[grall]

I have a question guys, I had the set up with the aav picture, however, just received a new washing machine and the hose didn't fit into the pvc pipe. So I chopped off the top part and just dropped the washing machine hose into the pvc pipe. However, being a new machine and emptying at 17 gallons a minute the water backs up the pipe and out of the drain pipe all over my floor. Did the previous hookup prevent this from happening? Secondly, I have an old house and the pipe from the washing machine down through the floor to the line and into the ground seems to be lousy as far as getting rid of water quickly.

I guess I was wondering if it's a drain problem or what I did really screwed up the drainage of the water from the washing machine. I am not familiar with the venting and all that, but my system had the washing machine hooked up to the side of the pvc, o clamped and a sealed cap on top of the pvc pipe. Now the new machine is not using that system since I broke off the sealed top.

Thanks - plumber?

Tom,
That's your adapter I'm showing. Is that just a 1 1/2 trap adapter or is it a special adapter for the washing machine hose?


Well, its been working up until now, just leaking, right?

If you want to cover the venting aspect do this;

Change the reducer to a 2 X 1 1/2 X 1 1/2" sanitary tee;
Put a AAV in the top and the trap adapter in the side port

[Milo Dolezal]

Your drain is either undersized or is clogged. If undersized than change it to 2" pipe with 36" stand pipe. If clogged, have your drains cleaned. That will solve the problem.

[ballengerb1]

Agreed, newer washer really need the 2" pipe which is code. The Plumbing code recently even thought about increasing the size to 3" but did not. You need at least a 36" stand pipe and you can make a water tight connection using a combination of couplings

[hkstroud]

Not sure what your washer stand set up is but it sounds like you had a tee or a sanitary tee on the top of the pipe with the top of the tee sealed.

Also sounds like the pipe is either too small for the new washer or there is enough crud build up in the pipeing to restrict the flow.

One purpose of using the sealed connection is an attempt to overcome these problems.

Connect the washer hose to the side port using sealed connection and install the AAV in the top port to insure the venting.

[grall]

Agreed, newer washer really need the 2" pipe which is code. The Plumbing code recently even thought about increasing the size to 3" but did not. You need at least a 36" stand pipe and you can make a water tight connection using a combination of couplings

Hey Guys, Thanks for the answers, Therefore, I need to replace the 1.5" PVC pipe with 2" PVC pipe and then attach to my line plus clean out the line? Could you let me know a little more of why I just can't have the hose from the washing machine drop into the PVC Pipe? Thanks for your help and I was also interested in the purpose of a system that's all closed off like the picture showed. I have it set up now and it looks like a floor standpipe drain system but what's the diference between that and a floor drain system? Thanks

[ballengerb1]

A 1 1/2" pipe simply can not handle the rapid volume of water pumped out by the newer machines. To which picture do you refer?

[grall]

I was looking at that drawing that was one one of the previous posts, I have a plumber coming over tomorrow and I think it is definitely the drain toward the outside of the house, I'll get some pics up soon

[grall]

I enclosed some pictures of my pvc 1.5" in the basement, you'll notice that the drain pipe overflows even when I rigged up a hose to drain from my upstairs sink.

[hkstroud]

Are you saying that your problem is that water is backing up out of the floor drain?