[aftersox]

Hello everyone,

We are remodeling our kitchen. We've gotten through most of the tricky electrical work and have started installing cabinets.

We are soon to start installing the trickiest cabinet - the sink cabinet. Hopefully these images come through.

The drain column is going to be incredibly problematic. It is right in the way of many of the structural elements of the cabinet (the back of the cabinet is shown). I know a direct line to the roof is the best option, but I'm terribly afraid of cutting the line for fear of not being able to reconnect it.

The wall is also an issue. It's one-inch plaster on one-inch of dry-wall with a one inch gap then cinder block.

If you have had experience with similar installations, please advise!

Thanks!
-Jesse

[KISS]

I don't think it's as problematic as you think. The shutoff's have to be replaced anyway.

Any access from below so that you could replace the galvanized drain?

I'd cut the copper lines below the last fitting so you have nothing but pipes sticking up. Choose your cuts carefully with the galvanized. I doubt rotation would be a problem with the upper section.

Now, hopefully, you can drill holes for the pipes and add estucheuns for the penetrations and set it straight down. Yea, I see issues with the top vent, but careful chosing of cuts should work.

Re-do the cut out galvanized section with PVC and attach using no-hub (proflex) connectors. They look like a rubber sleave with a stainless outer jacket and hose clamps.

If you can easily replace the drain to the basement, do it.

Solder ball valves for the water shutoff's. Consider water dispensers, ice maker lines and dishwasher lines if required.

And even electrical for undercabinet lights like for the one your installing.

[aftersox]

There is access to the drainage through the crawlspace.

What do you mean by 'Choose your cuts carefully with the galvanized'?

Thanks for the response!

[KISS]

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By "careful cuts" I mean you have clearances to deal with and room for the couplings, garbage disposals, dishwahers, have enough and then some coming up from the floor, clearing the vent when lifting the cabinet etc.

[massplumber2008]

Hi Jesse...

Any other questions on this? Depending on just how involved you want to get I have all kinds of thoughts... ;)

I'll be popping in and out all weekend... let me know more.

Mark

[aftersox]

This will be our weekend project. There will certainly be more questions. =)

[aftersox]

Hi all,

I wanted to update you. We have taken much of the advice. We have cut off the water inlet below the first fitting and capped it for now. We removed the galvanized pipe down to where it connected into an elbow in the crawlspace. We replaced it with some PVC. The electrical box was removed and we have strung the wires into the cabinet.

We still have to add valves and connections for the dishwasher. There was no previous dishwasher, so we had to run a new electrical line. We also need to cut holes through the sink cabinet and the adjoining cabinet for the venting.

Thanks for the help. Now we need to figure out how to hook up this dishwasher. =)

[KISS]

There is a dishwasher fitting for the drain that fits on the bottom of the sink. Garbage disposers have a port that the dishwasher can use.

If allowed by code, you can use a "high loop", otherwise a dishwasher air gap must be used. The "high loop" is just running the drain as high up in the cabinet as possibe before hooking into the drain.

The air gap is installed in a hole in the sink.

Told you you have a lot of things to maneuver and think about.