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    chucke's Avatar
    chucke Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Aug 7, 2010, 04:23 PM
    Toyota 4 runner no spark
    Hi, have a 93 4 runner ,6 cyl. All of a sudden won't start. Good fuel replaced igniter and coil ,also coil wire still no spark help please . Thanks
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #2

    Aug 7, 2010, 04:51 PM

    You've done a lot of good things, in attempting to get your 4 runner started. Try testing all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

    Also, check for power to the distributor. Were any codes thrown?
    chucke's Avatar
    chucke Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Aug 7, 2010, 04:55 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    You've done a lot of good things, in attempting to get your 4 runner started. Try testing all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

    Also, check for power to the distributor. Were any codes thrown?
    Ty I'll try that (fuses) how do you check power to the distributer? And codes??
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #4

    Aug 7, 2010, 05:11 PM

    kitch428 is our factory trained Toyota expert. He will undoubtedly see this posting soon and he will be able to tell you how to check for codes and give you his advice.

    Take a multimeter and check for power coming into the distributor. If there's none, check the ignition switch for wear, pitting, or melting.

    If the problem persists, there may be a problem with the distributor.
    chucke's Avatar
    chucke Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Aug 7, 2010, 05:30 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    kitch428 is our factory trained Toyota expert. He will undoubtedly see this posting soon and he will be able to tell you how to check for codes and give you his advice.

    Take a multimeter and check for power coming into the distributor. If there's none, check the ignition switch for wear, pitting, or melting.

    If the problem persists, there may be a problem with the distributor.
    OK ,thanks again Tx
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #6

    Aug 7, 2010, 05:35 PM

    Be very thorough in checking the fuses, since it will save a lot of time and money. Many people mistakenly blow through this process.
    kitch428's Avatar
    kitch428 Posts: 1,440, Reputation: 152
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    #7

    Aug 7, 2010, 05:51 PM

    Yes, an inexpensive test light is a great tool. Connect it to the negative terminal and go across each fuse. A mutimeter even better.
    Do you have a check engine light with key on?
    The EFI fuse under the hood is bad if it won't come on. There could be EFI problems. We'll diagnose those later.
    chucke's Avatar
    chucke Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
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    #8

    Aug 7, 2010, 06:38 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by kitch428 View Post
    yes, an inexpensive test light is a great tool. Connect it to the neg terminal and go across each fuse. A mutimeter even better.
    Do you have a check engine light with key on?
    The EFI fuse under the hood is bad if it won't come on. There could be EFI problems. We'll diagnose those later.
    Cool ,thanks I'll go get a meter tomorrow . Oh you the check engine light is always on after the heads were redone. Was told it probably has to do with the emissions... not sure. Thanks again, talk after the fuse check
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #9

    Aug 7, 2010, 06:52 PM

    If you want to go budget, a $2.99 test light from Harbor Freight will work. They also sell very inexpensive multimeters.

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