Ask Experts Questions for FREE Help !
Ask
    Lee999's Avatar
    Lee999 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Mar 19, 2005, 06:34 PM
    New construction
    I plan to have a house built, and circumstances (financial and otherwise)
    Necessitate that I assume some of the construction chores such as plumbing,
    Electrical, floor plan design, and contracting. I'm probably way over my
    Head on the plumbing task because I've had very little experience. The house
    Will be on a slab foundation and I'm considering using under slab PEX tubing
    Rather than copper due to corrosive soil conditions. I'll use above slab
    Distribution manifolds (hot & cold) to route under slab PEX lines to remote
    Areas and connect them to mini-cpvc manifolds for cpvc linkage to fixtures in
    Each respective remote area. My first pass to the DWV system is pictured
    In the link below.
    The 4" waste line will slope @ 1/4" per ft for about 30' for a 7.5" drop. The
    upper end of the 4" main will have to start about 6" low to accommodate
    The kitchen sink slope span.
    I'm sure its amateurish and inconsistent with professional methods,
    But I would like to know if there are any glaring red flag issues ?
    Any comments on the supply and DWV system would be appreciated.
    (Note : I'm in a remote area and no local plumbings are in force)


    Attached Images
     
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #2

    Mar 19, 2005, 07:17 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by Lee999
    I plan to have a house built, and circumstances (financial and otherwise)
    necessitate that I assume some of the construction chores such as plumbing,
    electrical, floor plan design, and contracting. I'm probably way over my
    head on the plumbing task because I've had very little experience. The house
    will be on a slab foundation and I'm considering using under slab PEX tubing
    rather than copper due to corrosive soil conditions. I'll use above slab
    distribution manifolds (hot & cold) to route under slab PEX lines to remote
    areas and connect them to mini-cpvc manifolds for cpvc linkage to fixtures in
    each respective remote area. My first pass to the DWV system is pictured
    in the link below.
    The 4" waste line will slope @ 1/4" per ft for about 30' for a 7.5" drop. The
    upper end of the 4" main will have to start about 6" low to accommodate
    the kitchen sink slope span.
    I'm sure its amateurish and inconsistent with professional methods,
    but I would like to know if there are any glaring red flag issues ?
    Any comments on the supply and DWV system would be appreciated.
    (Note : I'm in a remote area and no local plumbings are in force)



    If elevation will be a problem you may reduce the slope of the 4" main to 1/8" per foot. Move the main over so it doesn't run directly under the toilets and showers and connect from the side. You will save at least 8 to10 inches of elevation if you do. Increase the kitchen sink drain to two inches, no 1 1/2 " under the floor. `1 1/2" is asking for trouble. On the shower next to the laundry room (5) move the vent from downstream of the shower to the right hand wall so it ties in upstream from the shower drain. You can not discharge a major fixture past a unvented minor one and that's what you're doing in the present layout. Same for shower (6). Move the vent so it's upstream from the drain.
    Increase the lavatory drains to 2". What is #4 fixture and why do you have two vents side by side when you're close enough to wet vent (4) to #(3) drain? More questions? I'm as close as a click. Regards, Tom
    Lee999's Avatar
    Lee999 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #3

    Mar 19, 2005, 09:36 PM
    Corrections made
    Thanks for your input. I made the changes to the drawing as shown
    Below. Fixture #4 is a utility sink. I dropped the local vent and now
    Show the drain connecting with the lavatory drain line. Have I corrected
    The problems ? One other question - drain and vent pipes that run vertically
    In exterior walls through the foundation slab are over the slab footing. How
    Are these pipes handled with regard to the 12 to 18 inch deep footing ?
    Thanks, Lee

    Attached Images
     
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #4

    Mar 20, 2005, 07:28 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by Lee999
    Thanks for your input. I made the changes to the drawing as shown
    below. Fixture #4 is a utility sink. I dropped the local vent and now
    show the drain connecting with the lavatory drain line. Have I corrected
    the problems ? One other question - drain and vent pipes that run vertically
    in exterior walls through the foundation slab are over the slab footing. How
    are these pipes handled with regard to the 12 to 18 inch deep footing ?
    Thanks, Lee

    Good morning Lee, The drainage looks a lot better. Just one thing. How far is it from the washer trap,(2) to the lavatory vent (3)? On a 2" line you are allowed a 5' line between trap and vent. Anything over that and you have built youself a "S" trap which is outlawed in all codes.
    The exterior vents are a different story. When we rough a slab there are usually two blocks laid over the poured foundation before the rough goes in and the slab's poured.. if we have exterior vents we just break out the block and put the vent in the wall that way. When the slab's poured the vent's are up through the slab and inside the wall. If the block masons leave you two blocks over the poured foundation you should have no problem with elevation. To figure your developed length take the 36 foot length of the main and add the distance from the kitchen sink to where it ties to the main. that will be your developed length. I always add 6" to my drop when I figure slope just in case I make a mistake. Sort of a safety net. I've seen plumbers that started their rough from the low end and by the time they've reached the furthest fixture they're up out of the slab. Always start your rough from the furthest fixture, give yourself 6 inches of "wiggle room" and you're going to be fine. Cheers, Tom

Not your question? Ask your question View similar questions

 

Question Tools Search this Question
Search this Question:

Advanced Search

Add your answer here.


Check out some similar questions!

OSB used in construction [ 8 Answers ]

Can I use this type of board for walls and roof and floors for my shed if I intend to cover the exterior in sheetmetal?. if so, should I paint all of the OS.. just in case it rains while I'm building?. this is going to be a 1 man job so its going to take me awhile.. thanks for any help

Cladogram construction [ 1 Answers ]

Kindly guide me to the process of cladogram construction through an appropriate software avalilable on line. I am using morphological data for such analysis and could not find any suitable software. Your immediate help will be highly appreciated. Thank you

New construction [ 1 Answers ]

We are building a new townhouse in Virginia. Would you recommend copper or pvc piping throughout the home and why. Thank you...

New tub old construction [ 1 Answers ]

I am intending to install a new tub in my downstairs bath. It has a large linen closet that we do not use and would like to put the tub there. I am curious if anyone has ideas as to how to plumb this. I have my own, however I am not a plumber and would like to see how you guys might go about it....

Construction [ 1 Answers ]

How much does it cost to build a parliament in a developing country?


View more questions Search