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    Bob_from_VA's Avatar
    Bob_from_VA Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Nov 27, 2010, 10:55 AM
    Are unions allowed in the main NG line?
    I'm adding a 35' extension to my existing 50', 1", main NG line. The extension is also 1" and is to support 3 NG appliances. The extension needs to be 1" in order to support the worst case volume. I've already learning from massplumber2008 that I couldn't use a valve in the main line, but now I thought I'd ask if a union is permited between the existing 50' and the new 35' addition. I like the idea of a union because that would allow me to build and test the addition, prior to breaking into the main line and testing the whole system. Please let me know before I buy another useless item. Also, is the inspector going to want to see the addition tested then the whole system tested, just the whole system test, or just the new addition test? Thanks.
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
    Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
     
    #2

    Nov 27, 2010, 11:19 AM

    Why not just ask your city inspector what he wants to see. Some of them are picky as all get out and others are laid back. Hard for us to guess which one will visit you. The union should be fine but I am trying to figure out why Massplumber did not want a valve. I do not recall a code saying no, what did mass tell you?
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #3

    Nov 27, 2010, 03:19 PM

    Hi guys:

    Yeah... codes differ state by state, Bob... why I have been so careful in my advise to you.

    I think Ballenger has a good point here. Ask your inspector exactly what he wants. The fact is that if he will let you isolate the addition using a ball valve or a union fitting it sure will save some time/money, huh?

    In my area, inspectors frown on inline unions... except AFTER the appliance shut off, and they won't let me isolate additions with inline valves (as I explained at my last post), but maybe your guy will go for it... just need to ask.

    My greatest worry when advising people is to give them advice that causes extra work for them... NOT the idea of what we are trying to do here!

    Let me know what your inspector says, OK?

    Good luck!

    Mark
    ma0641's Avatar
    ma0641 Posts: 15,675, Reputation: 1012
    Uber Member
     
    #4

    Nov 27, 2010, 05:46 PM
    Unless you are using approved flex lines and flare fittings, it is almost impossible to not have a union. Lets say you run your last fitting and are at the gas valve. You can't go straight to the gas valve or fixture because when you tighten into the gas valve, you loosen at the fitting. You can run all the way backwards to the meter, outside the house, and guess what-there is a union there. The heater at my house has a union at the last turn before the gas valve, above the shut off valve.
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #5

    Nov 27, 2010, 06:00 PM

    Brian... clearly all appliances get a shutoff and a union fitting (or flexible gas connector)... ;)

    Ron is asking about unions in line to a new addition. In my area, it isn't illegal, but it is frowned upon as a practice.

    Here, If I need to cut into the middle of a main line to add a tee fitting then I can use a union fitting on the main line... have no choice short of running an entire new main, but I CAN'T use a union on the branch line... no reason for it, per say and it is frowned upon if it is there... at least in my area.

    I've advised Ron to check with the local inspector... you know how every town has an inspector that wants it done the way they want it done... :)

    Anyway, no arguments on the union, for sure!

    Thanks...

    Mark
    Bob_from_VA's Avatar
    Bob_from_VA Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #6

    Nov 27, 2010, 07:33 PM
    ballengerb1,

    massplumber2008 said... code is quite specific on location of shutoffs... drives us crazy sometimes. For example, I can't install a shut off downstairs under a stove because the shutoff must be as close to the appliance as possible. Here, I've been arguing for years, if there was ever really a gas fire at a stove, the shutoff behind the stove won't do anyone any good, but the shut off downstairs would. All inspectors shrug their shoulders and agree with me, but they still want the shut off behind the stove.

    argaiu1017's Avatar
    argaiu1017 Posts: 92, Reputation: 8
    Junior Member
     
    #7

    Nov 28, 2010, 12:54 AM
    Hi,
    If u are adding 3 more natural gas appliances to an existing 1" gas main, u are setting up yourself for problems. Gas are sized by BTU's. it is determined by total BTU's and the length to most remote outlet.
    if u are worried about testing the whole house, you could install an isolation fullway ballvalve at the tie in to the 1" gas main. Ballvalve has to be accessible for this to happen. Then all u would do is put a gauge at the termination of new 1" gas to addition.
    My suggestion is using a left and right nipple and coupling and a union is perfectly legal as long as this locations have access to this fittings. I hope this answers your questions. Thanks

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