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fsupilam · Feb 19, 2013, 06:39 PM

Problem originally started the morning of 2/12. As my wife was showering we heard a lot of gurgling in the toilets. We waited a couple minutes and I tried to flush the toilet in that bathroom and it would not flush. I walked toward the front of the house and flushed that toilet and it would not flush either. At that point I knew there was an issue in the main line and immediately went out to the septic tank to make sure the sump pump was working. I have had this gurgling sound before and both times it was the pump. It was working fine.

That night we had root rooter out to clear the pipe. We could not find the clean out pipe so he removed the toilet in the master and snaked it from there. As he snaked the line I went outside to listen where the line came out from the house to the septic. I did find the clean out.

6 days later the problem repetes itself. My wife putting tamons down that week so I figured it just clogged again. They came back out under their guarantee and tried snaking the line from the clean out. This worked but the tech became concerned because the water from a flush didn't seem to be coming out very fast and it would take two flushes to see the toilet paper I put in the toilet to make it to the tank.

He recommended a camera snake of the line. A separate guy showed up in his mini copper and equipment. He ran his camera up as I watched and found some toilet paper still in the line and standing water. Said there is a major problem that the line is bellied. Would have to replace the whole main line under foundation for 12k

Thoughts? I'm questioning his opinion because it is clear he is a salesman. Also, is it expected with one flush that all solids will travel 80' to septic tank. Lastly, if they had just snaked the line, while would there still be a blockage.

Thanks for any help.

scott53715 · Feb 19, 2013, 07:02 PM

I would get another over to take a look. Can't see why you need to replace the whole line, since a portion can be replaced. Just get the bowed low point repaired. If you do have a sag, it will be a problem until that piece is replaced. Your floor will have to be removed and then replaced to do this, but your pipe shouldn't be that far beneath your floor. $12k sounds unreasonable. I had a piece replaced 10' below grade (yes it was outside) in November, and it was closer to $3k. Go for a reputable plumber, and ask your friends for a recommendation.

fsupilam · Feb 19, 2013, 09:43 PM

He said they could try that but that he doubted they could maintain the proper slope, and was pretty sure they would have to do whole line.

Also does pvc sag? I figured if the pressure was there it would snap it instead of snag

scott53715 · Feb 20, 2013, 06:15 PM

Originally Posted by fsupilam

he said they could try that but that he doubted they could maintain the proper slope, and was pretty sure they would have to do whole line.

also does pvc sag? I figured if the pressure was there it would snap it instead of snag

Sure it can sag, especially when it is carrying weight and not supported. I really, really think there's a better answer from someone else in your area--there's got to be. Logically the pipe was pitched properly when installed, but for some reason the base under the pipe has given way. Its very easy to maintain the correct slope, the simplest is putting a level on the pipe. By trenching out the floor and digging up the pipe, it can be cut and removed. A proper compacted base laid down at the correct slope (basically mating with the two good ends). Then replacing the pipe using a couple of repair couplers. Go find that reputable plumber! Let us know how it goes.

fsupilam · Feb 20, 2013, 07:13 PM

Originally Posted by scott53715

Sure it can sag, especially when it is carrying weight and not supported. I really, really think there's a better answer from someone else in your area--there's got to be. Logically the pipe was pitched properly when installed, but for some reason the base under the pipe has given way. Its very easy to maintain the correct slope, the simplest is putting a level on the pipe. By trenching out the floor and digging up the pipe, it can be cut and removed. A proper compacted base laid down at the correct slope (basically mating with the two good ends). Then replacing the pipe using a couple of repair couplers. Go find that reputable plumber!! Let us know how it goes.

Im trying to find one here in orlando. I got the video of the snake job but I can't really tell much. The problem seems to begin where three pipes come together and then works its way to the toilet in back of house. It would be ideal if I could just replace what seems to be the problem area since that is under carpet. The rest of the line is under tile and hardwood.

If I can figure out how to upload a dvd vidoe to YouTube or something I'll post it so you can see.

speedball1 · Mar 7, 2013, 04:39 PM

I'm coming in new son I'm going to ask some questions and make a few observations. First off tell your wife that the only thing that should go down the toilet is human waste and toilet paper. NO EXCEPTIONS!
Next, gurgles indicate a vent problem which could prevent popper drainage.
Next, I would want to know how deep the bell was. ( a slight bell shouldn't hurt.)By sump pump do you mean ejector system? Explain how it ties in.
Back to you, Tom