[hkstroud]

Adding the junction box would give you power but unswitched power. Some how you have to get down the wall to the switch unless you make the fan and light remote controlled

[tacmedic7248]

At this stage of the game I've got a hole in my ceiling with BX hanging out of the brace's junction box. I'm OK with losing switch functionality, I was thinking of adding a remote anyway.

[tacmedic7248]

I just want to make sure I have this right. If I cut the cable in question in the attic, I use a junction box. What specific type box should I use old work or new work? I would assume new, but that's why I'm here! Also is it safe to say I wire all blacks, all reds, all grounds to the new BX from fan. If I cut the cable and it falls short to connect it to the BX am I allowed to use small spare wire to "patch" it together?

[hkstroud]

An "old work" box is an electrical box with tabs or ears at the top and bottom and some type of clamping mechanism. They are made to clamp to the wall surface.

A "new work" box is one designed to be mounted to the structural members (studs and joist).

I would think you would just use a round, square or octagonal box mounted to a joist.

Why do you want to use BX or metal clad cable. Do you have some local code requirements. Suggest you just use Romex.

Would like to see a picture of the area where the existing gable goes down the wall. I'm having trouble imagining a situation where you can't get another hole in the top plate to get the cable down the wall.

[tacmedic7248]

I will take pictures this weekend and upload them. BX is not a code requirement but it's in the attic running across joists so I figured it would be better protected. Will advise when photos are up.

[hkstroud]

Is this something like you have?

[tacmedic7248]

That's pretty much spot on to what I have, except that the 2x4 is flat and the joists run in the opposite direction. To give you a better mental picture, the cable is towards the front of the 2x4.

[hkstroud]

..

[tacmedic7248]

Yeah, that's pretty much our setup. Except in our attic there's a lot of boards so you don't fall through the ceiling, and tons of crap nobody uses! Lol

[hkstroud]

So why can't you drill another hole along side the one that the cable goes through and drop a second cable to the switch?

[tacmedic7248]

I had thought about it but didn't think there would be room. The switch box is nailed to the stud at the door post and a stud or fire break on its left. I have a funny feeling that if I make the hole it won't drop right down to the switch.

[tacmedic7248]

This is what it looks like...

[hkstroud]

Drilling through the 2x4 and the top wall plate should not be a problem. The problem will be the size of the box the switch is in. With the 2-wire cable and the 3-wire cable you already have and the 3-wire cable you will be adding you need 22.5 cubic inches. The largest regular switch box is 22 cubic inches. You may be able to find a box with a side compartment.
Otherwise you will have to use a square box with single switch cover.
You probably have a small metal switch box. You are going to have to do some drywall repair.
Purchase a 4" square box and a 1/2" rise cover like the ones shown . Note that a square box is not the same as a two-gang box. The cover only fits the square box. Remove the nails. I would also cut off the nailing tabs. You may be able to find a square box with out the nails.

Place box over existing switch and mark. Cut out drywall. Also cut out drywall over the stud so that the nailing tab on the side can be nailed directly to the stud. Loosen cable clamps in existing box. Pry box away from stud. Remove wires from box.

Up in the attic drill through the 2x4 and the top wall plate with a 5/8 or 3/4 spade bit. If there is a fire break above the switch location purchase 3 16" drill bit extensions and drill through fire break. Tie a nylon cord to the drill bit and pull up the wall as you pull the drill bit and extensions out. Use cord to pull new cable down the wall through the fire break.

Put all the cables in the new box and nail to stud. Strip back sheathing and make all wiring connections except for the switch. Put cover on the box. The opening for the switch should be flush with the drywall.

Make drywall repairs. Install switch and make fan/ light connections.

The existing cable is not BX, it is just the old type of non metallic sheath cable that Romex replaced.

[tacmedic7248]

That seems like the easiest way given there's no room in the existing box. Now how would I go about making the outlet independent of switch if it has two white wires?

[hkstroud]

When you rewire the switch, you will wire it such that the outlet will be independent.