Troy-Built 7 Speed
Shift-On-The-Go
Lawn Tractor – Pony
Model Number: 13AN779G766
Serial Number: 1C315B10160

I have one of those worst kinds of electrical problems “INTERMINTANT.” I suppose I’ve earned it. This machine has been abused for over 5 years now. Here is my short list.

1. I disconnected the wires to the seat switch. One less thing to worry about.

2. I had problems with the stock blades bending every little tree stump or log. Many replacements later I finally found some heaver, thicker, aggressive looking blades, and they are lasting 3 or more years.

3. I smelled gas in the garage and traced it down to the Troy-Built. Seems like the needle valve in the float bowl can stick open. This is my second MTD type mower to have this problem. The entire crankcase was full of gas. I drained the crankcase and added new oil. I ran the motor for 1 or 2 minutes, then drained the crankcase again and added full synthetic. I added a valve between the fuel tank and the carburetor. This has worked well for the last 2 years. Just have to remember to turn it off and on.

4. The frame rail just ahead of the right rear axel broke in half. That was welded, reinforced with angle iron, and welded again. Still holding.

5. Where the dash sheet metal is attached to the frame on both sides broke or tore. I had them welded. In almost no time they broke again in almost the same place. This time it was welded, reinforced with more steel, and welded again. It is holding together for now.

6. Now comes my intermittent problem. The mower just quit. After checking the electrical connections, gas line, etc. I tried it again and it started. It ran for another 20 minutes or so then quit again. I looked high and low and cannot find the problem. I tried all the connections, etc, but after 20 minutes it would still not start. I think it would be easier to wire around all the switches on the tractor. As stated above the wires for the seat switch have been disconnected.

7. The micro switches I found are two pole, one normally open and the other normally closed. One of these switches was on the break pedal. The linkage operates the switch when the pedal is fully depressed. The second switch is operated by the PTO lever. The switch is operated when the deck is fully disengaged. Each of these switches have a 4 point connector and the plug has 4 wires. One of these wires is +12 VDC the others I do not know what they are or where they go. Adding to my problem with trouble shooting the wiring is I am color blind.

I would like to wire around as many safety switches as possible and just keep it as simple as can be. Can anyone tell me how to wire around these switches and perhaps what could be causing the mower to not run?

Hi,
I must commend you on the description. Yes, sounds like it has had a hard life. You may want to enlist the aid of a color-sighted neighbor to assist you as the circuits are color-coded.
I do not normally suggest going around safety switches, but the wires to the switches are commonly either yellow or blue. Both switches use the normally open sides of the switches to operate the starter circuit. Both switches are depressed to engage that circuit which means that circuit is closed at that time. The other circuits go throuigh the seat switch which you have already taken out of play. Usually it is the top two wires ont the PTO switch and whatever color they are, it will be the same color at the clutch/brake switch.
Peace,
Clarke