[murley]

... now I'm wondering if there are any "tricks" you can let me in on with framing. I'm not sure if I should work on 16's, 20's, or 24's with my studs. What do you guys think? Trying to do what's smart financially and still going to stay intact.

[Flickit]

...now I'm wondering if there are any "tricks" you can let me in on with framing. I'm not sure if I should work on 16's, 20's, or 24's with my studs. What do you guys think? Trying to do what's smart financially and still going to stay intact.

... to stud spacing?

[labman]

If you are talking about the 2 x 4's for the plate, may as well stick to something cheap, maybe 12' Make the joint between 2 studs and nail a short length over it. When you put the second one on the top, stager the joints. 2 x 6 studs are often used too, but if you do, I would still stick to 16'' centers.

[murley]

... yeah I was talking about stud spacing. I know typical is 16" but I didn't know if going 20" would work but save some money. I wasn't sure if someone bumping the wall with bigger gaps would be an issue with cracking the sheetrock.

[Flickit]

...yeah I was talking about stud spacing. I know typical is 16" but I didn't know if going 20" would work but save some money. I wasn't sure if someone bumping the wall with bigger gaps would be an issue with cracking the sheetrock.

... even use 20" spacing as 24" is more common and often used where strength and stability is not of upmost importance. Drywall cracking is not an issue unless you have some pretty wild parties or folks who like to take a swing at walls. Recommend using 1/2" thick drywall for walls even when code allows for 3/8". Use 3/8" for ceilings when code allows... easier to hang and costs less.

[labman]

I am not up on codes, but I think you must use 16'' centers if you use 2 x 4's. 24'' is acceptable with 2 x 6's. 20'' would be a pain since everything comes 48'' wide. In the long run, life is simpler if you use 16'' centers.

Code used to require 5/8'' drywallon ceilings. Likely still a good idea in case of fire.

[murley]

... and with the floor being a non-level poured floor, I decided to piece it together not build the frame and push it up. So, I doubled studs on the header because I'm going to have to drop my ceiling anyway. Mounted vertical studs to that at 16"s. Now I'm wondering what to do next. The floor isn't flat at the wall so the footer stud doesn't lay level. Should I nail that to the floor first and then screw the vertical studs to it then or mount the vertical's to it first and chance pulling them apart when I nail down the footer?

This is really one of the only time I'll bug you guys over the next week because the framing isn't that tuff, really.

Thanks guys!

[Flickit]

... a floor joist being nearby this end of the wall point that you can nail/screw into for a more secure footer? You answered your own question by pointing out you did not want the studs to fall out. If you have a table saw with a large diameter blade you could make a shim from a 2x4 long enough to take up the slack at the end. This is more work but then you can frame the wall beforehand and you also don't risk any problems with the footer giving away from the floor over time.

BTW... checked building code and 24" centers are OK for a wall with a ceiling and a roof using 2 x 4's (additional floor above requires 16" o.c.) up to 10' heighth. I would stick with Labman’s advise, though.

[labman]

You can bend 2 x 4's, but you can't stretch them. If you already have the vertical studs in place, you have no choice but to fasten the footer one directly to them. You can buy 2 x 4 joist hangers, which might be a good way to hold them. You may want to do some measuring and nail shims or spacers to the floor leaving just room for the footer. Then you can nail it to the spacers.