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woodyGuy · Sep 8, 2009, 02:13 PM

Kiss,

Not sure I want to spend that kind of cash just to run this motor.

I will try what was discussed earlier and let you know.

BTW Harold, I did get an answer to your suggestion about going to Leeson for wiring connections.

How do you determine which way or from which direction to know the CW or CCW rotation of the motor?

KISS · Sep 8, 2009, 02:30 PM

The thermal overload in the motor is probably fine.

Harold said the connections are on the motor, which they are. They are also on the document that I posted a while back. Just the direction is wrong. Need to use the high voltage CCW wiring.

I did say USUALLY it is determined when facing the motor shaft. It's not always true though. I can back out the right connections for 230 because I know the 115 connections. You do too on the motor nameplate.

woodyGuy · Sep 8, 2009, 02:56 PM

This PDF is what I got from the Leeson Electric Rep.

Please take a look and help me to wire this motor properly so
I can use it in my garage?

Tablesaw_MOTOR-005067.pdf[ATTACH]

KISS · Sep 8, 2009, 04:04 PM

Use Hi Volt C.W. on the diagram. They reference the rotation as Lead end (Where the wires come out).

L1 and L2 are Line #1 and Line #2 and they go to the switch. Note that P1 stays the same. That was probably your black wire.

T4 and T8 are tied together and go to the switch. (was T2,T4,T8)
The other side of the switch stays the same. (black?)

T2, T3 and T5 get joined together. i.e. P2 gets removed and replaced with T2

P2 is left over and it just gets capped.

woodyGuy · Sep 8, 2009, 04:58 PM

So I shouldn't add a new 1P, 20AMP w/12AWG with a dedicated outlet to be able to run it properly?

BTW, I extended a cord to my laundry room where the 1P, 20AMP is located and the table saw motor didn't trip it...

I have the duplex outlet and wire, just need the breaker(cash is very tight now). Same amount of work here for either.

I know that at 80% of 125/115 the FLA will be 16.3 or so, but isn't that only at the start point?

KISS · Sep 8, 2009, 05:57 PM

Originally Posted by ;

So I shouldn't add a new 1P, 20AMP w/12AWG with a dedicated outlet to be able to run it properly?

Running a dedicated line would be preferred as above. 240 is preferred. Means less heat, less wear and tear.

BTW, I extended a cord to my laundry room where the 1P, 20AMP is located and the table saw motor didn't trip it...

Finally getting somewhere.

I have the duplex outlet and wire, just need the breaker(cash is very tight now). Same amount of work here for either.

Understand that. If that's a dedicated laundry circuit, you can pigtail the garage circuit and the laundry circuit until you get the $ for a breaker. I see where 240 V will cost you more up front.

I know that at 80% of 125/115 the FLA will be 16.3 or so, but isn't that only at the start point?

You mean 125/115 * 15 = 16.3 A; slightly higher voltage, slightly higher current thus wire size must be 12 AWG. The 16.3 A is at at 1.5 HP and 125 V and it's a guess.

It's not a continuous load (expected to be on for 3 hrs or more at a time) so the 80% stuff doesn't apply.

The higher the current, the higher the heat generated in the contacts of say the thermal switch the power switch, the plug/socket. P (watts) = I^2*R so it's more important to keep contact resistance low. There is a big difference between 15^2 and 7.5^2. R will likely be in the milliohm range.

That's why 240 makes more sense.