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jstrike · May 25, 2007, 11:40 AM

I have to replace a shower fixture in the bathroom wall. I've done some sweating before with decent results but this is the first time that I'd be doing it in a plaster & lathe wall. I'm not too wild about burning my house down so I'm looking for an alternative. I don't want to try the paste junk, I've never heard anything good about that stuff. I heard somewhere about a tool that crimps a ring around the pipe joint and eliminates the need to sweat it. This sounds like a great solution but has anyone heard about this? How good does it work? How about places to rent/buy the tool?

Thanks.

Stratmando · May 25, 2007, 12:08 PM

Wouldn't use crimp, Maybe CPVC, CPVC Pipe and CPVC glue

jstrike · May 25, 2007, 12:19 PM

Can I go from copper to CPVC?

iamgrowler · May 25, 2007, 02:52 PM

Originally Posted by jstrike

I have to replace a shower fixture in the bathroom wall. I've done some sweating before with decent results but this is the first time that I'd be doing it in a plaster & lathe wall. I'm not too wild about burning my house down so I'm looking for an alternative. I don't want to try the paste junk, I've never heard anything good about that stuff. I heard somewhere about a tool that crimps a ring around the pipe joint and eliminates the need to sweat it. This sounds like a great solution but has anyone heard about this? How good does it work? How about places to rent/buy the tool?

Thanks.

The Ridgid crimping tool uses proprietary fittings and it wouldn't be cost effective to buy one.

I could be wrong, but I do not believe they are available to rent.

If you already have copper plumbed to the existing shower valve, I'd suggest you go with the Cash Acme Shark Bite fittings.

I'm not a big fan of them myself, but others have used them with good results.

Stratmando · May 26, 2007, 06:30 AM

Yes you can go from copper to CPVS, Have to sweat them on, from there its glue all the way. Don't forget the cleaner. Screw the CPVC into the sweated connector.

speedball1 · May 26, 2007, 07:00 AM

Originally Posted by Stratmando

Yes you can go from copper to CPVS, Have to sweat them on, from there its glue all the way. Don't forget the cleaner. Screw the CPVC into the sweated connector.

Let me add a bit here. The CPCV "cleaner" is called primer. If you go with a,(non-solder) Sharkbite coupling a 3/4 X 1/2" reducing coupling,(see image) should get you by since the OD on copper 1/2"= 5/8ths and the OD on 1/2" CPVC=7/8ths. Don't forget to Teflon Tape the threads. Good luck, Tom

jstrike · May 28, 2007, 09:09 PM

Thanks for the info!

Stratmando · May 29, 2007, 05:53 AM

They make CPVC for exact connection sizes, I have never seen Sharkbite, Doesn't
Mean they are not better or do not work. See what's in your area.
Don't know of any problems with CPVC.
Does Sharkbite work with CPVC?

speedball1 · May 29, 2007, 07:19 AM

Originally Posted by Stratmando

They make CPVC fo exact connection sizes, I have never seen Sharkbite, Doesn't
mean they are not better or do not work. See whats in your area.
Don't know of any problems with CPVC.
Does Sharkbite work with CPVC?

Sharkbite will work with plastic including Pex Systems. To find out more about
Sharkbite fittings click on; Cash Acme - Products - SharkBite® Connection System
Regards, Tom

labman · May 29, 2007, 10:08 AM

I think what I used was another brand called Shark Tooth. Slick, slick, slick. Expensive though, $9 for a 3/4'' tee at a plumbing supply. Maybe less at Ace Hardware. Very DIY friendly. Just make sure there are no burrs on the pipe and slide it into the fitting, done.

jstrike · May 29, 2007, 01:35 PM

Based on what I read on the Sharkbite web site they looked very DIY friendly and frankly if I have to spend $9 for a connector it's far better than trying to sweat everything inside the wall. Now I just need to find where I can get them... this is a late fall/winter project so I have plenty of time.