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    jrh9er's Avatar
    jrh9er Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #1

    Mar 14, 2005, 01:15 PM
    Tub Drain Leak
    Hello,
    I hope my problem is a simple one... Our house was built in 1978-79, although we have only lived there for 2 1/2 years. About a month ago, water started dripping through our ceiling underneath our tub. I cut out the ceiling (that was the only option to access) and found that the leak was coming out of the top of the coupler between the tee and the trap. The drain/overflow/tee is all plastic (grey in color). I am thinking that after 26 years, there is more to this than just tightening the coupler. Are neoprene rings typically found in these connections? Also, what would be the proper way to seal up the connections (silicone, putty, etc.)? Thanks in advance for your advice!
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
    		  
    #2

    Mar 14, 2005, 01:24 PM
    Tub Drain Leak
    Quote Originally Posted by jrh9er
    Hello,
    I hope my problem is a simple one... Our house was built in 1978-79, although we have only lived there for 2 1/2 years. About a month ago, water started dripping through our ceiling underneath our tub. I cut out the ceiling (that was the only option to access) and found that the leak was coming out of the top of the coupler between the tee and the trap. The drain/overflow/tee is all plastic (grey in color). I am thinking that after 26 years, there is more to this than just tightening the coupler. Are neoprene rings typically found in these connections? Also, what would be the proper way to seal up the connections (silicone, putty, etc.)? Thanks in advance for your advice!
    That "coupler" is called a compression fitting. I assume you've already attempted to tighten the compression nut and tested agan. That usually fixes the problem. Yes there is a gasket inside the compression nut that may be bad. Unscrew the compression nut and check the washer. If it's bad then replace it but first tighten the nut and see if that don't fix the problem. Cheers, Tom
    darrel1953's Avatar
    darrel1953 Posts: 86, Reputation: 12
    Junior Member
    		  
    #3

    Mar 22, 2005, 12:07 AM
    60 lb. torque wrench
    There is a special wrench for tightening no hub bands. It is called a no hub torque wrench. You can get them at a plumbing wholesale house or specialty plumbing retail shop. You should really replace that coupling if you can. The no hub torque wrench looks like a tee and works like a ratchet. I always tighten the fitting until the wrench clicks and then a 1/4 turn more. They work well. Otherwise you never know if you tightened it enough or too much.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
    		  
    #4

    Mar 22, 2005, 06:46 PM
    Torque Wrench?
    Quote Originally Posted by darrel1953
    There is a special wrench for tightening no hub bands. It is called a no hub torque wrench. You can get them at a plumbing wholesale house or specialty plumbing retail shop. You should really replace that coupling if you can. The no hub torque wrench looks like a tee and works like a ratchet. I always tighten the fitting until the wrench clicks and then a 1/4 turn more. They work well. Otherwise you never know if you tightened it enough or too much.
    =

    Darrel, Am I missing something here? Where did No-Hub bands come from?
    The trap raiser connects to the tail piece with a compression fitting not a No-Hub coupling. However you did a great job on describing a No-Hub wrench. Back in the 80's that what we useds in our condos. Cheers, Tom
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