Our furnace worked last night but this AM it didn't. It's a 3 year old Bryant 352MAV, installed horizontally.

It's giving error 32. I've spent much of the day working with it. I'm more than handy but don't really know much about hvac.

I found that the idiots that installed it (and who are now out of business) had the condenstation drain running uphilll a bit. It seemed to drain a bit anyway, as I found water on the ground at the end of the pipe, but also saw that the pipe was nearly full of water all the time. It must have had just the right slope to allow it to fill up and then drain.

So I cut the pipe and drained it. I've got it temp set up so that it'll drain into a one gallon pan. One questions is, how much water does it output; how long would it take to fill the gallon? I'll keep an eye on it.

But mainly it's still giving me error 32 and the furnace will not run.

I have taken the inner panel door off and the little purple fuse seems to be OK. If after removing the inner panel, I depress the black switch, or put the panel back on, the main blower seems to run for about 5 minutes, and then ends. I also tried the 'test components' routine on the sticker where you disconnect the R wire and short Com 24v and test/twin; nothing happened when I did that. Did I test it wrong?

So - the fault may not be the water in the pipe, but that'd be a error 32 candidate, as I understand it. Do I need to somehow reset the furnace? After the blower runs the LED is solid for a minute and then goes back to error 32.

None of the local hvac companies are avialable for days and it's pretty cold here. Hope I can get some tips.

Check the pressure switch assembly and hoses for condensate accumulation. When the heating cycle starts, try nudging the wires that are connected to the pressure switches. If the light stops blinking and the cycle continues, the pressure switch(es) are likely defective. 3 years old? Part will be in manufacturer warranty.

I will check those hoses etc. Is the heating cycle what starts when I depress the black switch? Then the blower runs for a few minutes and then ends. The burners never start.

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Originally Posted by whittle

I will check those hoses etc. Is the heating cycle what starts when I depress the black switch? Then the blower runs for a few minutes and then ends. The burners never start.

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What code is displayed at this time?

32. After the blower runs for a few minutes, it's steady for a minute and then starts with three fact and two slow.

Blower? Are you referring to the induced draft blower or the circulating blower?

It's the big one that pushes air into the furnace, circulating.

The induced draft blower, I guess that's the one behind the black plastic cover, which has two rounded and two square corners? I don't think I've heard that one go on.

Now we're getting somewhere... if the inducer does not run it will produce the fault code you are seeing (check service label). Will the inducer turn freely? Try the wheel in the center...

I'll go up there and check to see if I can spin it. If it does spin by hand, but does not turn when I push the black switch and the main blower goes, does that mean either the inducer motor or the brains that control the inducer motor are gone? I'm not sure when I should be seeing it 'go'.

Thanks for you input, by the way, super helpful.

You might also check the harness connector to assure it is securely engaged. If you have a voltmeter, we can determine the problem in pretty short order.

This website is terrible on the security side. It logged me out; didn't accept the password; when I reset the password, it jumped through a bunch of loops but never got me a new password. And the images used to verify that one is not a machine are super hard.

OK well I learned some more. First, I disconnected the smooth black drainage or whatever tubes that lead to the white plastic condenser unit and the larger one gave a good pop as some water got cleared out of the pipe. That really changed things. I found that yes the inductor would rotate and in fact it start up, and the burners came on. But within a minute the LED went from solid to code 32 again. Then the burners went off and the blowers turned off after a few minutes. I tried it twice and it was just the same.

Where does that leave me? I do have a volt meter and a helper.

Oh, 15 minutes later it sent the new password.

The next step is to assure proper condensate drainage. The white thing? It's a trap, and if it clogs the furnace will flood with condensate and shut down. Ideally, you should remove it and flush it thoroughly every Fall. While you're at it, take the pressure switch assembly loose from its mounting (one screw should do it) and shake it to see if it is holding water. Follow these steps and try heating again, post results.

OK, thanks. What does the pressure switch assembly look like? Is it the square-flat black plastic box that the thick/smooth rubber tube comes out of?

It resembles 2 canisters mounted to a bracket with an arrangement of hoses and 4 wires, mounted to the front of the inducer with a single screw. No need to disconnect wires/hoses, just take it loose from mount and shake it.

Does the white condenser trap come apart? I'd like to really clean it. More water came out but not sure if it's gummed up inside. The pressure switch assy seemed OK, didn't really see anything change with it when I shook it.

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Originally Posted by KC13

The next step is to assure proper condensate drainage. The white thing? It's a trap, and if it clogs the furnace will flood with condensate and shut down. Ideally, you should remove it and flush it thoroughly every Fall. While you're at it, take the pressure switch assembly loose from its mounting (one screw should do it) and shake it to see if it is holding water. Follow these steps and try heating again, post results.

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I wanted you to listen for water inside switches... the trap doesn't come apart, but can be removed. Disconnect hoses, squeeze the "ears" on the top sides, and tilt it out of the hole. Flush through all openings with water.

I didn't hear water in the switch - for sure at least. I did hear some water, a kind of big bloop, but wasn't sure it came from the switch, and couldn't repro. I'll try again when I go up there.

There is no obstruction in the trap, water goes right through. I kind of suspect the little hose which I imagine communicates pressure, but I can't see beyond the first inch deep, and have no idea what happens to it after that.

If nothing I do now helps, what is the likely issue, and fix?

And if there is water in the pressure switch what do I do about it? I can't shake it very well with all the wires and hoses connected to it.

We'll cross that bridge if/when we come to it... for now just flush the trap, check switch assembly for water, and try the heating again. I service units just like yours for a living and I am instructing you exactly as I would proceed in the same situation.