[DDave]

Tom, how are you today? I had to move the location of my new shower stall due to room concerns. Here is my question. Can I come off th shower base drain with a long sweep elbow and travel 24 inches or so before I connect to the p-trap or do I have to drop directly into the p-trap from the shower base? If I can do the 24 inch travel it will make my install much simpler for me so I won't have to work at a long reach under my floor. Thanks Tom, have a great day. Dave

[speedball1]

Good morning Dave and welcome back, Ok, if you pick up the shower with a drainage ell, (doesn't have to be a long sweep) you will have a two foot horzontal run to the "P" trap, right? So what now? Have you ever heard of a running trap? This is a trap we build out of elbows. It looks just like a "U" with the inlet and the outlet at the same elevation. If you install a running trap you will have a clear shot at the vent stack. Did you pull a permit on this remodel? If you didn't, don't sweat the small stuff. You're trapped and vented. That's all that matters. Cheers, Tom

[DDave]

Thanks for the info tom! It is greatly appr. No I did not get a permit but I am still trying to stay within the guidelines. It is kind od hard to do sometimes in a house that's 120 years old. My prodject is coming along nicely though. Thanks again Tom. Dave

[DDave]

Tom, it looks to me like your advice for the running trap will work really well in my case. My only point of concern is the standing water in the trap on a glued joint. Is there any real reason for me to think it will leak sometime down the road? The area of install is not going to be accesable with out tearing up the floor {not good} or tearing out the ceilling of my dining room. What do you think? Thanks Tom, have a good one. Dave

[speedball1]

Hi Dave, just make sure the Trap is at least 2" deep and be sure to use PVC primer on the glue joints and you'll be fine.