dig the ditch below frost line and bury 1 " pvc at least 2' feet deep across roads or driveways, three 4awg copper conducters and one 8awg ground wire for 120/240 50A Two 4awg copper and one 8awg gound for 120V 50A. THHN is the insulation sold for most general use here, but Calif ain't North Dakota by a long shot. call locally ask what is common for underground conductors in pipe.
these wires are 2 sizes larger than what is called for at a shorter distance, but will minimize voltage drop at that distance.
safest from wind/ice damage underground, you would probably be OK with 6awg and 10 awg if the bigger wires are too expensive. aluminum is cheaper but you have to get bigger wire and pipe and then a glue on box with hubs bigger than 1" becomes a problem to find at short notice.
DON'T go
smaller than 6awg and 10awg though.
1 pcs 1"RMC rigid (metal ) 90 degree bend
1 pcs 1 " sch40 PVC 90 degree bend
200' 1 " schedule 40 rigid PVC conduit (assumes this has bells(couplings built in) on one end of each stick) make sure you include the piece up into the panel.
4 pcs 1 " PVC couplings slipxslip
2 pcs 1" PVC FA (female adapter-female pipe thread x slip) use these on the metal 90 degree bend put this bend at the end you will pull wire from...This means the end where it will come out when you pull it in. Plastic pipe can wear a groove in it with the string and rope pulling through a 90 degree bend and become incredibly badly stuck if it cuts into the bend too much. tough for me to deal with and I do this all the time.
1 pcs 1' PVC MA male adapter (also called a TA- terminal adapter) 1"male pipe thread x slip for connecting the pipe to the panel box
1pcs 1" locknut for the MA threads
http://www.google.com/products/catal...ed=0CF8Q8wIwAQ
(tip for pros, slip a piece of liquidtight flex with metal innerside over the string and down into the 90,pulling through this avoids cutting plastic 90s)
1 quart PVC glue (suitable for North Dakota, me in Calif.)
1pcs plastic weatherproof box PVC with 1" hub(s) (slip hub for glue)
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/CAN...YX9?Pid=search
1quart wire pulling lube one 1/4" poly rope to pull wire in with
vacuum to suck twine through pipe and attach rope to pull it in to the pipe, tie a piece of plastic grocery bag on the end of the twine to make vacuuming it in easier.
Wire as needed, order it a little long, s**ks if it is too short, doesn't stretch, add enough to make it up to the breaker AND the neutral bar AND the ground bar. I specified the number of conductors to give you two hots and a neutral for 240v or one hot and a neutral for 120v. (
(normally no need for neutral with 220v but you will no doubt need it for the 120v stuff in the trailer)
To save money at the trailer end you could just take the cord end off the trailer and hardwire it, (The receptacle for that cord is kind of pricy) meaning join the wire directly, you could also end the pipe at that end underneath the trailer in a buried N9 Christy box or something similar, just turn the pipe up in the box.
http://www.oldcastleprecast.com/chri...catalog_0.html
put gravel in the bottom of the christy box so it drains, tape the lugs up good.
decent tape here
http://www.cesco.com/b2c/product/230...Fal7Qgodr3sAhw
use polaris style lugs like IT-4 in link to join the wires and cord. One for each wire that size will work for any of the wire I specified
http://www.polarisconnectors.com/pdfs/NSi/IT_series.pdf
use the wire lube with the bigger wire. You shouldn't need it with the smaller size. It makes pulling it in easier.
you probably have more questions, I have to get to bed, work is early tomorrow is Monday. This should get you done. Others will help
Caveat: You might be able to direct bury some cable up there in the frozen tundra, but since snow is (literally) a 200 year event where I am and ice is for your bourbon, I have no idea what might be acceptable if you go that route.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JhHCcUnm4SI