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RetiredLE · Dec 16, 2011, 09:50 PM

Here is a puzzle for yeah,

I have a GE 2 HP capacitor start electric motor. Model # 5KC49QG525, 60hz, 1725 rpm, single phase, serial number BGL.

It is currently not hooked up to electric power so I have no idea what it was using, 115 or 230. It has six wires coming out of it. Three are hooked up with twist connectors to a short four foot length of armored cable and the other three are loose - but appear to have been connected to something at one time.

The motor is bolted up to a belt drive power unit that used to drive a metal lathe. The lathe has a control box on it with forward, off, and reverse switches on it – obviously to control the motor. Two wires come from the control box on the lathe and run through a short section of armored cable which isn't connected to anything.

Any ideas?

Mike

donf · Dec 17, 2011, 08:13 AM

First of all, get that nameplate back on the motor if you have not already done so, please. It is a violation of code and UL to remove that label.

Next, The Armored Cable, what are the color codes of the wires that connect to the motor?

Are you trying to repair this motor, in which case we need to know how it failed.

Is this motor being used as a 120 volt motor or a 240 volt motor? Normally a 240 volt motor runs more efficiently.

Article 430 of the NEC discusses the installation of motors.

You need to review the information in that section to determine the proper planning for the circuit if you are going to use the motor for anything else.

stanfortyman · Dec 17, 2011, 08:38 AM

See if anything on this site helps: Motor Connection Diagrams

Stratmando · Dec 17, 2011, 08:53 AM

Are the wires marked with numbers 1,2,3,4,5, and 8?

RetiredLE · Dec 17, 2011, 07:37 PM

The wires are all black and they are numbered. The three wires which are attached to wire nuts and are routed inside the armored cable are T4, T1, and T5. The three short wires which were at one time connected to something are T2, T3 and J10. Photo attached.

The nameplate will be re-installed - although as a private citizen I don't think I fall under the same guideline or restrictions as say for example a licensed electrician would. I equate that to removing the tag on my feather pillow. :p)

Thanks for the motor diagram link.

tkrussell · Dec 18, 2011, 07:07 AM

Excellent link,Stan...

Originally Posted by stanfortyman

See if anything on this site helps: Motor Connection Diagrams

So good I am going to print out and give to my service techs.

Stratmando · Dec 18, 2011, 08:09 AM

What wires are in the Whip?
Are 3 of the wires unmarked?
Thinking the whip is from the supply and the wires in the compartment is for reversing?
J10 being common?

donf · Dec 18, 2011, 09:52 AM

Originally Posted by ;

The nameplate will be re-installed - although as a private citizen I don't think I fall under the same guideline or restrictions as say for example a licensed electrician would. I equate that to removing the tag on my feather pillow.

I beg to differ on the issue of removing the nameplate. Unlike a pillows label, there is quite a bit of information on that nameplate that is needed to determine such things a over current protection for the feeders, the phase that must be used, which table to use to identify the "Full Motor Current".

It is not about a personal issue, it is about making sure the needed information to complete the installation stays on the motor.

Also, if you remove the motor nameplate, how do you know that the motor is the correct size for installation.

Being a private citizen doesn't mean you have to be a foolish private citizen.