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nate220 · Mar 11, 2007, 04:11 PM

I meant rupture. The current layout has the existing floor drain 30 feet away. For any water from the T&P or in case of a rupture, the water would need to rise at least 1/2" to an inch in order to make it to the floor drain since my basement is not level and "bumpy". I am using the existing fllor drain to drain my new bathroom I am putting in the basement.

I currently have a 1/2" pvc line that takes the condensation from the AC to the existing floor drain. I was planning on tying that into either the new floor drain or the laundry sink drain (it would be above the p trap).

Speedball's solution would still require a floor drain right?

SO basically I need the floor drain. Can I tie that into the 2" standpipe/laundry sink just before it enters the 3" line for the toilet or should it tie into the 3" line directly

nate220 · Mar 12, 2007, 10:46 AM

If I went with an indirect drain and condesantion pump I could drain that in the laundry sink drain and eliminate the floor drain, right? The question I would have is if the HW tank did rupture, could that pump keep up with it or would it still flood.

speedball1 · Mar 12, 2007, 11:11 AM

"Speedball's solution would still require a floor drain right?"
Wrong! The pump would pump any discharge or leakage up and out of the house. No floor drain is needed. Here's what I suggested.
A heater pan with 4" edges and a AC condensate pump would be the answer to his problem. If a rupture should occur the pumps float switch would activate, the pump would kick in and the discharge would be pumped up and outside

"The question I would have is if the HW tank did rupture, could that pump keep up with it or would it still flood."

Most boiler welds don't split wide opem they open up a small crack and leak water out. As Doug pointed out a water heater doesn't rupture very often. The heater pan and pump is mealy insurance. Good luck, Tom

nate220 · Mar 12, 2007, 11:46 AM

Thanks, I may go with that indirect drain idea. Am I correct in that I can run that to the laundry sink drain. Would have to tie in between the trap and the sink?
The last thing I want to confirm is whether I should install a backwater check valve right off the main. It sounds like I have to since I am in a basement. Do you have a type/brand that you recommend.

iamgrowler · Mar 16, 2007, 08:07 PM

Originally Posted by nate220

Thanks, I may go with that indirect drain idea. Am I correct in that I can run that to the laundry sink drain. Would have to tie in between the trap and the sink?
The last thing I want to confirm is whether I should install a backwater check valve right off of the main. It sounds like I have to since I am in a basement. Do you have a type/brand that you recommend.

Check to make sure that you are indeed below the manhole cover of the sanitary sewer before going to the expense and hassle of installing a backwater valve.

Just because it's a basement installation doesn't necessarily mean it's below the level of the manhole cover.

nate220 · Mar 17, 2007, 01:15 PM

I am defininely below the manhole cover at the street near my house. My first floor level is pretty much level with the street. The street does go down a large hill approximately 400' feet away from my house. If the sanitary line falls down that way, I would need a blockage right at my house in order for it to back up into my basement. I really don't want to install one, but I want to do this right.