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mnvron · May 13, 2005, 12:16 PM

Hello. This is my first post here and I'd appreciate any help you can provide. I have a tiled shower on a concrete slab. The drain is cast iron... sort of a bowl-shaped 3" dia. opening with a lead seal to a 2"-2 1/4" cast iron pipe. In removing the old "Premier" pull-up drain stopper, the brass screws sheared off where they enter the ears on the cast iron "bowl". I broke a drill bit off in one trying to drill a hole for an easy-out. I broke the easy-out off in the other one :mad: ... So far not doin' so good! I did all of this at the end of the remodel so I've already built a new glass block wall, tiled the other three, and don't want to jackhammer the floor up. What is the best way to get this "bowl" piece out so I can install a new drain? Thanks in advance.

speedball1 · May 13, 2005, 02:57 PM

Originally Posted by mnvron

Hello. This is my first post here and I'd appreciate any help you can provide. I have a tiled shower on a concrete slab. The drain is cast iron...sort of a bowl-shaped 3" dia. opening with a lead seal to a 2"-2 1/4" cast iron pipe. In removing the old "Premier" pull-up drain stopper, the brass screws sheared off where they enter the ears on the cast iron "bowl". I broke a drill bit off in one trying to drill a hole for an easy-out. I broke the easy-out off in the other one :mad: ... So far not doin' so good! I did all of this at the end of the remodel so I've already built a new glass block wall, tiled the other three, and don't want to jackhammer the floor up. What is the best way to get this "bowl" piece out so I can install a new drain? Thanks in advance.

You don't need a jack hammer to remove a cast iron drain. Cast iron's brittle and will break out easily using a regular hammer. After removing the cast iron drain you can take a chisel and cut the lead ring. You may now replace with another cast iron drain with a poured lead and okum joint or if you wish more options click on this link. http://www.plumbrite.com/?page=faqs&...357b13eaa0aea5

Good luck Tom

mnvron · May 13, 2005, 06:25 PM

Thanks for the fast reply Tom. Since the drain pipe that the cast iron drain is attached to also appears to be cast iron, are there any special precautions I need to take or techniques to use to prevent accidentally breaking the pipe when I start whacking the drain with a hammer to break it up? Also, the link you sent for the Wingtite drain indicates that it is not compatible with tile floored showers. I probably should have mentioned that my shower floor is tile over concrete. Thanks again for the speedy response.
Matt

speedball1 · May 13, 2005, 09:10 PM

Originally Posted by mnvron

Thanks for the fast reply Tom. Since the drain pipe that the cast iron drain is attached to also appears to be cast iron, are there any special precautions I need to take or techniques to use to prevent accidentally breaking the pipe when I start whacking the drain with a hammer to break it up? Also, the link you sent for the Wingtite drain indicates that it is not compatible with tile floored showers. I probably should have mentioned that my shower floor is tile over concrete. Thanks again for the speedy response.
Matt

OK, have you considered drilling and tapping new bolt holes? That would be the best way to go for you. Let me know. Tom

mnvron · May 14, 2005, 10:19 AM

Tom,
I was going to try and drill and tap new holes, but the tabs on the inside diameter of the drain are not large enough for me to be able to move the holes over without the bit wandering into the original hole. Can I heat the lead seal with a torch to soften it and then pull the drain off the drain pipe? My big concern is that I might shatter the cast iron pipe if I try to break up the drain with a hammer. Can I post photos to this forum? I took several pictures of it yesterday but didn't see a link to post photos of the project.

speedball1 · May 14, 2005, 12:31 PM

Originally Posted by mnvron

Tom,
I was going to try and drill and tap new holes, but the tabs on the inside diameter of the drain are not large enough for me to be able to move the holes over without the bit wandering into the original hole. Can I heat the lead seal with a torch to soften it and then pull the drain off of the drain pipe? My big concern is that I might shatter the cast iron pipe if I try to break up the drain with a hammer. Can I post photos to this forum? I took several pictures of it yesterday but didn't see a link to post photos of the project.

Hey Matt,

There's a way to post pictures on here but dammed if I know how to do it.
Take a propane torch with a medium tip and run round and round the lead joint until the lead begins to soften. Now begain to pry up on the cast iron drain body. This could be a two man job but once you get the drain to wiggle the hardest part is done. Just work it on up. Good luck, Tom

mnvron · May 14, 2005, 06:50 PM

Great. Thanks for your time and expertise Tom! I will give it a try in the next couple of days. With any luck you won't see a post on this forum next week reading "Does anyone know how to repair fire damage?" :D

I really appreciate the advise.

BMac8 · Sep 22, 2010, 05:57 PM

Wingtite makes a top-down drain that has side thingies--it's 65 bucks... I am considering this... I have the same problem as above... only I had a contractor who never put the threaded nut underneath... I am probably going with the Wingtite piece. Check it out. Hope this helps. I'm a layman, not a plumber.--BMac