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    reds's Avatar
    reds Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Apr 23, 2005, 10:25 AM
    Toilet flange
    I am in the process of re-settin my toilet, It is located in the basement and the toilet flange sits on top of the ceramic tile. It is not flush with the tile. I have reset the toilet three times using various thickness of wax. These only last so long. I have purchased a wax free bowl gasket from Fluidmaster. I plan to istall it and possibly use a toilet spacer if needed to keep the bowl from rocking. Is this the correct install option? Any suggestions?
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #2

    Apr 23, 2005, 11:09 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by reds
    I am in the process of re-settin my toilet, It is located in the basement and the toilet flange sits on top of the ceramic tile. It is not flush with the tile. I have reset the toilet three times using various thickness of wax. These only last so long. I have purchased a wax free bowl gasket from Fluidmaster. I plan to istall it and possibly use a toilet spacer if needed to keep the bowl from rocking. Is this the correct install option? Any suggestions?


    By "not flush with the tile" is it above or below the tile? How far above or below? What material's the pipe and flange? Why should the bowl rock and need shimming? Why do the wax rings not last? Is it because the bowl rocks breaking contact?
    cjbart's Avatar
    cjbart Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Apr 24, 2005, 07:41 AM
    Similar problem but with recessed flange
    My toilet is located in the basement. The flange sits ON the concrete. I have put a sub floor in and tiled such that the floor is now approximately 3/4" above the top plane of the flange. I believe the flange is a 4x3 since that is what I see in the rest of the house, piping I believe is 3" Genova DWV. My first reaction to this was to simply install a Fluid master No-Seep No. 10 with 3-1/2" bolts, but after reading some postings I'm not sure. My second thought was to simply use Fluidmaster's Wax-Free Toilet Installation kit (7500), I have used this kit one other time and has worked well to date but the flange was at normal height, i.e. sittng on the floor. I have also looked at flange extenders from PlumBest, C88-600, C88-500, and C88-001. I don't think I can rip and replace since everything is in the concrete. Any suggestions? As stated the floor is now ~3/4" above the top plane of the flange or ~1-1/4" (1/2" flange thickness) above the original floor surface.

    Thank you in advance,
    Craig.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #4

    Apr 24, 2005, 08:46 AM
    Recessed Toilet Flange
    Quote Originally Posted by cjbart
    My toilet is located in the basement. The flange sits ON the concrete. I have put a sub floor in and tiled such that the floor is now approximately 3/4" above the top plane of the flange. I believe the flange is a 4x3 since that is what I see in the rest of the house, piping I believe is 3" Genova DWV. My first reaction to this was to simply install a Fluid master No-Seep No. 10 with 3-1/2" bolts, but after reading some postings I'm not sure. My second thought was to simply use Fluidmaster's Wax-Free Toilet Installation kit (7500), I have used this kit one other time and has worked well to date but the flange was at normal height, i.e. sittng on the floor. I have also looked at flange extenders from PlumBest, C88-600, C88-500, and C88-001. I don't think I can rip and replace since everything is in the concrete. Any suggestions? As stated the floor is now ~3/4" above the top plane of the flange or ~1-1/4" (1/2" flange thickness) above the original floor surface.

    Thank you in advance,
    Craig.
    Red and Craig,

    I might have the answer to both of your problems. Click on;
    http://www.plumbest.com/searchengine...atalog/e93.htm

    Check out the "deep flanges" Good luck Tom
    cjbart's Avatar
    cjbart Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Apr 24, 2005, 08:52 AM
    Thank you.

    Looks like with these long barrel flanges, I can remove the knock-out and then "simply" insert, correct?

    Pardon my ignorance, but what is "barrel" size? I'm guessing I will need the 4".
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #6

    Apr 24, 2005, 09:18 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by cjbart
    Thank you.

    Looks like with these long barrel flanges, I can remove the knock-out and then "simply" insert, correct? CORRECT!

    Pardon my ignorance, but what is "barrel" size? I'm guessing I will need the 4".
    The "barrel" is simply the throat that extends down from the flange. Take your measure from the inside diameter of the pipe.

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