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    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #21

    Sep 11, 2011, 03:59 PM
    It appears that you could easily slip an full length joist in next to this one if you could get it down into the basement.
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    dtorgs's Avatar
    dtorgs Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
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    #22

    Sep 11, 2011, 04:09 PM
    I agree I could slide a joist along side the one opening. Good eye, it's the other joists I'm concerned about and maneuvering the new joists around the plumbing and hvac, some of it is easily moved, which is good news. The shiny thing is just a shim or something, it could be easily removed. The grade is about 2' above that window. The problem is there is a porch and concrete sidewalk out there and I don't really want to demolish those
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #23

    Sep 11, 2011, 06:36 PM
    The PVC drains can easily be cut and reconnected. It looks like the HVAC duct could be dropped down, probably about a foot or so so you could work the joist by the toilet drain. The question is could you get a full length joist down there and could the stone next to the joist by the toilet drain be removed so you could work a new joist in.

    You said porch. Porch or deck.
    dtorgs's Avatar
    dtorgs Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
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    #24

    Sep 12, 2011, 09:19 PM
    I was just measuring and I might be able to get a full length joist down through a small window, but I don't think I'd be able to to get the full length joist jostled into place.

    There is a porch outside of that wall.

    I think I could get a joist next to the existing one next to the toilet drain. But still don't think I'd be able to get a full length joist into place without ripping out most of my plumbing and most of my hvac lines down there...
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #25

    Sep 13, 2011, 03:15 PM
    Lets regroup.

    As far as structural support is concerned you can cut out the damage material and replace with a short piece of 2x8, preferably treated. Then scab on about a 3 or 4 ' piece of 1/2 or 3/4 plywood on either side. I'd use screws over nails. If you want to over do it, you could throw in a couple through bolts on either side of the joint. The would be more than adequate support.

    Anything more than that is because of people, future potential buyers. Most will note the repairs. Many will decline because of it. Almost all will require an inspection by one of those home inspectors. Some of these guys are pretty good, most are not. Most likely a home inspector will protect himself by saying you need an to replace the joist or get an engineer to certify the repairs. Try getting an engineer signature. Cost you more than replacing the joist. All that at a time when you are try to sell.

    For those reasons I would sister in full length joist if I could get them down there.

    As far as the plumbing, cut those two PVC pipes and reconnect after you are through. That is about a total of 30 minutes work and $10. It looks like if you remove hanger strap of the heat and A/C duct that the duct would drop down. You should only need about 6 to 8 inches to get the joist over it.

    The only question left is, can the stone next to the joist by the toilet drain be remove then reinstalled after you put the new joist in.
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    dtorgs Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
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    #26

    Sep 14, 2011, 06:36 PM
    Thanks for the pep-talk... you're right if I'm going to do it, I might as well do it right.

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