[permaspin]

I considered throwing the old coil back on and replacing the rotor and cap and seeing what the deal is, but, I figure I'd rather replace both.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

After installing the new coil, your ignition system should be in great shape.

Did you apply a thin, even coat of silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the ICM? It goes between the ICM and the heat sink.

[permaspin]

Yes I did.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Good.

[permaspin]

Everything is installed, and the car fires right up and idles good. I went for a short drive problem free.. Tomorrow morning I'm taking it to a cottage.. About 60 miles away.. That will be the true test. Ill report back! Thanks for the help thus far

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Good job!

It should be in great shape, now, with all that you've done. You saved yourself quite a bit of money.

[permaspin]

I've put on 200 miles so far... 0 problems.. The car has never ran this good since I've owned it, I wish there was so way I could repay you for your time

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Very good job. I'm not surprised it worked flawlessly--I could tell you were competent.

[permaspin]

I drove problem free for 2 weeks straight, the car ran perfect. 2 days ago on my way to work, after about 45 minutes of driving I saw the engine light come on.. I drove for a few miles until I came to a stop light, shut the car off and restarted it and attempted to accelerate, and there was 0 power... I couldn't even move the car.. I pushed it to the shoulder. The car would fire right up but wouldn't idle.. I'm assuming either the coil or the ICM failed?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Check for codes. If no codes were thrown, I'd replace the ICM under warranty. It's less likely, but still possible, the coil failed. I just haven't seen them fail that quickly. What brand were the parts?

Another possibility is that one of the internal sensors failed (CKP, CYL, or TDC) inside the distributor. They are unserviceable. In this case, install your ICM and coil in a new genuine Honda distributor housing.

[permaspin]

There were no codes... I checked the fuel pressure too.. Its bang on.. The coil and ICM were both blue streak igniton parts.. They weren't cheap.. Is there anything else inside the distriubutor that could be failing

[TxGreaseMonkey]

How many miles are on the current distributor housing? Honda distributors tend to last 50,000 to 95,000 miles. Grease in the sealed bearing wears out, sensor gaps change, and the car dies.

[permaspin]

125 000 miles

[TxGreaseMonkey]

I haven't seen a Civic distributor housing last that long. Therefore, I assume that's the problem. Remove the cap and look for orange dust.

[permaspin]

I see complete distriubtors on eBay for $90.. Aftermarket of course.. What about these products make them so un reliable and prone to failing?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Total junk! You put your life on the line with anything but a genuine Honda distributor housing. Half of all aftermarket distributors for Hondas don't work out of the box--the remaining ones are unreliable and often fail several months later. It's a constant problem on this site. Aftermarket manufacturers can't get the internal sensors to work properly. You can buy a genuine Honda distributor housing from CollegeHillsHonda.com for 20 to 25% off. I love those guys.

[permaspin]

I called honda and they want $967 canadian for a new distributor.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

That is likely for a complete distributor, including ICM, coil, rotor, and cap. Check CollegeHillsHonda.com. They likely ship to Canada.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

$323.82 @CollegeHillsHonda.com.
Product ID : 30105-PM5-A05

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Make sure the CEL comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II). If it does, then focus on the distributor. If it stays on, your ECM may have failed.