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barn_z · Jul 27, 2010, 05:51 AM

Hello.. I have a 1991 Honda accord that just got a head gasket re-done. Using a 12V light tester, I have power on the battery side (with a steady light), the other end of the coil wire I hear is supposed to pulse (on the ignition side) but I get no power or light. I've changed the distributor, spark plugs, wires, fuel pump, fuses.. I still get the check engine light, and no spark.. The tow truck guy says it's the igniter. Is that part inside the distributor?

TxGreaseMonkey · Jul 27, 2010, 06:50 AM

If the CEL comes on for 2 seconds and goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then the problem is with the distributor. Over 50% of new aftermarket distributors for Hondas don't work at AMHD. I only recommend genuine Honda distributors housings, where it's fine to install an aftermarket Ignition Control Module and coil, in order to keep the cost down.

barn_z · Jul 27, 2010, 09:47 AM

Thanks a lot for the quick response sir! Ive troubleshot, and picked up a coil initially.. It got power on the battery side, but on the test for the ignition side (where Im supposed to get a pulse) nothing happened.. So then I went with a whole new distributor. Im now thinking its my main relay. Im going to try that out when I get out of work and see what happens. If it's that, Im puttin on my old distributor to see if that works, and take back the new one. But the CEL just stays on.. It doesn't even go off..

TxGreaseMonkey · Jul 27, 2010, 10:03 AM

Since the CEL stays on, the problem is not with the distributor. Instead, the problem is with fuses, ECM, main relay, or ignition switch. A blown ACG (ALT) (S) fuse or bad ECM are usually to blame.

TxGreaseMonkey · Jul 27, 2010, 10:05 AM

. Test all under dash and under hood fuses with a test light or multimeter.

. Perform the K-Test on the ECM:

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

My bet is the ECM is toast.