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    ginger62's Avatar
    ginger62 Posts: 21, Reputation: 1
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    #21

    Jul 28, 2014, 10:28 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by bitters View Post
    Relay K1 or K2 could be bad. Might have been damaged when your board burned up.
    Is there a way to test that. I am hoping it wasn't the motor.
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    #22

    Jul 28, 2014, 11:44 AM
    I think your motor is OK. The best way to test them is to OHM out the coils. Do you have a voltmeter?
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    #23

    Jul 28, 2014, 11:51 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by bitters View Post
    I think your motor is OK. The best way to test them is to OHM out the coils. Do you have a voltmeter?
    Yes got one, would the k1 k2 be on the actual control board, looking at the diagram that's what it looks like.
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    #24

    Jul 29, 2014, 10:16 AM
    I did do some more searching and found the original wire diagram for your unit. Turns out your furnace was a heat only unit. Probably the AC was added later, so they had to install the board. I will get back to you in a few hours.
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    #25

    Jul 29, 2014, 10:31 AM
    Thank you again for all the help.
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    #26

    Jul 29, 2014, 12:47 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by ginger62 View Post
    Thank you again for all the help.
    Make sure the purple wire on the board is connected to the high terminal. Then set the stat to cool and the fan to auto. With your meter check C to G and C to Y. Should be 24V on both. If you have 24V on Y and 0 V on G, then it could be a stat problem. To test that, turn the power off to the furnace, remove stat to expose the wires. Remove the R, G and Y wires and twist them together. Turn the power back on. The blower should run on high speed. If it starts then the fan switch in the stat is bad.
    Let me know.
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    #27

    Jul 29, 2014, 11:01 PM
    OK purple wire was correct. Tested the terminals on the control board and it showed continuty, but didn't register any volts. So I took the wires off the stat and left the white hooked up, stat on auto and cool, turned the power back on and nothing... the blower still wouldn't come on at all. Unless I turn the switch in the inside unit on.

    INSIDE UNIT INCLUDING BURNT BOARD

    http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/...ps24451947.jpg


    OUTSIDE UNIT
    http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/...psc3f7063c.jpg
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    #28

    Jul 30, 2014, 09:50 AM
    I'm a little confused, did you twist the blue, green and yellow wires together?
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    #29

    Jul 30, 2014, 11:55 AM
    Yes, I took the tstat wires blue green and yellow and twisted them together, left the white hooked up on the tstat put it back on the wall, turned the power back on, and nothing. Was I supposed to do it on the wires coming out the wall by the ac that go to the terminal?
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    #30

    Jul 30, 2014, 12:11 PM
    You did it right, except for putting the stat back on. Leave the stat off as you might short out the wires.
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    #31

    Jul 30, 2014, 12:50 PM
    Ok I did it with the stat off first, didn't do anything so I thought maybe I was supposed to do it wioth it on and of course... Crickets.. lol
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    #32

    Jul 30, 2014, 01:34 PM
    Crickets... Thats not good lol. OK, one more test, turn everything on and check R to C on the board, with your meter. Should have mentioned this sooner, make sure the door safety switch is pushed in when testing the board.
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    #33

    Jul 30, 2014, 02:55 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by bitters View Post
    Crickets... Thats not good lol. OK, one more test, turn everything on and check R to C on the board, with your meter. Should have mentioned this sooner, make sure the door safety switch is pushed in when testing the board.
    Where is the safety switch?
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    #34

    Jul 30, 2014, 04:36 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by ginger62 View Post
    Where is the safety switch?
    Ginger. Sometimes I forget that I am talking to a homeowner, not a AC tech, my bad. The diagram doesn't show a safety switch, but I bet there is one in there. Look around the edge of the blower compartment. The switch will probably be black. How it works is when you take the blower panel off the switch pops open and kills the power. Wrap it with electrical tape to hold it closed. Be sure and turn the power off to the furnace while doing this. Then turn the power back on.
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    #35

    Aug 11, 2014, 09:26 PM
    Well I haven't gotten it fixed it yet, decided to replace the capacitor, and the motor. The guy at the place I bought the motor from wrote down how I should hook up the wires to the new motor compared to the old motor, Did that and nothing at all. Im wondering did he tell me wrong? Im going to post a picture of new wires verses old wires. http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m...s6625816e.jpeg

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