[logan176]

Today:
Well I always tell my third graders that they learn more from their mistakes than they do their successes. Well, I guess I learned a lot today!

We were able to get the concrete poured, bull floated, and smoothed with the aluminum floats in one hour. Things were looking great... until we tried to use the edger. After the final smoothing we only waited about 15 minutes so that the water on top would evaporate. Out of the 30 feet I poured, I was only able to edge 20 feet. By that point the edger was just tearing up the sides and I was doing more harm than good.

When we assessed the situation we decided to start tearing up the last 8 feet of walkway (while it was still kind of soft) so that we could repour on another day. My advice to any novice trying to pour for the first time, only pour 20 feet at a time, but only try 15 feet if the temps are above the 80s.

Going Foward:
Tomorrow I will take a diamond blade to the walkway right before the bad section. I'll remove the forms and the plastic sheeting. I'll also keep it wet through the rest of the week. It is supposed to rain on and off for a few days so I will put the plastic back on when it rains. When everything hardens, I will take a diamond blade to cut in the control joints since the concrete was drying too fast today.

New Question:
How should I butt up today's pour with next week's pour? Since I'm taking a diamond blade to the edge, should I use one of those black fiber transition strips between the two pours?

[KISS]

Your going to have to use a transition strip. There doesn't appear to be any need to rebar them together. (drill and insert rebar)

[smearcase]

I agree with kiss. You might get some variation of the surface over time if you are in a freeze/thaw area but it shouldn't require any more than a little grinding at most if you were to get a bit of a trip hazard (and there is a good chance you won't). Just use a
1/2" expansion material.

Normally, bars would have been placed in the first pour protuding into the second pour but I think that drilling might do more damage than good and end up causing serious breakage because it's a relatively small depth (I know it didn't seem small when you were lugging concrete around).
You may be able to use a grinder to angle off the edge where the edger didn't work but only if you see a need.
I don't see burlap on the curing section. Just wetting and covering unless you do it every half hour or less in hot water won't stop cracking. Even old sheets or any cloth that can be soaked is good. Damp won't do, especially for strength.
Sawed joints are usually required within 24 hours or less or the damage may already be done. Did you mean you will put the plastic back on when the rain stops?

[logan176]

I wasn't able to find burlap yet, I'm going to look again tomorrow. I was going to put the burlap down as soon as the plastic came up and keep the burlap down for the remainder of the week. Should the plastic sheeting be up or down when it rains? As far as rebar goes, I put down rebar during the first pour and it should reach through into the new pour. I will try to be careful when breaking the rest.

What do you mean by sawed joints are required within 24 hours or the damage may already be done? Do you mean that I need to take the diamond blade and cut the 1" deep control joints within 24 hours?

[smearcase]

The joints help to control cracking due to changes in temperature mainly. The fresh concrete goes through more changes as it cures in the first several days, than it will probably go through at any other time. The jawed joints are needed during the cure time, and should be cut as soon as it can be done without damaging the concrete.
Our contractors placed fresh pavement during the day and put on a night shift that night to do the sawing.
Once the concrete has taken its initial set (hardens) rain should be good for it. Uncover it.
I personally think that a plastic/poly cover only, is like putting a bandaid on your nose before somebody smacks it with a twoxfour. It holds the heat in and can in some conditions magnify sunlight. The concrete needs to SLOWLY lose the water that went into the mix. If it loses it too fast, it may crack and not reach the strength intended.
The following link has been the Bible for concrete design and construction for a long time.
PCA - The Portland Cement Association

[logan176]

Day 2:
Okay, so now I have the damaged concrete removed and the base has been compacted again. I took off the forms from the sections of walkway that were in good shape. I am able to reuse the forms in the damaged area and more concrete is being delivered on either Thursday or Friday. I was able to cut the control joints within the 24 hour window and I found a light colored burlap that is now on top of the good portion of the walkway.

New Question:
Normally when someone plans on pouring in sections, the edge of the first pour is rounded where the transition strip will later be placed. From what I understand, the transition strip is then placed slightly below the surface, where the rounded edge stops. Once the final section has been poured, the edge that meets the transition strip on the other side is also rounded.

Since my situation did not allow for this rounding I have a straight edge from the diamond blade. When I repour should I just place the transition strip level with the top of the walkway since there is no rounded edge there? If so, would I also not round off the edge of the new pour where it meets the strip?

[smearcase]

I am not familiar with transition strips between old and new sections of concrete, just for tile and carpet, so I am going to assume it is expansion material or something similar.
I can only say that you want the joint to be "trip free" and the "whatever strip" should be flush.
Rounded edges (edging) are for appearance and to deter spalling. If the material in the joint is flush with the surface of both pours, appearance and spalling are no longer of concern in my opinion.
Any (and ALL) depressions left at the joint (unless filled in with a caulk and maintained forever) will become trip hazards-- it's just a matter of time and amount of traffic. Your sawed edges aren't rounded and I don't think you want it here. Leave the joint material high enough that you can cut it off flush after the concrete is hard.
Let us know how the job comes out and your "lessons learned" will help others and me.

[logan176]

You're right, when I said transition strip I meant expansion material. So the key to keeping the expansion material flush is pouring with the material sticking slightly higher than then walkway and once everything dries, go back and trim down with a knife... gotcha. This seems much easier than trying to hold the material flush with the surface while pouring!

[KISS]

You should be able to knock the edge off the concrete with an angle grinder.

[logan176]

Day 3: Entire Walkway Finally Poured
So as the concrete truck pulled up for the second time, the driver gave a little chuckle. He said he's been pouring concrete for 30 years and he's never heard of someone screwing up with only 10 feet to go. The driver was cool though, he helped with the screeding, since I was down a helper from the other day, and he gave me a few tips about edging. He said that as soon as I'm done with the floats use the edger right away. He said I'd still have to do it again but it would help to move some of the rocks away from the forms.

He was right. I probably edged 4-5 times total but everything looks great. In fact, this part of the walkway looks better than the first half. Soon I'll be posting a kind of cheat sheet for first time pourers like myself so hopefully they won't make the same mistakes as I did.

Next Stage of the Project: Stairs
I will be building a simple platform with one step that leads to my front door. I'll be building this from pressure treated lumber and composite decking for the floor boards. One side of the top landing will be bolted to the house, like you would do for a deck. The two front 4x4s will be mounted into the concrete using a bracket similar to the one in the picture below. How long should I wait before drilling into the new concrete and working on the stairs?

[smearcase]

Overall great job and you did your homework at every stage (I guess teachers know about that!)
Not criticizing:
Last joint closeup, next to last picture---looks like way too much of a stumbling block--somebody is going to check the hardness of the concrete with their nose. You may need that grinder kiss was talking about. Did you ever catch you toe on one of those and stumble along for 20 feet, hoping to stay on your feet but maybe not. Wheel chairs do a backward flip. If you don't fix it, keep the homeowner's insurance up to date. Sorry. You got the job about 95%, in the final checklist now.
Walking and working on the fresh concrete after 24 hours or less in these temps should not be a problem.
We should have put some anchor bolts in the fresh stuff instead of drilling. I would save the drilling until the last step(no pun?) if possible.
Anchors are tremendous pressure and it's prob near an edge. Can you hold off until the 7 day cure is over for that section? Or drill the holes carefully and slowly, maybe put the anchors in, snug the bolts/lags until you need a wrench and stop. Do something else until after the 7th day of cure. Concrete cures for years they claim (sidewalk maybe not so long). Everyday past 7 is good too. But if you tighten easy as possible I would try after the 7th day. You can brace the post to keep working.
Keep it soaked and I would tell you the same thing even if the temps were in the 50's or 60's.

[logan176]

What looks like a high joint is actually just the expansion material sticking up about a half inch out of the concrete. You said it would be easier to leave it high when pouring and then trim it after the concrete dries. I just haven't trimmed it yet.

As far as the drilling goes, I was planning on installing the brackets on day 12. I think the two brackets will require 1 or 2 screws each.

[smearcase]

That's one of those optical conclusions on my part. I sure did suggest you leave it high.
12 days sounds good for drilling but if close to the edge (within 8" or so) go easy, no hammer drills, get right bit size, match the lag screws to the anchor and maybe grease the lag screws. Enjoyed watching your project, progress.

[logan176]

Update:

The walkway and front steps are finished! I'm pretty happy with the way it all turned out. I really appreciate all the help you guys have given me. Here are the before and after pics.

[Stratmando]

Turned Out real nice. Good Job.

[smearcase]

Great job. That is the first I noticed the downspout outlet. Could that connect into the sump pump outlet pipe? Just thinking of ice on the walk but maybe you aren't in a cold area. Or maybe the downspout could drain in a different direction?

[logan176]

The downpour stops about 6" short of the walkway. Water drains to the left and doesn't cross the walkway.

I do have a question about sealing the concrete. Now that the leaves started falling some are leaving stains on the walkway. I don't want to seal the walkway now for fear that the stains will be sealed in place. I assume the staining will disappear over time due to weathering. Would the spring be a good time to seal the concrete?

[Stratmando]

I missed the downspout, have you considered a rain barrel of some sort?Out of the bottom could be used to water the garden.

[smearcase]

Governments are the biggest owners of sidewalks and I haven't seen any do any sidewalk concrete sealing. I wouldn't worry about it but if you are really ambitious, here's a method for cleaning. I think it will do more damage than good. All that scrubbing will loosen particles. If you can find a sealant that doesn't ruin traction, doesn't damage the concrete and isn't cost prohibitive, maybe.
Here's the cleaning procedures, but...
How to Clean Leaf Stains Off of Concrete | eHow.com