[svaic00]

Hello,

I am in the process of finishing my basement, and I am about to start the framing. I was wondering if the way I plan to start the framing in the corner is the correct way to do it, see attached jpeg pictures in the post. The first picture is an overview to show how the studs would lay out over the first 8 ft, for hanging a 4x8 drywall sheet. The second picture is a close up view of the corner. Notice in the second picture, the drywall for the bottom wall starts at the left wall, and then would span 8' from the beginning of the first stud, to the middle of the 7th stud. (So center of first stud to center of second stud is 15.25", and then c-c is 16". The drywall on the left wall, starts at the face of the drywall for the bottom wall, attached to the backer stud and then the 8' span ends up in the middle of the 7th stud. Notice on the left wall, from the face of bottom wall drywall, to the center of the first stud is 16", and then the rest of studs are 16" centers.

Is this the correct way to do this, or am I not approaching it the right way.

Thanks in advance,
Steve

[creahands]

I use steel studding. Do not have to cut as accurate and studs are not set until S/R is screwed to it.

I also install S/R the 4' way(horizontal). This reduces the number of seams to be taped and eliminates butt seams in middle of wall.

Chuck

[svaic00]

Thanks for the advice, I have looked into steel studs, and decided to go with wood for other reasons. The answer though in no way helps me with the questions that I originally asked though.

Steve

[joypulv]

What other reasons? Wood in a basement is nothing but trouble, and the wood should be not be in direct contact with the concrete.
When I took out wood walls in my parents' basement, every imaginable bug ran out from the bottom plates, there was dry rot, there was evidence of old termite damage - all over 40 years. And it was only half underground. You may think you have good ventilation and no dampness problems in your basement, but there is always some, and it has to be able to get out.

[svaic00]

What other reasons? Wood in a basement is nothing but trouble, and the wood should be not be in direct contact with the concrete.
When I took out wood walls in my parents' basement, every imaginable bug ran out from the bottom plates, there was dry rot, there was evidence of old termite damage - all over 40 years. And it was only half underground. You may think you have good ventilation and no dampness problems in your basement, but there is always some, and it has to be able to get out.

Wood is not going directly on concrete. I put up 2" of XPS foam board on all the walls (vapor barrier and has r value), the framing is going in front of that. I placed a subfloor down which is a combination of xps and osb tongue and groove tiles. The xps sits on the concrete, the wood is on top of the xps, and then the bottom plate will sit on that (product is called barricade floor tiles from ovrx.com), so the bottom plate is not on the concrete either. But none of the responses I have gotten yet though answer my original question. I am not trying to make this into a debate about wood vs steel in basement. My question is regarding the framing layout and how it is spaced out, will that work?

Thanks
Steve

[smoothy]

Just a friendly FYI... your combative tone is keeping others from answering this thread.

[svaic00]

I never tried to come across as combative, I was just trying to reply to the responses that they posted. I understand the differences between steel and wood, I did my research and I decided to go with wood, not trying to debate between those two types of framing. All I am looking for is an answer to the original question that I posted, that's all. I understand they were all just trying to give advice, that's fine, but nobody has answered my original question yet, and that's what I am looking for. You read someone's typing, and people are going to interpret the tone of the wording differently. It was never meant to come across as an argument, defensive, or anything else.

[joypulv]

Generally a corner is an H of 2 studs with blocks between them going one direction, and 1 stud going the other. Yours will work for a basement. Add a few blocks in the H configuration and you have a much stronger corner.
I was hedging because of concern over the basic plan, which you have answered.

[creahands]

Sorry, Steve, about my not answering your question.

The standard layout from a starting corner is first stud edge at 15 1/2 inches. Then each stud after that at 16 inches.

The layout you have will work only if you install S/R as shown. If you error and reverse the installation you will fall short on wall where your picture shows layout from S/R.

Hope this helps and answers your question.

Chuck

[svaic00]

Thanks. What does S/R stand for? I couldn't figure that out.

[ma0641]

Thanks. What does S/R stand for? I couldn't figure that out.

Sheet Rock AKA drywall. Make your bottom plate Pressure treated, I believe this is code in most areas. Easier to install horizontal and much less taping plus seams are below eye level.

[creahands]

Sheetrock

Chuck

[svaic00]

Thanks. Just curious, how do you figure out that there will be less taping when placing the 4x8 sheets horizantally vs vertically. My floor to ceiling height will be about 7'-7", so if i take an 8' sheet, and cut 5" off, and place it vertically, I would have a seam every 4', full wall height. If I place the sheets horizontally 8' long, you end up having a full seam at mid height of wall, and then staggered vertical seams. It almost seems that it would end up being the same amount.

I know I always hear people say to hang it horizontally, and that is the way I usually see it done. Is one way better than the other?

Thanks,
Steve

[ma0641]

Thanks. Just curious, how do you figure out that there will be less taping when placing the 4x8 sheets horizantally vs vertically. My floor to ceiling height will be about 7'-7", so if i take an 8' sheet, and cut 5" off, and place it vertically, i would have a seam every 4', full wall height. If I place the sheets horizontally 8' long, you end up having a full seam at mid height of wall, and then staggered vertical seams. It almost seems that it would end up being the same amount.

I know I always hear people say to hang it horizontally, and that is the way I usually see it done. Is one way better than the other?

Thanks,
Steve

Lets take a 12 ft room. Use 12 'horizontally and you have 12 ft to tape. Using vertical you have 16'. That's 30 % more just in 1 wall. Adds up in a large house.

[creahands]

Steve

There is no difference from vertical or horizontal.

You will have more taping to do with vertical installation, but will not have any butt seams. The butt seams are harder to do and hide.

Using 12' in a 12' room will also eliminate butt seams but is harder to work with and will need 2 people. If the room is more then 12' back come the butt seams.

Chuck

[svaic00]

Lets take a 12 ft room. Use 12 'horizontally and you have 12 ft to tape. Using vertical you have 16'. That's 30 % more just in 1 wall. Adds up in a large house.

I see what your saying with that.

In my basement, I will not be able to get anything larger than 4x8 sheets down there. Can not use the stairs, have to use our window well, we have a 180 degree turn in the stairs. 4x12 won't fit, it would hit the floor before it clears the top of the window well, to enter through the window.

So with vertical installation, basically every 4' I will have a vertical seam full height. Where with horizontal, I will have a seam at mid wall height all the way around the room, and then every 8' (due to staggered 4' butt seams) you end up with a full height seam. So looking at it that way, then I can estimate the amount of taping seams I would have.

Thanks,
Steve

[creahands]

Hi Steve
The 8' seams have a bevel so you should be able to do it with 2 coats. On the butt seams you will need 3 coats and do a lot of feathering.

Chuck