[chadamataz]

After gutting and remodeling my guest bath I went to install a new tub drain though an access panel I have to the pit in my slab. Reading through the posts I think this is called the dap out.

My new tub drain kit came with new pipes so when I went to unscrew the top collar on my dap out pipe, the entire pipe all the way into the ground came off. After vacumming surrounding debis I realized threads were not what was holding this joint together.

The problem is the connection where it separated. Doesn't look up to code. The piece that came off appears to be a 2" OD cast coupler (didn't measure the ID) with threads on the inside. This was shoved into a 2" ID pipe flush with the dap out pit. The coupler appeared to only go about 1/2" at most into the hole in the bottom of the dap out. Corrosion on the pipe in the ground keeps me from telling if it has threads on the outside or inside. Not sure how this kept from flooding the dap out pit since being built in '64.

I'm in Southern CA. Any thoughts on how to bring this up to code?

Thank you so very much for any help you can provide.

[speedball1]

After gutting and remodeling my guest bath I went to install a new tub drain though an access panel I have to the pit in my slab. Reading through the posts I think this is called the dap out.

My new tub drain kit came with new pipes so when i went to unscrew the top collar on my dap out pipe, the entire pipe all the way into the ground came off. After vacumming surrounding debis I realized threads were not what was holding this joint together.

The problem is the connection where it separated. Doesn't look up to code. The piece that came off appears to be a 2" OD cast coupler (didn't measure the ID) with threads on the inside. This was shoved into a 2" ID pipe flush with the dap out pit. The coupler appeared to only go about 1/2" at most into the hole in the bottom of the dap out. Corrosion on the pipe in the ground keeps me from telling if it has threads on the outside or inside. Not sure how this kept from flooding the dap out pit since being built in '64.

I'm in Southern CA. Any thoughts on how to bring this up to code?

Thank you so very much for any help you can provide.

Hey Chad,
I can not only tell you what you're into but I can walk you otta it!
When it was new it was a 2" cast iron"P" trap with a 1 1/2" female thread in its face. A 1 1/2" galvanized nipple screwed into the trap and this is what connects the trap to the tub. Do this, First clear out the hole and the face of the trap. The galvanized nipple has broke off and the threads are still in the trap. they have to come out. Tale a small sharp chisel and GENTLY begain to work the chisel under the thread. When you get under the thread start to pry it out. Once out install a 1 1/2" PVC mail adapter in the face and glue in a piece of 1 1/2" of PVC pipe with a 1 1/2" compression fitting cemented in the top. You are now ready to trim the tub with the tub shoe, drain and tub waste and overflow and connect your tub to drainage. Good luck, Tom

[chadamataz]

Tom, thank you ever so much for the help! You have no idea how much I thought this would be above my ability. Your description looks straightforward so I'll give it a try and post any issues.

Thanks again!
Chad :)

[chadamataz]

So as you recommended I removed what I thought was the threads from an old broken off pipe and it turned out to be some type of soft lead or solder collar on the inside of the pipe. It was 1/2" thick and not threaded. After removing it I'm now left with the top of the P trap which has a 3" ID and no threads.

I can't find anything with a 3" OD to fit inside of this, let alone reduce it down to 1 3/8" to connect with the outlet from the tub.

What now? I now believe that part shouldn't of been removed.

[speedball1]

So as you recommended I removed what I thought was the threads from an old broken off pipe and it turned out to be some type of soft lead or solder collar on the inside of the pipe. It was 1/2" thick and not threaded. After removing it I'm now left with the top of the P trap which has a 3" ID and no threads.

I can't find anything with a 3" OD to fit inside of this, let alone reduce it down to 1 3/8" to connect with the outlet from the tub.

What now? I now believe that part shouldn't of been removed.

Is this a hub? We don't use 3" "P" traps on bath tubs. On some older installations a 2" cast iron "P" trap with a hub instead of a threaded boss was installed. A 2" X1 1/2" cast iron to female threaded adapter or A piece of threaded galvanized iron pipe or was then leaded in the hub and a 1 1/2" female threaded compression fitting then connected the tail piece from the tub waste and overflow. The lead "collar" you pulled out sounds like the poured lead joint. It would help if you could send me a picture if the trap.
My E-mail addy is [email protected] Head it up PLUMBING. Don't fret I don't think you've done anything wrong. The lead joint would have had to come out any how. You may have to get a plumber to pour and caulk a new lead and okum joint but I don't think that you've tore anything up. Regards, Tom

[chadamataz]

2 photos sent to your address per your request. Thank you again for your fantastic help!
Chad

[speedball1]

2 photos sent to your address per your request. Thank you again for your fantastic help!
Chad

What you have in the ground is a 2" cast Iron "P" trap with a 2.94" ID hub.
I was correct when I guessed it was a poured joint with a 1 1/2" galvanized nipple caulked in to it. The solution to your problem is to caulk a threaded 1 1/2" galvanized nipple long enough to extend up over where the tailpiece from the will fit inside the nipple into the hub, or you could caulk in a 2" cast iron by 1 1/2" threaded adapter into the hub and just screw in the nipple, Then screw a 1 1/2 FIP,(female Iron pipe size) X 1 1/2" compression fitting on the nipple and set the tail piece inside. Tighten the compression fitting and you're back in business. Good luck, Tom