[Stratmando]

Cronic, you NEED to make sure you have a good ground to the front, otherwise the Current can look for a ground through your fork bearings. Not good for bearings.

[cronic94]

cronic, you NEED to make sure you have a good ground to the front, otherwise the Current can look for a ground through your fork bearings. Not good for bearings.

I installed a ground wire from the front bolt of the gas tank mount and bolted it to the headlight mount. I noticed today that the headlight ground is attached to the turn signal flasher mount. I'm going to run a new ground all the way back to the frame. Thanks for your help!

[cronic94]

If it backfires out the exhaust that means it's rich if it spits back through the carbs that's lean. Low or high timing will cause backfire. Look at your plugs if they are black it's flooding! Make sure your point gap is correct because point gap or dwell will effect timing but timing will not effect dwell. So always set point or dwell before timing. I was trying to help the guy with the 57 pan head I must have posted in the wrong box. (Rookie)

[cronic94]

2002 Deuce EFI Installed brand new battery and next day completely dead. Installed another fully charged brand new battery and also next day completely dead. Did not leave ignition on and either.

What it could be?

Makes sure everything is turned off. Disconnect the negative battery cable at the battery and then touch it back to the post . If you see a strong spark something is pulling on the battery. Start disconnecting relays one at a time until you get no spark when you touch the cable back to the battery. Refer to your manual to see what that relay controls. Hope this helps you!

[Stratmando]

skrfevr, Alternators, Generators, Regulators and Rectifiers can fail and draw current.
Maybe disconnect the negative cable from the Battery, and hook a bulb or test light, 1 side to Battery Negative, the other to Battery Negative cable, if it lights you have a Load, Remove Fuses, Relays, and if the load is still there, disconnect charging components(alternator, regulator, regulator, rectifier). If still there, disconnect any Modules or components, until the light goes out.
Take note of fuse and relay locations.

[Stratmando]

Also, when the Battery is charged, and Bike running, Is the system charging?
(Higher running voltage then standing voltage)

[cronic94]

[QUOTE=cronic94;3462054]I installed a ground wire from the front bolt of the gas tank mount and bolted it to the headlight mount. I noticed today that the headlight ground is attached to the turn signal flasher mount. I'm going to run a new ground all the way back to the frame. Thanks for your help


Today I ran a new ground wire from the headlight back to the frame. For the first time in two years and god knows how many hours of work, I rode my bike without it missing. Thanks for all the help!

[Stratmando]

Good Deal

[denniskrug]

And especially if you push it 60, 70 miles an hour then it starts to sputter and start quiting almost as if either the ignition is being shut off or it's running out of gas. Then you have a hard time just to keep it running if you're going fast enough you can keep throatleing back and forth and it will run half assed but it'll keep sputtering and quiting or if you turn the ignition off throatle it and turn the ignition back on it'll keep going but still sputtering and quiting. If you pull over shut it down for a few seconds it'll start back up and run fairly good for a short time and start doing it again. I have replaced the ignition timming sensor, I've taken it in and had the carburator taken apart & cleaned, I've emptied the gas tank took the pit cock off and cleaned the inside of the tank and nothing has done a good enough job to stop this from happening. What can I do ?

[denniskrug]

I have a 1988 FLHS 1340cc that runs good until it warms up and especially if you push it 60, 70 miles an hour then it starts to sputter and start quiting almost as if either the ignition is being shut off or it's running out of gas. Then you have a hard time just to keep it running if you're going fast enough you can keep throatleing back and forth and it will run half assed but it'll keep sputtering and quiting or if you turn the ignition off throatle it and turn the ignition back on it'll keep going but still sputtering and quiting. If you pull over shut it down for a few seconds it'll start back up and run fairly good for a short time and start doing it again. I have replaced the ignition timming sensor, I've taken it in and had the carburator taken apart & cleaned, I've emptied the gas tank took the pit cock off and cleaned the inside of the tank and nothing has done a good enough job to stop this from happening. What can I do ?

[Stratmando]

Coils?

[denniskrug]

Well I thought about the coil and I also thought about the ignition modual but both of those are expensive and I'd sort of like to know before going through a trial and error situation. I've already gone through three idea's I put in a new ignition timming sensor, I had my carburator completely gone through and I completely flushed my gas tank and cleaned it out. I don't think it's a gas issue it seems electrical. I might just have to go through that trial & error process like it or not. I'm probably wrong but I'm leaning to ignition modual first because the ignition timming sensor went out completely and may have damaged the modual (I don't know)??

[cronic94]

I have a 1988 FLHS 1340cc that runs good until it warms up and especially if you push it 60, 70 miles an hour then it starts to sputter and start quiting almost as if either the ignition is being shut off or it's running out of gas. Then you have a hard time just to keep it running if you're going fast enough you can keep throatleing back and forth and it will run half assed but it'll keep sputtering and quiting or if you turn the ignition off throatle it and turn the ignition back on it'll keep going but still sputtering and quiting. If you pull over shut it down for a few seconds it'll start back up and run fairly good for a short time and start doing it again. I have replaced the ignition timming sensor, I've taken it in and had the carburator taken apart & cleaned, I've emptied the gas tank took the pit cock off and cleaned the inside of the tank and nothing has done a good enough job to stop this from happening. What can I do ?

Man I'm not saying you have the same problem I had with my bike but it sounds just like what I went through! Try unplugging you headlight and ride it down the road if it's headlight ground it will run fine with the headlight unplugged!

[denniskrug]

I tried what you suggested but it didn't do any good at all. I'm not saying that you are entirely wrong because it could be a bad ground wire somewhere but it's not the headlight :-) I now believe that I was wrong also thingking it's Ignition sensor or the Coil. I tried to go for a ride and it started to sputter right away when I started it up. I didn't even get but about a block down the road and it got so bad I had to come home and when I slowed to get in the drive way it stalled. From that point on I barely got it back in the garage. The difference this time was I left my pit cock open from the last time I rode. The gas tank that's on this bike isn't the original and I think it could be the coating on the inside is coming off and plugging up the pit cock. I already drained my gas tank took the pit cock off and flushed the tank once before but I think I might have to do it again and do a better job of it. I also think I'll get a new pit cock and gasline. That would be the cheapest way to go for now but I may still have to go back to my idea with the ignition sensor & coil. It's been a good bike until this but at this point I'm so pissed I could sell this thing for scrap iron !

[cronic94]

I tried what you suggested but it didn't do any good at all. I'm not saying that you are entirely wrong because it could be a bad ground wire somewhere but it's not the headlight :-) I now believe that I was wrong also thingking it's Ignition sensor or the Coil. I tried to go for a ride and it started to sputter right away when I started it up. I didn't even get but about a block down the road and it got so bad I had to come home and when I slowed to get in the drive way it stalled. From that point on I barely got it back in the garage. The differance this time was I left my pit cock open from the last time I rode. The gas tank that's on this bike isn't the original and I think it could be the coating on the inside is coming off and plugging up the pit cock. I already drained my gas tank took the pit cock off and flushed the tank once before but I think I might have to do it again and do a better job of it. I also think I'll get a new pit cock and gasline. That would be the cheapest way to go for now but I may still have to go back to my idea with the ignition sensor & coil. It's been a good bike until this but at this point I'm so pissed I could sell this thing for scrap iron !

I just bought a coil for my bike it was only $36.00 That is cheap for the peace of mind of knowing it's not the problem. You say you had your carburetor cleaned did they put a new diaphragm in it?

[denniskrug]

That was the main reason I had them go through my carburetor was to see if it had a bad diaphram and that was what they were looking for. When they cleaned my carburetor they checked all the parts and said they were all good . Next on the agenda is to rerplace the gas petcock and gas line and if that isn't it then I'll go to the coil, then the ignition module. I certainly won't know where to go after that if none work except to look for a bad ground wire somewhere and I've already touched on that by checking the headlight ground.
That was a good price on your coil the cheapest I've found for mine is $ 43.00.

[cronic94]

That was the main reason I had them go through my carburetor was to see if it had a bad diaphram and that was what they were looking for. When they cleaned my carburetor they checked all the parts and said they were all good . Next on the agenda is to rerplace the gas petcock and gas line and if that isn't it then I'll go to the coil, then the ignition module. I certainly won't know where to go after that if none work except to look for a bad ground wire somewhere and I've already touched on that by checking the headlight ground.
That was a good price on your coil the cheapest I've found for mine is $ 43.00.

I bought my coil from Frazier's Harley Davidson in Buford Georgia. My bike is a 1200 Sportster that might be why the price is different. Wish you luck!

[sadisdad66]

The horn, turn signals, and brake lights on my 2002 Harley XL1200C all quit working today at the same time. Any ideas why?

[cronic94]

The horn, turn signals, and brake lights on my 2002 Harley XL1200C all quit working today at the same time. Any ideas why?

I'm not a Harley mechanic I worked on cars and trucks for the last 35 years. I would take the seat off and check the relays with a test light. If they all check OK you might want to look at the wiring that goes into your handle bars behind your headlight. Most of the time when this many things happen at once it's a ground problem. So check all your grounds.

[Stratmando]

You could also hold horn button in and turn key back and forth to see if maybe a bad contact in the ignition switch, it may control a relay, or power back to Fuses for these circuits.