Can I wire a sail switch directly from 120v to the hot wire of a blower motor?
I ordered a Honeywell model S688A1007 Sail Switch which I intend to wire N.O. to the hot wire on a blower motor (120 volt, 57 watt, 60 Hz, Panasonic FV-20NLF1 WhisperLine 240 CFM In-Line Fan), like a light swith would be wired. No idea about amp draw on this blower. I'm not an electrician and need to know whether my intended use will work or just fry something out.
Sail switch: http://customer.honeywell.com/Honeywell/ProductInfo.aspx/S688A1007
Blower: http://www2.panasonic.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ModelDetail?displayTab=O&storeId=11201&catalogId=1 3051&itemId=62511&catGroupId=119515&surfModel=FV-20NLF1
Comment on hkstroud's post
Well. Now I'm confused by different math answers. Lol. Volts divided by watts = amps. Correct? I got 120 divided by 57 = 2.105. That may also be within limits of the switch specs, but there's a lot info depending on what voltage and how the switch is set up. For the blower, the only info in the manual or online is what I mentioned above, 120v, 57w. I'm using it as an in-line AC booster fan, due to poor air flow way down line (it was already poor, but I added another duct to cool the garage/music studio). I want it to come on only when the AC does. I read that wiring directly to the HVAC blower was a bad idea. So, I'm running it off the garage wiring and want to use the switch to turn it on/off (the sail is installed up-line in the duct work, and when the air flows it blows on the sail to flip/close the switch. It springs back to open when air flow stops).
Comment on hkstroud's post
Excellent advice... and thanks for correcting my backwards division. Lol. That definitely is within spec. The way you've described is exactly how I've got it set up. Plus, I've run a wall switch (before the sail switch) to kill the whole thing, when not needed (when the garage door is open). I've got the two wires twisted and capped, until the switch arrives. But I can run it with the wall switch, for now. I've got a two story and the ducts I'm boosting are downstairs and accessed from the garage... quite a distance from the upstairs attic. Great flow with the booster fan, though.
Thanks a bunch HK!
Comment on hkstroud's post
Damn. I am clueless. Lol. You've described a few things. All great advice. I've gone power (black) to light switch, to sail switch, to fan (made the most sense to me). The switch will be about 10' up the line in the ducts, before two Y branches. Good flow there.
Comment on hkstroud's post
BTW, I was actually talking about the booster fan when I said "blower" (where you quoted me).
OK. One more question. Before I add that switch, would it actually be easier to simply run wire back to the furnace blower rely? I'd read that wasn't a good idea, but I'm thinking sooner or later that switch will still fail (it was designed to be installed at the furnace blower intake, but I'll have it down line getting cold/hot air blown on it) and that it may actually restrict air flow in the duct I install it in (A 5" wide sail in a 6" duct. Maybe I should go further, to where the duct is 10"?). Is wiring to the furnace blower rely beyond a novice?
Comment on hkstroud's post
And I just did it awrong again!! Senior moment!