[triptrop]

I have 2 questions regarding my rough in for the tub in my unfinished basement. My first question regards the p-trap for the tub. This house was built in 2001. Is it common for the p-trap to be put in when they do the rough-in? I don't know whether to add the p-trap. A few pictures:

1st is a "wide angle" picture of the area.


2nd pic is to me what indicates where the tub pipe leades to the vent stack:


The top of the pipe is about 8-9 inches from the top of the floor, if that makes any difference? Does anybody know if the P-trap is likely already there? And what's the best method for me to determine for sure (short of calling a plumber!)

2nd question is regarding the amount of space between the rough-in and where the wall is going to be. Here's an image to illustrate:



My left foot is where the wall will be. The rough in is about 22 inches from my foot. According to the directions of the tub I bought, the drain is 18 inches from the wall. I do not have the tub yet, it's on order. Am I going to have to extend the rough-in, do you think? If so, is there anything I should be concerned about? The rough in is surrounded by 2x4s, and, from what I can feel, behind the 2x4 is some kind of foam insulation(?)...

Any comments are greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
jason.

[speedball1]

Hi Jason,
The plumber left the tub drain capped off you will have to saw off the hard cap and install a trap and stub up.
What you have there is the tub dapout. This is boxed out by the cement men to accommodate connecting the tub to the trap.
As a rule we install the trap and stub up but when we leave a rough in for a future bathroom group we terminate the drains with a hard cap and not a test cap.
Most times the vent also serves to pick up the lavatory. Has it been run to the roof or revented back yet? If not then you must run it through the roof line, revent back in the attic or revent to a existing vent at least 6" over the flood rim of the highest fixture on that vent. (Confused yet?)
Before you install the trap get the rough in dimensions for the tub, at 18" from the wall that puts the tub 3 feet wide and that's special order.
When we position the trap and stup-up it centers 1 5/8" off the front wall and 15 1/2 off the side wall. The standard width for a tub is betwen 30 and 32 inches. This will be a PVC trap that can be adjusted by positioning the "J" bend part of trap. More questions? Click on back. Tom

[triptrop]

OK, I am clicking on back. I think I understood about the p-trap solution. That shouldn't be a problem.

Regarding the placement and width of the tub, when I stated the drain needs to be 18" from the wall, I meant that the head wall, not the side wall. IE, in the 3rd picture above, my foot is where the wall will be that will have the faucet, overflow drain, shower head, etc. But that is 22" from the rough-in, meaning I either expand the rough-in or I move the tub down about 6" or so. Aesthetically, I'd rather move the rough-in, unless it's too difficult. Hence the question of issues with moving the rough-in.

Also, I'd been thinking for some time about how I would connect the overflow drain with the tub drain. I thought my rough-in would have to be opened up all the way to the front of the tub so the overflow drain could go down under the tub to connect to the tub drain. However, I had a revelation this morning (in the shower no less!), that why couldn't the overflow drain just travel the 1-2 feet to the left and connect to the vent stack that the tub drain connects to? I assume I'd have to have a p-trap on that drain as well, correct?

Sorry for my ignorance and thanks!

[speedball1]

OK, I am clicking on back. I think I understood about the p-trap solution. That shouldn't be a problem.

Regarding the placement and width of the tub, when I stated the drain needs to be 18" from the wall, I meant that the head wall, not the side wall. IE, in the 3rd picture above, my foot is where the wall will be that will have the faucet, overflow drain, shower head, etc. But that is 22" from the rough-in, meaning I either expand the rough-in or I move the tub down about 6" or so. Asthetically, I'd rather move the rough-in, unless it's too difficult. Hence the question of issues with moving the rough-in.

Also, I'd been thinking for some time about how I would connect the overflow drain with the tub drain. I thought my rough-in would have to be opened up all the way to the front of the tub so the overflow drain could go down under the tub to connect to the tub drain. However, I had a revelation this morning (in the shower no less!), that why couldn't the overflow drain just travel the 1-2 feet to the left and connect to the vent stack that the tub drain connects to? I assume I'd have to have a p-trap on that drain as well, correct?

Sorry for my ignorance and thanks!

Hi Jason,
Let me give you the average rough in dimensions again. When we position the trap and stup-up it centers 1 5/8" off the front wall and 15 1/2 off the side wall. 18" from the front wall? I don't think so. My addy is [email protected] How about you make me a drawing of the bathroom lay out, complete with measurements, because while you're the one apologizing for your "ignorance" I'm the guy that don't understand what you're trying to tell me.
Also there is only one way to connect the tub waste and overflow. Because it's a integral part of the tub shoe and drain your plan ain't never going to fly Wilber! I'm lost with the walls and the measurements you give me . Perhaps a drawing will straighten me out. Cheers, Tom

[speedball1]

Hi Jason,
Got your E-mail and attached drawing. I still have a problem understanding the proposed wall line. The toilet should measure 12" from the floor plate of the wall to the center of the toilet stub-up. The center of the stub up from the tub trap wants to be 1 5/8" from the floor plate and 15 1/2" from the wall for a normal rough in. I see your tub is 36 " wide. Most tubs are 31 ' wide so the measure from the wall would be 18" instead of 15 1/2".
The tub waste and overflow, pop-up stopper, tub shoe, brass tee, drain and drain all go together as a single unit. You would be complicating the hook-up and making it more difficult to install by doing it your way. And you're going to have to break up a lot of cement and use fittings to move the tub trap into position plus framing in a tub dap out.
Regards. Tom