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jujubrose · Feb 23, 2007, 01:25 PM

Our Motor in or heat pump burnt out just the motor no other damage to boards or anything else installed a new motor and am getting code 4. Blower will not turn on in less than a minute. Have not let it run longer as Im afraid it will get to hot and melt wires. The fan turns on gas ignites burners burn fine. There are two brown Wires coming from the motor to what looks like some type of coil they are both brown and marked the same. Have never seen this am afraid this may be the problem also. As I do not know if they can be hooked up backwards.

I know code 4 is a limiter switch. Would that stop the blower motor from coming on. Would the motor burning out trip the limiter switch. Would a broken door switch trip the limiter switch. I can push in on the door switch and get the little red light to come on or go out. Thanks Julie :confused: :rolleyes: :)

jujubrose · Feb 23, 2007, 04:03 PM

OK bypassed door switch when I turn on the fan switch to fan the board just clicks like it is trying to turn the motor on but nothing can not find limit switch and have jumped those little things that are like some type of fuse. Still nothing

jujubrose · Feb 23, 2007, 04:04 PM

O and no more code 4

labman · Feb 23, 2007, 05:56 PM

Ok the limit switch is opening because the blower isn't starting. The blower may not be starting because of the capacitor. For an extensive discussion of capacitors, see

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/heatin...ight=capacitor

jujubrose · Feb 24, 2007, 12:44 AM

Lab man we used to have two chocalates I loved them, Well thank you for your post but the problem persists. I no longer get any codes the capacitor is new it came with the motor from janitrol. The fan comes on the burners light and burn after about 30 seconds you can hear the switch click to turn on the blower motor it does nothing after that. At least I think it is clicking to turn on the motor anyway you can hear a click. I have gone back over the wiring 20 times I even labeled it all before taking it apart. Nothing. I have reached in and turned the cage by hand thinking it may be bound by something it spins free. Some how I think I have wired it wrong but I do not see how.

But some how I feel the motor is not getting juice otherwise it would turn on. I do not know where to look first. I have tried to push in the little things that seem to be circuit breakers there are 4 of them in lines coming out of the pump compartment two on either side of the gas assembly in the upper compartment and one just a stray. I believe these are some sort of tempurature circuit but I do not know they do not seem to reset like a normal reset. But they are all sticking up.

labman · Feb 24, 2007, 12:47 PM

The 30 seconds doesn't sound right to me, too long for a flame detection error, and to soon for the blower to start. Check the sequence of operations in the sticky, https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/heatin...ons-58313.html Try to figure out where the sequence stops, then check the last operation and the sensor that checks it. The sticky was put together by a man that knows much more about furnaces than I do.

Also make sure the motor connector is plugged into the right spot on the board. Try fan ''On'' too.

jujubrose · Feb 24, 2007, 07:14 PM

Still nothing when in fan or ac it still just clicks at the board I have checked the vacuum lines rapped on the transformer and rechecked my wiring even in ac mode it tries to turn on the blower no blower in fan it does the same thing.

labman · Feb 24, 2007, 08:22 PM

To do simple checks like this you do need some tools. A test light, a meter, or a voltage detector might be the best place to start with. I came across the niftiest gadget for trouble shooting, a voltage detector. They work through the insulation of wires. There are several brands. I have a GB Instruments GVD-505A, less than $15 at Home Depot. Touch it to a hot wire, and the end glows red. Find the doodad that lights it on one side, and not the other, and you have the culprit. You do not have to open up housings and expose electrical contacts. You are looking at where your hand is, not where the meter is. Most people are capable of doing repairs and will get it going and not get hurt if they use a little sense. The voltage detector makes it even easier.

You can hold the door switch in with one hand while probing the wires to the blower with the voltage detector in the other hand. Much easier that trying to get the probes of a volt meter to the contacts on the underside of a circuit board.