be charging your battery while running. Good luck! SOrry for the long post time.

Boy, been there, done that! There’s a good possibility that the PTO clutch is shot and shorting out the rest of your system enough to drain the battery. The clutch is on a part of the system that is active when the ignition is on, the switch I believe completes the ground, if it’s shorted (due to the coil in the magnet having over heated usually from age or abuse) the whole electrical system is effected and te engine will shut down as a result of no power to excite the ignition. The fuse should protect the system from overloading but a lot of the times I’ve found that somebody somewhere down the line had bypassed the fuse because it had given tem trouble. Unfortunately they didn’t realize that they were only treating a symptom and not addressing the actual problem.