[TEAMKLR2BAR]

All of the instructions have been followed to the T except the cutting of the jumper wire. The reason I didn't cut it is because it didn't make any sense to me. It is a wire attached to the circuit board on one end with the other end un-attached to anything. All that cutting it will do is make the same wire shorter. It will not stop a signal or anything, just make the existing wire shorter. I can send you a picture if you want me to. Just tell me where to send it to. I can also text it to you. I am hesitant to cut this wire because if the box is bad I would hate to not be able to return it because I cut a wire. If both ends were attached to something it would make more sense but since one end is just open I don't see what it will do to help, "logically". I am not arguing with you just trying to understand. Thank you!!

[hvac1000]

Post picture here. Go to advanced then to paperclip then browse your puter for pic and up load.

[TEAMKLR2BAR]

The green wire was supposed to be grounded, this is the "L2" wire, I made a new ground and attached it, this ground does show continuity between it and the existing grounds in the system.

The Black wire that you see me holding in the second picture is the jumper wire that we are discussing. As you see, it has a Male spade connector that is not hooked to anything. NOTE: when I opened the box this jumper wire was actually attached to the FP terminal on the box.

[hvac1000]

OK if you have a flame sensor you do not need to connect that wire. Just tape it off. The instructions say to cut it off for a reason only the manufacturer knows but it is probably to eliminate the possibility of someone at a later date and time trying to figure out why it is not connected if you know what I mean. If all else is wired as per the drawing and the correct program key is installed then you should be good to go.
Make sure the flame sensor is clean.

[hvac1000]

Ps mount that control in a professional manner and clean up the wiring so it looks good. You can leave the flame sensor wire separate since it does not take much induction electric from the other wires to screw it up.

[TEAMKLR2BAR]

I will deffinatley be cleaing up the install and making it look nice. I want to make sure everything works first. I have checked and double checked the wiring and everything seems to be done properly. There is a device that is mounted on the same plate that the old control box "50E47-60" is mounted to that I am not sure what it is. It is in the pictures that follow, it is black with anumber of wires going to it. The first picture shows some black and red wires going to it. Do you know what this is just by looking?

[TEAMKLR2BAR]

Here they are. I also thought of changing the ignitor wiring from the Figure 1 to the figure 3 as illustrated in the file that you sent me, what do you think?

[hvac1000]

Any name on it?

Any numbers on it?

Looks like relay or time delay.

What is it wired into

[TEAMKLR2BAR]

I can't see it right now but just about everything hooks to it. The MV1 and MV2 wires that are hooked to the 50E47 go directly to this unit, it also hooks to the switch for the vent/evacuation fan, the main gas valve and also to the Honewell unit that I am including a picture of.

[TEAMKLR2BAR]

Here they are

[hvac1000]

You better leave it hooked up. Without a wiring diagram I would hesitate to say because it would just be an educated guess. Stay on message and get the furnace running then we will worry about the other part.

[TEAMKLR2BAR]

Well, what say you about hooking the HSI as shown in figure #3 vs. figure #1 using the pg0274_277.pdf file that you sent me. (this file is the copy of the manual that I received with the new unit 50E47-843)

[hvac1000]

I really do not understand your question since I always follow the directions exactly as stated.

Are you trying to be an engineer?

Are you trying to out guess the manufacturer?

The part you purchased is universal part that is designed to replace many different types of systems available on the market. According to the manufacturer of this part it is to be installed as a carbon copy of the existing system design that was used in your furnace as manufactured to start with and NOT changed. (This is the reason they wanted the wire cut so no one would be able to play change around with the system later) I have a hard time with the fact that you read the directions and did not understand that fact. You are mentally messing around with a machine that can become real dangerous if not repaired properly.

If the system came in the furnace with a flame sensor that is what it goes back with.

If not then it is direct sense.

It is all in black and white right there in front of you on the directions.

YOU do not change the design to suit yourself since more goes into the engineering of this item than you know.

At this point it all comes down to a simple fact. You either follow the directions that came with the board/module you purchased as a replacement for the original or you do something else.

There comes a time in a help session when a poster will try and wear down a person who is trying to help them by asking off the wall questions and then not liking the answer they get they rephrase the question or ask something a bit different. We are at that point now so I suggest your follow the directions as provided by the manufacturer of your new module/ controller board OR call in a local HVAC company so they can see exactly what is going on and then play with your system following your desires. They should have the proper meters to test any system change you want to do if you can get them to do it. Liability insurance is real expensive so I doubt if they will change from the original system design. I am sorry but I do not play that game in this venue when it comes to safety.

Things can get a bit nasty when the directions are not followed.

[TEAMKLR2BAR]

I like the picture but let me clear up some things. I am asking about changing this because the box that I bought seems to output proper voltage across the terminals shown in fig 3 vs fig 1 that as we have seen is not working. I actually am an engineer but no HVAC guru. ;-) It seems I have frustrated you and for that I apologize. I am going to mess with it again tomorrow and then I will get a tech out to fix it if I can't fix it. If you ever have a queastion about Hondas, volvos, turbos, tuning engine management systems, or any questions about aircraft repair or piloting feel free to contact me directly, those are my areas of expeetise. Not HVAC haha thank you for your time. Mace [email protected]

[hvac1000]

I think what you are talking about is covered in the directions. Read the box (terminal wire cross ref) Both setups use flame sense and HSI so give it a try. NOTE if she runs OK then test the safety of the control by removing the flame sense wire while in operation. It should drop the gas valve out pronto.

P.E. here stamp and all. I teach HVAC sometimes at the university when I feel like it since I am actually retired from my HVAC biz.

I think you understood what I was getting to. We never know who we are helping here and that further complicates the situation.

[TEAMKLR2BAR]

I do understand and again thank you for the help. I have not had a chance to mess with it again as of yet. Good thing is I have a good fireplace and am able to keep the house warm with it. I will update later once I have the system fixed and running.

[hvac1000]

Ok