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    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #21

    Aug 4, 2013, 12:15 AM
    You just go down to the "Answer this question" block and post your reply there.
    suziq11's Avatar
    suziq11 Posts: 44, Reputation: 1
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    #22

    Aug 4, 2013, 02:14 PM
    The only time I get the "answer this question block" is when I view my post. I have been clicking reply to your post, which then, only gives me the "quick answer" block, which is what I'm trying now. Is this the correct way? I sure wish this is correct cause "man"... this post has turned into a novel by now, and I bet the forum would make it a lot more clear for me if this was costing them "paper"
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #23

    Aug 4, 2013, 02:30 PM
    OK, you got it.

    Now isn't your post a lot easier to read?
    suziq11's Avatar
    suziq11 Posts: 44, Reputation: 1
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    #24

    Aug 4, 2013, 03:08 PM
    "YEAH!!!"... I am tickled... and feeling a bit "VICTORIOUS!" Donka.
    suziq11's Avatar
    suziq11 Posts: 44, Reputation: 1
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    #25

    Aug 5, 2013, 03:20 AM
    Ok harold... tonight I was going to attempt the water shut off thing, but I don't know if you realized that I had ( a few times) removed and reinstalled that stem without turning the water off, Every time! So if the washer was going to be blown out, it really already would have right? So, after I turned the water off, I attempted to get them out. I was finally able to. The cold water one also had a washer (the kind with a hump), and the hot one had a malformed one (looked like one of those kind that have a hump on top melted onto a regular flat washer.) & with the screw, (which I told you I saw). It took me so long getting them out, that I just reinstalled, and turned the water back on... Now... when I came back inside, I heard and saw the cold water on at a low flow, (which I thought I'd tightened)... and it took every bit of strength to get it down to a drizzle. (did I mention that I had a problem a couple of years ago, due to the constant dripping?? ) well, here I go again, I guess!
    And the hot water?? NOTHING!
    Please don't get put out that I didn't follow your instructions completely, but you can see that my reasoning was sound? I hope/
    I will do it again by your instuctions OK? Maybe there is more of something still in there?? I am hoping though, that you read this and it gives you more of a clue as to WHAT IS WRONG??
    suziq11's Avatar
    suziq11 Posts: 44, Reputation: 1
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    #26

    Aug 7, 2013, 11:41 PM
    Sorry, I've been sick, so I haven't done the water shut off & on thing, but I'm kinda' waiting to see what you think about the fact that, every time I've worked on the Hot water stem, the water hasn't been shut off then on and off again? I mean, doesn't that indicate a different type of problem? If then water is on, & I remove the stem/ nut, shouldn't the water have been trying to shoot through? I mean, that's what you've said it should do when I've removed the stem & then turn the water back on for a few seconds, right? So, if , when the water is on, and no water comes out of that faucet... what is stopping it? Could it be the valve seat? Could it be so worn out, or beaten up, that it won't allow water to pass through?
    frankiedon53's Avatar
    frankiedon53 Posts: 39, Reputation: 1
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    #27

    Aug 8, 2013, 09:17 AM
    What about replacing the stems altogether and handles.Or a whole new faucet. Or buy some kwik-set epoxy glue at the hardware store and put some in the handle and glue it as a temporary measure until it can be replaced .
    suziq11's Avatar
    suziq11 Posts: 44, Reputation: 1
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    #28

    Aug 8, 2013, 10:04 PM
    Well, you're new... I wish that you would read my first few pages... I already bought & now I know that the handles (acrylic knobs, the chrome valve cover and the chrome "Under handle" as a set).. are the wrong ones.. and after a lot of inspection the "under handle" which has the notches that are supposed to be the same amount as the amount of spines on the stem, aren't the same, and to epoxy glue it at this stage would make it impossible to ever work on or get to it again. And, since my problem seems to be deeper than the "Handles", I still have to have access to the stem, nut, washer, valve seat..? I think it's a matter of something causing a block that won't let my water to flow. Are you a plumber? I am dealing with a real problem, and need answers to my previous questions... Ok?
    suziq11's Avatar
    suziq11 Posts: 44, Reputation: 1
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    #29

    Aug 8, 2013, 10:18 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by suziq11 View Post
    well, you're new... I wish that you would read my first few pages... I already bought & now I know that the handles (acrylic knobs, the chrome valve cover and the chrome "Under handle" as a set)..are the wrong ones.. (however I bought them a couple of years ago, and only in the last couple of weeks ...or when ever I asked my questions) did I have this problem of "NO Water at all coming from my Hot faucet....and after alot of inspection the "under handle" which has the notches that are supposed to be the same amount as the amount of spines on the stem, aren't the same, and to epoxy glue it at this stage would make it impossible to ever work on or get to it again. And, since my problem seems to be deeper than the "Handles", I still have to have access to the stem, nut, washer, valve seat... ??? I think it's a matter of something causing a block that won't let my water to flow. Are you a plumber? I am dealing with a real problem, and need answers to my previous questions... Ok?
    Thanks for your interest,
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #30

    Aug 9, 2013, 06:19 PM
    If I understand correctly, the washer and screw were down in the faucet and you have removed them. If you removed the stem with the water still on,
    The water should be gushing out. There must be something blocking the pipe.

    Actually pipes don't get blocked or stopped. Only valves get blocked. Anything in the pipe will move to the next valve and that is where it stops.

    I afraid that this has gone beyond what I can diagnose without being there.

    Time to call a plumber (or handyman).
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    suziq11's Avatar
    suziq11 Posts: 44, Reputation: 1
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    #31

    Aug 10, 2013, 02:04 PM
    Hi again, I have (since last message) managed to achieve some very hopeful success! When I was waiting for you to offer a suggestion, I searched other similar posts, that you had responded to... and decided to 1st do the water shut-off and on again.This produced no debri/ washer blow outs, so I turned water back on, while working on the "H" & I decided to go "Fishing"
    . I was able to pull (from the hot water side... yet another domed washer, and in getting to it I had used a large heavy duty flat screw driver,that I dug into the valve seat and pulled it up a bit. When I did that, I heard the water pressure begin! YEAH!! That's when I quickly tried to tighten it back so I could run out to turn water back off.
    So, now I needed to deal with what was causing my "C" faucet to have so much water pressure, that I needed to be "Hercules" just to turn it off! A complete opposite problem, which has been an issue before. What I saw in there was/ is a screw (for the washer) and (although it is much smaller that the valve seat hole
    And should be easy to grab... ) it is somehow wedged in so well, that I can not get a grip on it, or magnetically get it!! I am thinking that the only way to get it out, will be to deal with a "valve seat replacement" and that in doing that I will be able to get at that screw?? Also, this whole "washer coming loose and causing problems'" thing seemes to be chronic!! Should I use an epoxy in addition to the screw to keep them from coming loose?? Is that something I could do without causing a new problem?? Thanks for the answer about the access panel, sure hope I don't have to go there!
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #32

    Aug 10, 2013, 02:20 PM
    Well at least you have made some progress. I can't imagine any circumstance where a screw and washer could get pushed down into the valve port. Now you are telling me that there was two in there.

    The water pressure has nothing to do with how hard the handle is to turn. How hard you tighten the nut around the stem is what is making the handle hard to turn.
    The nut not only holds the stem in place it compresses the rubber washer around the stem to keep water from coming out around the stem. You tighten the nut only tight enough to stop any water coming out around the stem.

    If you have another washer beneath the seat you will need a seat wrench to remove the seat. Shown below.

    Notice that one end has three sizes that are square. The other end has 3 sizes that are hexagon. Shine flash light down in faucet and look at seat. You should see round hole with notches in it. If there are four notches use the square end. If there are more than four use the hexagon end.

    When you have completely unscrewed the seat it should come out stuck to the end of the seat wrench. When putting it back in, put the seat on the end of the seat wrench and push it hard enough to make it stick. Then put the seat wrench in that faucet and screw the seat in.
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    suziq11's Avatar
    suziq11 Posts: 44, Reputation: 1
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    #33

    Aug 10, 2013, 02:24 PM
    Oh! I forgot to ask you, since I did the install, I have a leak at the handle seats. Should I have used plumber's putty or threading compound before tightening down the nut/ handle assembly? I also learned at my latest "Home Depot" visit, that my stem requires an "H" type handle, not the decorative knob, but the chrome cover part that has the matching notches to my spines on my stem. So, that will help I'm sure. And, if I have to do a valve seat replacement, the threads to it are at the bottom right? Boy, I think we're almost done, after 4 pgs. "WHEW!" please respond to my questions asap. I am so ready to be done!
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #34

    Aug 10, 2013, 02:27 PM
    if I have to do a valve seat replacement, the threads to it are at the bottom right?
    That is correct.
    suziq11's Avatar
    suziq11 Posts: 44, Reputation: 1
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    #35

    Aug 10, 2013, 02:55 PM
    I think you may have misunderstood me? I don't have a washer stuck under my "C" valve seat. It's a screw, that seems stuck in it, causing the washer to be unable to close onto the seat the way it's supposed to, and making it unable to be tightened enough to prevent it from leaking. I know it's not pressure, it just seems that way. So, the summary is this: the hot side has been cleared of any washers. Screws and is functioning. The cold side has a screw stuck in the valve seat hole. I'm not sure if the seat wrench will be able to fit, with that screw there. Which now begs the question of, my need to get at that screw... and, if I can't from the top, am I going to have to go into the panel... and an answer to the "Gluing of the washer" and the plumber putty thing? Also, I can't believe that someone would just add more washers, without removing the old one and its parts, How stupid!! 3 & a screw on one, and a washer/ with a stuck screw in the other!
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #36

    Aug 10, 2013, 03:17 PM
    3 & a screw on one, and a washer/ with a stuck screw in the other!
    You want to explain that. Remember I'm not there, I can't see what you see.
    I can't believe that someone would just add more washers, without removing the old one and its parts, How stupid!!
    Are you saying that someone did that?

    . And an answer to the "Gluing of the washer" and the plumber putty thing?
    No, that would be as stupid as putting multiple washers on a stem.

    Try to grip the screw with long, needle nose pliers.
    suziq11's Avatar
    suziq11 Posts: 44, Reputation: 1
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    #37

    Aug 10, 2013, 03:34 PM
    I'm saying that I found ( while working on the "H" stem) was :1st a domed and a flat washer melted together and a screw, then I just found another in there which makes 3 total just on that area alone) and after removing them I was able to get water flow back. So, that one is solved. Then the "C" stem area, (which had a problem in the past , I pulled out( I believe 1 or 2 washers, and still have a screw stuck inside of the valve seat stopping the washer from closing the flow. I have new washers and screws on both now, but the "C" side is near impossible to turn off. I'm not sure who added so many washers and screws to my faucets through the years, but someone sure did! Seems like there must be a way to prevent the washers from coming unscrewed like they seem to?
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #38

    Aug 10, 2013, 04:03 PM
    I'm not sure who added so many washers and screws to my faucets through the years, but someone sure did!
    Well, it wasn't me.
    suziq11's Avatar
    suziq11 Posts: 44, Reputation: 1
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    #39

    Aug 10, 2013, 10:49 PM
    How are you able to post a part of my reply and then show your response to just that part??
    If I knew, it would easier for me to do the same, rather than me trying to rephrase the comment in order to answer each part?? Hey, I was just trying to make sure you weren't insinuating that I was the "washer-Bandit."
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    suziq11 Posts: 44, Reputation: 1
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    #40

    Aug 12, 2013, 04:38 PM
    If I had a pair of needle nose long enough and skinny enough to reach the screw (about 3 1/2 in.) I know I could get it... The skinniest ones I have are too short, and then the handles won't fit... The longest ones reach it but then there's no room to open and close to grab. You know, I haven't tried the plunger... hmm?? So, the problem with my 'C' still persists... but, thanks to you, my friend, I have now a "General working knowledge" of the how's and why's of the " water delivery stem to the faucet". I doubt if you have any idea of how much it means to me. I have ,(due to being "just a girl",) always just been sent away so that "men in my life" could just fix things, and never bother to explain how. Thanks for being patient and sticking with me. Now... this isn't "good-bye", but I don't know when I'll get to that screw, since they both are functioning. I'll let you know my progress, and if you can come up with another idea I might use when I next try to tackle that screw again, I'll sure be watching my e-mail. Ok?

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