Ask Experts Questions for FREE Help !
Ask
    seancy's Avatar
    seancy Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Mar 19, 2007, 11:59 PM
    Sealing with cast iron hub donut?
    Following the sage advice found on this site in other postings, I managed to remove the misshapen, rusted waste pipe that went from my downstairs toilet to the horizontal main line (cast iron). So now I have a cleaned out bell and test fitted a neoprene donut from Lowe's (4" to 3") and plan on putting in a 3" PVC to the toilet. I'm a little concerned about the donut being tightly enough in the bell to prevent leaks.. should I use a neoprene caulk around the donut inside the bell to ensure a seal? Is there anything else I can do for peace of mind in this case?
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
    Ultra Member
     
    #2

    Mar 20, 2007, 07:01 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by seancy
    Following the sage advice found on this site in other postings, I managed to remove the misshapen, rusted waste pipe that went from my downstairs toilet to the horizontal main line (cast iron). So now I have a cleaned out bell and test fitted a neoprene donut from Lowes (4" to 3") and plan on putting in a 3" PVC to the toilet. I'm a little concerned about the donut being tightly enough in the bell to prevent leaks.. should I use a neoprene caulk around the donut inside the bell to ensure a seal? Is there anything else I can do for peace of mind in this case?
    If it doesn't fit snugly when dry-fitted, then you likely purchased the wrong one.
    seancy's Avatar
    seancy Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #3

    Mar 20, 2007, 09:21 AM
    It fits snugly, it just didn't require too much effort like I've seen people describine; i.e. I didn't have to cut any plastic off to make it work.
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
    Ultra Member
     
    #4

    Mar 20, 2007, 09:39 AM
    Hmmmm...

    A) Does it fit snugly into the cast iron hub?

    B) Did the 3" plastic fit in w/out a lot of cussing, yelling and pleading to the Deity?
    seancy's Avatar
    seancy Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #5

    Mar 20, 2007, 09:53 AM
    When I inserted the donut first without the PVC inside, it went in more easily. When I tried to put it in with the PVC already inside, it needed a few taps with the hammer. Getting the PVC itself in required a hell of a lot of effort, so that part I'm not concerned about leaking
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
    Ultra Member
     
    #6

    Mar 20, 2007, 10:10 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by seancy
    When I inserted the donut first without the PVC inside, it went in more easily. When I tried to put it in with the PVC already inside, it needed a few taps with the hammer. Getting the PVC itself in required a hell of a lot of effort, so that part I'm not concerned about leaking
    Sorry, but it sounds like you have the wrong one.

    Since you bought it at Lowe's, what you have was probably manufactured by Fernco.

    The one you want is a Ty-Seal manufactured by Tyler Pipe -- A Plumbing supply house should have the right one.
    seancy's Avatar
    seancy Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #7

    Mar 20, 2007, 03:14 PM
    So I checked the one from Lowe's and its not manufactured by Fernco. Went to a plumbing supply, and they gave me the fernco one, saying they didn't have the Tyler donut. Came home and tried that, same story as the one from Lowe's. What exactly is different about the Ty-Seal over the Fernco? Is it just a different size or is it a different product altogether? Thanks again for all the help here.
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
    Ultra Member
     
    #8

    Mar 20, 2007, 03:39 PM
    What exactly is different about the Ty-Seal over the Fernco? Is it just a different size or is it a different product altogether? Thanks again for all the help here.
    There were a number of different 'weights' of cast iron drainage pipe put out over the years.

    The Tyler Ty-Seal is by far the most adaptable in accommodating these differences.

    Could you upload a picture of the two you have?
    doug238's Avatar
    doug238 Posts: 1,560, Reputation: 62
    Ultra Member
     
    #9

    Mar 20, 2007, 07:51 PM
    Did you file the pvc pipe to a bevel so it would go in easier? Did you use some form of lubricant on it also?
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
    Ultra Member
     
    #10

    Mar 20, 2007, 08:16 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by doug238
    did ya file the pvc pipe to a bevel so it would go in easier? did ya use some form of lubricant on it also?
    It went in too easy for even that, Doug.

    Sounds like he has a 'service weight donut' and 'extra heavy weight' cast iron pipe.
    letmetellu's Avatar
    letmetellu Posts: 3,151, Reputation: 317
    Ultra Member
     
    #11

    Mar 20, 2007, 08:28 PM
    The Ty-Seal gasket has a built in O-Ring that fits into the ring on the inside of the hub, I am not sure what the others look like but I do know that to get the gasket into the hub you have to hold it in your hands and squeeze in one size, slip it into the hub and then release, then you my have to work it a bit to fit into the hub, then the PVC is not easy to get in either. At one time I had a 25 pound lead hammer to drive a cast iron pipe into the gasket.

Not your question? Ask your question View similar questions

 

Question Tools Search this Question
Search this Question:

Advanced Search

Add your answer here.


Check out some similar questions!

Separating a cast iron hub & spigot joint [ 1 Answers ]

Title says it all. I've done a comple gut on a 120 year old bathroom. The cast iron closet flange is broken (and quite gnarly) It connects into a "t" in the vent stack. How do I remove the offending iron flange? I believe it is sealed with the old school molten lead. Huge thanks to any...

Best way to stub out from a threaded cast iron hub? [ 2 Answers ]

I just (painfully) removed a chrome pipe + solder bushing from a cast iron hub. I bought a Desanco fitting to transition between the cast iron and a chromed brass tailpipe (this is for a wall-hung lav). The problem is that the hub (I don't know if that's even the right word for threaded cast...

Joining hub and spigot with no-hub cast iron pipe [ 4 Answers ]

HELLO GUYS, I have a question I hope you could help me. I have an old piping, CAST IRON hub and spigot. It is installed underground with the bell portion protruding for insertion of the soil stack. I would like to use no-hub cast iron pipes for the upper part of my house. Can I easily insert the...

Cast iron [ 2 Answers ]

Hi folks, What is the best way to repair a leaking tub drain that connects to cast iron main drain? Thank you, Jen

Join 4" PVC to Cast Iron Hub [ 2 Answers ]

I am re-routing the main sewer line that goes through the basement/crawl space of my 70+ year old house. Simply put, there are too many re-plumbs, new lines, and/or patches by previous generations. In the next months, a new kitchen and bathroom downstairs are going to cut into this patchwork 2...


View more questions Search