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    kenkatadm's Avatar
    kenkatadm Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Aug 4, 2009, 09:57 AM
    19.5 IC Briggs & Stratton
    Won't turn over, removed pistons and it turns over, removed both compression rings and it still turned over.
    With the rings in the motor will not turn over.
    Can anyone help? I'm out of ideas.
    crigby's Avatar
    crigby Posts: 4,343, Reputation: 107
    Outdoor Power Equipment Expert
     
    #2

    Aug 4, 2009, 04:54 PM

    Hi,
    I have little idea what you are speaking about. Do have some number off the engine to identify what engine you are describing.
    Peace,
    Clarke
    kenkatadm's Avatar
    kenkatadm Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #3

    Aug 4, 2009, 05:05 PM
    Briggs & stratton I/c platimun, 19.5 P turbo cool
    Model 42E707
    42V
    Type 2631E1
    kenkatadm's Avatar
    kenkatadm Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #4

    Aug 4, 2009, 05:05 PM
    Briggs & stratton I/c platimun, 19.5 P turbo cool
    Model 42E707
    42V
    Type 2631E1
    crigby's Avatar
    crigby Posts: 4,343, Reputation: 107
    Outdoor Power Equipment Expert
     
    #5

    Aug 4, 2009, 06:45 PM

    Hi,
    Well, I now know that you have a 42 cu. in. opposed twin. I fail to see how you have removed the pistons and rings unless you have torn it down to smithereens. To take out the pistons, the engine must be torn apart and, after the rod caps are removed, the pistons must come out through the top of the cylinders.
    I can email you the parts breakdown and you can use the reference numbers to tell me which parts you are talking about; it is too large to attach here.
    Peace,
    Clarke
    kenkatadm's Avatar
    kenkatadm Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #6

    Aug 4, 2009, 07:55 PM
    The starter would not turn the motor over, so I pulled out the spark plugs, still would not turn over, thought maybe the bearings were bad, but they are just machine caps, then I removed bolt pistons, it turned freely then, re-installed pistons, does not turn freely enough, the motor still binds up with the pistons in...
    Removed the crank, rod caps spin freely on crank, but when I put everything back together, and get to the pistons, it binds up again.
    The rod caps and the piston head moves freely until re-installed back into the block, and then it binds up again.
    Thanks for your time
    Kenny
    kenkatadm's Avatar
    kenkatadm Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #7

    Aug 4, 2009, 07:55 PM
    The starter would not turn the motor over, so I pulled out the spark plugs, still would not turn over, thought maybe the bearings were bad, but they are just machine caps, then I removed bolt pistons, it turned freely then, re-installed pistons, does not turn freely enough, the motor still binds up with the pistons in...
    Removed the crank, rod caps spin freely on crank, but when I put everything back together, and get to the pistons, it binds up again.
    The rod caps and the piston head moves freely until re-installed back into the block, and then it binds up again.
    Thanks for your time
    Kenny
    crigby's Avatar
    crigby Posts: 4,343, Reputation: 107
    Outdoor Power Equipment Expert
     
    #8

    Aug 5, 2009, 11:56 AM
    Hi,
    I wish I could tell you where to find a service manual for free, but Briggs will have its legal dept. all over someone who posts even an out-of-date one (Tecumseh and Kohler will allow.)
    At any rate it matters which way the rods are turned and pistons are turned. When working on an engine that has already been run-in, the piston/rod combinations should always go back where they came from (an absolute MUST with Yanmars, etc.) If you have not removed the pistons from the rods, even better, for the same reason. The pistons generally have a mark on them on their crown that is positioned toward the flywheel. If the rods have never left the pistons, that should position them correctly. If they have, and have a cut-out in the cap, I believe it goes toward the flywheel (I am going from "memory" here as it has been some time since I have even short blocked one of these much less had one "down" so I could remember incorrectly.) The cut-outs in some rod caps are for clearance with lobes of the camshaft and are common on a few brands and models. No way to tell where each came from, up to the mechanic to keep track.
    I will attach the spec sheet in pdf, do not fear that it does not have your exact number there; all are three of the important ones are the same for 40, 42 and 46 cu. in. models.
    Peace,
    Clarke
    Attached Images
  1. File Type: pdf specs.pdf (11.3 KB, 233 views)

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