Is there a way to add hydraulic fluid to a John Deere L120 riding mower? Background: it's about 5 years old. This year it is having difficulty going up hills. I thought it might be the belt, so with the unit upright, I replaced the belt. Now, it won't go at all. I believe (is this possible?) the hydraulic fluid drained out of the transaxle while the unit was upright.

Is there any way to check/add hydraulic fluid? I need to get a service manual, but in the meantime, thought I would try this forum.

Thanks

The transaxles on the are not servicable by the user. The fluid did not run out as they are sealed. Your drive belt is the problem. It was streached out if it was having trouble pulling up hills. You either have the belt miss routed or if you took either of the rear wheels off you lost the keeper out of it that locks the wheel to the transaxle or the toe valve rod at the right rear is pulled out. It needs to be pushed in to engage the trans. Post back with results. By the way you did reconnect the traction/drive spring back up didn't you? It is the thick black spring that is connected to the idler plate and the deck lift rod. Good Luck and post back with resuts. I build the L series JD and can help you

esquire1,

Thank you for the quick reply. I didn't actually complete replacing the belt. When I saw how much more work it was going to take me to replace the belt (and I wasn't sure how long it would take me), I chose to try a belt dressing first. I didn't remove any wheels. I had only removed two plates that I believe are replaced correctly.

I can see the drive belt turning... it just doesn't enage forward or reverse. Something else I didn't mention (1 problem at a time), but may be related. When I try to engage the mower, it does not engage, and it blows the 20 amp fuse in the engine compartment.

Dave

I would check the wiring from the safety switch just under the dash by the lever that engages the blades. If that is the only time it blows it is in that circuitIt also is related to the seat switch Check these out. It doesn't take long to change drive belt maybe for diy 2 hrs or less. Did you check the toe valve to make sure it is pushed all way in. Also look at it where connects to trans to make sure it is secure. If you need and I can do an attachment (not sure about this) I can draw a belt routing for you. Do you need instructions on changing belt? Post back if you do Good Luck

Doug, I did get it to move finally... the belt is still loose, so yes, if there's a way to send instructions for replacing the belt, I would appreciate it.

But, I'm not sure how to test the wiring for the safety switch. Visually it looks OK, so I'm not really what to check where, and how.

Dave

If you can disconnect the wire plug from switch you can put a jumper wire it the harness to by pass to check. I will get the instructions worked up and try to attach them to you tonight. Dou you have the belt routed correcty?

I never did remove dthe belts so I think they are OK. If you are not able to attach instructions, I could give you a call with my email address.

I'll trying jumping the switch.

Thanks again.

Since belt has not been removed, draw a diagram of the way it's routed. This will help you reinstall. Lower deck all the way or best remove it. Not hard. Remove belt guide at transmission. Remove deck belt at jacksheave pulley. Remove the 2 idlers mid way back where belt routes through. Remove bolt on jacksheave and drop it down. Remove drive belt an reinstall. May times the jacksheave will be difficult to remove. If this is the case, remove the bat wing (belt guide) from the engine plate and remove the belt this way. I say you can do this in less than 2 hours. Not hard to do just hard to get up underneath and getting hands in tight places. Good Luck and post back with problems and results

Since belt has not been removed, draw a diagram of the way it's routed. This will help you reinstall. Lower deck all the way or best remove it. Not hard. Remove belt guide at transmission. Remove deck belt at jacksheave pulley. Remove the 2 idlers mid way back where belt routes through. Remove bolt on jacksheave and drop it down. Remove drive belt an reinstall. May times the jacksheave will be difficult to remove. If this is the case, remove the bat wing (belt guide) from the engine plate and remove the belt this way. I say you can do this in less than 2 hours. Not hard to do just hard to get up underneath and getting hands in tight places. Good Luck and post back with problems and results

My L120 John Deere makes a clunking noise when in forward gears and will not go forward but will go backwards and if I jack up the back and put in forward it works fine. There was no warning.

While this is a very old thread; maybe I can help someone else.
All the answers could be correct, and it won’t hurt to try the suggestions.
However; The transaxle used in the L120 and at least one sears model is junk.
They are okay for very light use. But if you pull the little trailer or have a large yard; they are likely to quit around 200 hours. If you do a internet search for the "L120 transaxle" You will see what I mean! I have talked with the JD dealer, They know about the problem. They sell no parts for this axle. They will replace the axle(about $900) but it too will fail in around 200 hours. The dealer suggested I drain the trans and replace it with 10-50 motor oil. I did this, it worked for about 50 hours. Then quit again. I opened the trans; it was a mess inside. I found bearing races broken and surfaces damaged. Junk! BUT I have a good engine, if I find something to put it in.
If you are lucky enough to have one of these and it hasn't gave you any trouble. Before you use it again. Change the trans oil. Get a good synthetic hydraulic oil. To do this you need to pull the transaxle. Then remove the vent plug (little black plastic plug on top) while you have it upside down install a drain plug. Be careful the bottom is very thin. But there are two bosses on the bottom, use the outside one. It is thicker there. Good Luck

I have a L120 lawn tractor put in new battery and engine will not turn over just a clicking sound, not real mechannically inclined but not sure what to do next is it the solenoid or stater, any help would be appreciated
John

Hi Doug,
I am having a problem climbing small hills, I have the LT120, I also think it the drive belt, is it possible for you to send me instruction on how to replace it. Thank you

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