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    constructiondjw's Avatar
    constructiondjw Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Feb 6, 2010, 04:55 PM
    Heat Pump blows 5amp fuse when switching between defrost & back to heat. Em Heat work
    I have a Carrier Heat Pump System. It’s about 5 years old and has functioned OK until this Christmas Eve. One problem is the condensing unit is not kicking back on after it goes into defrost mode. I found a 5AMP fuse blown in the attic unit and once replaced it functioned. At least for a day or two (I’m guessing until it went into defrost mode again). My thermostat blinks “heat on” but will not communicate to turn the heat pump back on (regardless of timeframe). The “on” fan will kick on if done at the thermostat but not “auto” (in heat mode). When I go to “Em Heat” it kicks on immediately & works as intended. I’ve learned it heats better than nothing. I had a few local Heating & Air guys come out to service/fix etc. One of the two companies went to get parts on the 3rd of January….. guess he’s not coming back. 2nd guy was here 30 min, pumped $600 of Freon in the system and was gone before I could get home from work (30 min away). He also found and fixed something loose up close to the breaker that has blown a few times. It worked a week (warmer weather) then more of the same. When I went up to change the fuse in the attic it was not blown. When I turned the breaker back on located on the attic unit it starting working (had left the thermostat set to “heat”). Only thing I can come up with is loose wires or circuit board?? Later that night I had to go back to Em. Heat and can’t seem to rattle it back to life. Can you damage by overcharging the system? Tech told me no leaks in system-if installed correctly 5 years ago is that possible? Wow……………….that ended up more like a novel!? Any direction would be appreciated…….its cold!
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
    Heating & Air Conditioning Expert
     
    #2

    Feb 6, 2010, 05:07 PM
    You had a visit from the gas in a flash service man I see and he nailed you for 600.00 to boot. I do not know off hand how much gas (refrigerant) your system will hold but I am sure you were ripped off.

    What you need to do is find a real service person to repair your unit. There have been too many different service people at your home especially with the gas passer that now it should be completely gone over since it is probably over charged at this point.

    Sorry to be just stating the facts but there has to be someone reputable in your area. Ask your neighbors or friends who they use for service since the key to your problem is finding a knowledgeable person to work on your unit.

    This is the best advice I can give you under these circumstances.


    NOTE: Your fuse problem is possibly being caused by a short circuit. It could be in the low voltage wiring going to the outside unit or elsewhere or in a electric component in the outside or inside unit.
    constructiondjw's Avatar
    constructiondjw Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Feb 7, 2010, 10:22 AM

    I found a short in a wire running from the Air Handler fan control board anf repaired it…….. I believe I'm past that. Question:Is the (Carrier OEM 230/24 Volt Transformer Code:TRA01CN236) designed to run warm & buzz? It was still pretty warm 10-20 min after I shut Em Heat off. I noticed a noise and traced it back to the volt transformer then looked it up. The air handler is a FA4ANF060 – 5 TON, 10 SEER. The outside unit outside calls for a Compressor lock out Circuit Board(Bryant Carrier) Code:CIB660014). I'm guessing this is the part I need to address next? I plan on R&R myself……any warnings or tools of the trade needed? Will I gain anything by replacing the compressor while I'm at it?
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
    Heating & Air Conditioning Expert
     
    #4

    Feb 7, 2010, 11:29 AM
    The next thing you need to address is the possible overcharge of refrigerant. If overcharged it is not good for the unit.

    Tell me again why are you replacing the compressor lockout board?

    It is normal for a transformer to be warm and they do hum a bit sometimes. It does take a tester to see if the low voltage circuit is drawing to many VA effecting the transformer.

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