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CoB_hatecrew · Dec 2, 2006, 03:21 PM

There's no current through it at all

TxGreaseMonkey · Dec 2, 2006, 05:56 PM

Did you turn your ignition switch to ON, before you checked for voltage between terminal 5 of the main relay connector and ground?

If you did, we are back to the fuse issue. Again, check for an ACG (S) fuse--it might be the second fuse in from the top right. Look at the fuse box cover for its location. Make sure and test fuses with your meter, so you don't put one back in the wrong slot. If you are sure all under-dash fuses are good, then it appears your ignition switch is bad. We are very close to solving this, though!

CoB_hatecrew · Dec 2, 2006, 07:23 PM

Why would the ignition switch be bad... the car turns over it just won't fire

CoB_hatecrew · Dec 2, 2006, 07:28 PM

And would it be just the key or the entire assembly?

TxGreaseMonkey · Dec 2, 2006, 07:46 PM

Here's the flow: battery to under-hood fuse box to ignition switch to under-dash fuse box to terminal 5 of the main relay connector. You say you aren't getting voltage at terminal 5, so it has to be a fuse, an open in the harness between the under-dash fuse box and terminal 5, or a bad ignition switch. The liklihood of a harness problem is not very great. The problem would be with the switch, not the lock.

After this, I don't have any other ideas. If you ran your tests properly, your problem resides in this area.

CoB_hatecrew · Dec 2, 2006, 07:48 PM

I've checked every single fuse in the car all of them are good... so your saying the ignition switch is the most likely problem that's keeping power from going to the main relay and such?

CoB_hatecrew · Dec 2, 2006, 07:50 PM

Could it be the tumbler.. or the place u turn the key or the rod in the steering column?

TxGreaseMonkey · Dec 2, 2006, 07:51 PM

It is this component:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductL...arter%20Switch

TxGreaseMonkey · Dec 2, 2006, 07:53 PM

You can pull the old switch apart and probably see major contact wear. It's a high wear component.

Do you see an ACG (S) (ALT) fuse on the under-dash fuse box cover? One guy I helped once had a "buddy" remove this fuse as a prank, because he knew how significant it was, and it totally stumped this Naval aircraft mechanic until I figured it out for him.

Take your meter and start tracing the voltage back to the battery, starting from terminal 5 of the main relay connector.

HERE'S HOW I SEE IT: IF YOU TURN THE IGNITION SWITCH TO ON AND DON'T MEASURE ANY VOLTAGE BETWEEN TERMINAL 5 AND BODY GROUND, YOU NEED TO REPLACE A BAD ACG (ALT) (S) 15 AMP FUSE, IN THE UNDER-DASH FUSE BOX, OR REPAIR AN OPEN IN THE WIRE BETWEEN THE MAIN RELAY AND THE ACG (ALT) (S) 15 AMP FUSE.

Don't mess with the ignition switch, yet.

CoB_hatecrew · Dec 3, 2006, 08:33 AM

I've checked and checked and checked the fuses all of them are good... under dash and under hood, on the diagram on the back of the fuse box cover there is a single alt 15 fuse and it is still goodso its either the wires from the fuse to the relay from the fuse box or the wire leading to the underdash fuse box to the fuse that powers the relay... or ignition switch wear, because it probably hasn't been changed since 1990 and it has over 200k miles

TxGreaseMonkey · Dec 3, 2006, 01:16 PM

Yes, that's how it appears to me.

CoB_hatecrew · Dec 5, 2006, 12:57 PM

Can I test the wire going from the fuse box to the main relay with an ohm tester?

TxGreaseMonkey · Dec 5, 2006, 01:50 PM

Only if you disconnect the negative battery terminal first; otherwise, you will blow the fuse in your DMM.

smoke69 · Dec 11, 2006, 01:27 AM

Hello I have become very impatient with my vehicle and it seems like many of you are also. It is a 91 Honda civic si and has 234,000 miles on it. I bought it about 3 months ago and for the first month and a half it worked perfectly. One day the clutch went out completely, as I was driving on the freeway and lucky got a free tow from a random person. I took it in to a mechanic and had the clutch and ball joints replaced. A month after, in 5th gear it completely shut off and I could not start it. Right before this happened I changed out spark plugs, ds cap+rotor. A week later I changed the ICM and nothing. Returned it for the coil and BAM it started right up. I thought I was going to be scotch free but 2 weeks later it died on the road again. I let it sit there for 7 hours and came back to tow it. Apparently it started and drove perfect ALL the way home. It drove good for about a week then again like other people have said, I had to idal at stop lights because it felt like I was loseing power from the rpms. Parked t for a day and it has not worked since. I bought a New main relay and still no help. Since I tried ICM, coi,l this cap + rotor, spark plugs, main relay. It still does not start. I have read over 100 post and I have yet to come up with a solution. Any help would be good. Another thing is I am not getting power from the dizzy at all. And I hear 2 clicks after check engine, hear fuel pump.

smoke69 · Dec 11, 2006, 01:35 AM

Another thing to add is that when it was still working, I revved it past 5000 rpms and the check engine would go on then off after 3 secs. Right before the car died I heard Really hard screching noises. Then it satted loseing power badly.

TxGreaseMonkey · Dec 11, 2006, 07:44 AM

1. The high revving could have finished off the distributor bearing, which was possibly heading for failure anyhow. Could this have been the screech you heard? If so, distributor sensors may have been affected. Consider installing a new distributor housing. This is real common on Civics (sealed bearings only last so long).

2. Check out MAP sensor.

3. Perform K-Test on ECM (see FAQ).

smoke69 · Dec 11, 2006, 04:55 PM

I got it to work. I unpluged then repluged the ICM. Works good for now, I will update it there are any other problems

smoke69 · Dec 12, 2006, 01:43 PM

Is there something I should put on the tips of the ICM metal tips since I unpluges and repluged them. I read from other fourms that once you take out the ICM you shuld grease it up? What material and where should I buy it. Also where specifically on the part do I put this stuff.

TxGreaseMonkey · Dec 12, 2006, 02:26 PM

I believe your problem is that the female connectors, going to the igniter, need to be crimped a little, because they get loose over time. Coat the back of the igniter, and the four male connectors, with silicone grease. It's available at most auto part stores.

CoB_hatecrew · Dec 15, 2006, 07:10 AM

Hey tx, a lot of the things controlled by the underdash fuse box still work... could it still be the ignition switch? Sorry hondas are a new thing for me, but I figured that when I turn the key there is a black box on the fuse box that clicks when it gets power... I'm just lost and confused on this car