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    CarlyTD's Avatar
    CarlyTD Posts: 51, Reputation: 3
    Junior Member
     
    #1

    Apr 4, 2011, 06:00 AM
    Insulating an Old House
    I am looking to insulate a 1913 one story in New England. I am thinking on using blow in cellulose in the attic and walls. I'm wondering if anyone has any thoughts or opinions on the best way to add some insulation to an old house.

    Also, if I go the blow in route, is there anything I should watch out for? I now the venting and the dusty mess, but can I blow the stuff over old wiring(knob & tooth)? How about blowing the stuff in the walls? I know to avoid spaces around chimneys, etc, but how about anything else?

    I appreciate any input...
    KBC's Avatar
    KBC Posts: 2,550, Reputation: 487
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    #2

    Apr 4, 2011, 06:14 AM
    The new(white) insulation isn't a fire hazard like day's of old.I have done many older homes,businesses,etc with the new insulation,it goes where it can.

    In homes such as you are describing,some of those walls have a "fireblock" just a spacer between studs which stops fire from just running up the walls inside(and spaces the stud that was warped,etc... ) it also stops the insulation from reaching the bottom of the wall too:(

    I did all my blow in from the outside(drilling holes and inserting the pipe(which I used roller sleeves to make the holes smaller and allow for more volume, but still had some clogging(I wrapped it in shipping plastic and could remove the end quite easily)

    That was for the walls only.

    Attic was simple,just start where you know you can stand and blow it in,make a layer high enough for your needs(15" or so)unless you plan on ply-wooding the floors,then I would just roll with unfaced insulation.

    The mess is clean looking(as the product is white) and rakes up easily enough.

    Keeping the soffit areas open to breathing is most important,there are rafter spacers(Styrofoam) that keep the blow in insulation from causing the build-up you want to avoid, Big box stores carry these,much less the local lumber yards.

    Order more than you think you might need,they always take back what you don't open.(as long as it isn't damaged)and if it's anything like where I used to do this,the company would deliver the unit and product,then pick up the unit and left-overs when you are done.

    Shop around for suppliers,they are not all the same.Big Box stores(Menards,Lowe's,etc,) will charge for the services, the local yards won't(or will do t for less than the big guys)
    joypulv's Avatar
    joypulv Posts: 21,591, Reputation: 2941
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    #3

    Apr 9, 2011, 08:11 AM
    KBC, in deference to your profession, are you sure this won't be a problem in New England, in an old house?
    Blown in in old houses gets damp and speeds rot. Moisture works it's way from interiors right into the stuff and molds the back side of plaster.
    Also, local codes might not allow it around knob and tubing, which is a fire hazard already.

    My theory is that there is no good way to insulate a 1913 NE house.
    KBC's Avatar
    KBC Posts: 2,550, Reputation: 487
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    #4

    Apr 10, 2011, 03:36 AM
    Cellulose - Shredded newspapers treated with fire retardant. Even though it's "paper" and sounds ineffective, it's actually a well-established insulating material. Not only that, cellulose settles better into the wall cavities. Downside: it becomes a problem when cellulose gets wet, because it takes a long time to dry out--if ever.

    This is one method of blow in insulation,then there is this,

    Blow-in insulation (also called loose fill or blowing wool insulation) can be used in several different applications, but it is especially useful in unfinished attics or attics with hard-to-reach areas.*From the Johns Manville site*,this is a mineral based fiber insulation with no fire related properties.

    Best thing for the homeowner to do here would be to contact the local building code office and ask them what is acceptable for their specific region.

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