Check out some similar questions!

Milo Dolezal · Sep 9, 2009, 12:14 PM

Are you sure you have to pay for it ? It should be covered by the cost of the permit. Maybe you should call Building Dept. and ask...

massplumber2008 · Sep 9, 2009, 02:14 PM

Hi all:

If it hasn't already been mentioned, don't forget to install the ANTI-TIP DEVICE. This anti-tip device as well as the shutoff and the correct flexi. Connector are what the inspector looks for... ;)

Glad you're all set!

MARK

bahomeowner · Sep 17, 2009, 01:14 PM

Hi All

I finally got the mechanical inspection done and approved and I am all set. I would like to take this oppurtunity to thank all the experts and their invaluable guidance to helping me pull through and getting the final approval with this permit.

Thanks a lot and your help...

Bahomeowner.

mygirlsdad77 · Sep 17, 2009, 03:33 PM

Glad to hear things worked out.

afaroo · Sep 17, 2009, 07:27 PM

Thanks for the info.

HawgFan · Oct 6, 2009, 07:30 PM

Hello all. I'm in a simlar situation as bahomeowner. I'm finishing my basement and I've installed a gas fireplace. Luckily there is a gas fireplace above it on the main floor and when it was installed the builder left one side of a tee valve capped off for a basement fireplace if desired. I've installed the fireplace with no issues and ready for the air pressure test.

Like an idiot, I tried to pressurize my gas pipes (from the new fireplace location) without first plugging the gas line at the meter (I simply turned off the intake valve). I sat there forever wondering why no air pressure reading would register on the air gauge, while I'm sure air was simply spewing out of the regulator outside.

I have a pretty standard gas meter (no meter bar across the top). I plan to disconnect the outlet union, plug it, then conduct my test.

My questions:
Mark mentions using TWO wrenches when disconnecting the union fittings at the meter... why?
I assume the union fittings are compression? And they don't require pipe dope when reattaching?

The meter appears to still be working OK after blowing tons of air the opposite direction through it... I'll keep my fingers crossed!

Thanks!
DJ

hkstroud · Oct 6, 2009, 10:44 PM

..

snoman69 · Jan 24, 2010, 06:11 PM

Some very valuable information here.

I just had a gas line installed (professionally) and have a few questions.

BTW - It has already passed inspection.

How long does it need to hold the 10lbs of pressure. Is it acceptable to have 10lbs of pressure and over 3 days have it drop to 5lbs? This is what mine has done. The weather here in Colorado does fluctuate quite a bite if that matters. Has been quite cold at night and warms during the day. I am hesitant to install the gas stove and potentially have a leak...

Thanks in advance for your help.

Allen

ballengerb1 · Jan 24, 2010, 07:06 PM

OK guys stop here, Allen has also figured out not to piggyback on a 4 page post of someone else. He has asked this question in a new post

mygirlsdad77 · Jan 24, 2010, 07:52 PM

But I love piggyback rides.

Zipher · Feb 25, 2012, 03:48 PM

I am also in the process of performing a pressure test for inspection. I have "Two outlets"
Can some one please highlight the steps? It was never listed.

(Also some extra questions just incase)

1)Do I pressure test from the meter-- The Pipe connected to the outlet pipe (Do I have to remove the union on the meter outlet)

2)Do I have to perform the test from the end of the lines before the appliance but after the shut off before I connect the appliance.

3)Can I pressure test from one of the ends of the new lines and have an appliace connected to the other new line outlet with its valve shut off.

I sincerely appreciate a response.

Amopower · Jun 15, 2015, 06:03 PM

Milo - very old thread here, not sure f you are still around, but when you said:
"Gas meters in my area have pressure regulator installed on left side of the meter. The regulator reduces incoming gas pressure to 0.3 psi. If you happen to have such a pressure regulator on your gas meter than all pressure you are trying to put in is most likely escaping through the regulator. "

Does that regulator work both ways, in other words if the pressure test was started at the end of the new run, pushing air back up to the meter, will this regulator do the same thing, and expel the excess? I have read others say that you can blow the diaphragm on the meter, but are they talking about the ones without this regulator?

Milo Dolezal · Jun 15, 2015, 07:05 PM

Amopower, welcome back. Yes, I am still here...

Gas meter, and everything on the LEFT side of the meter belongs to the Gas Company. You don't submit gas meter and / or plumbing LEFT of the gas meter to pressure test. You do test gas pipes on the right side of the gas meter.

If this is remodel, and gas meter is installed, you just unscrew right union connecting gas meter and house plumbing, and either cap off the house end or put pressure gauge on it and pressurize the house side. You DO NOT put gas meter under pressure.

I cannot really talk about whether pressure regulator will hold or expel pressure when pressurized backwards as I have never done it nor was I ever required to do such test. In fact, I am not even allowed to do such test on City's equipment. Same applies to the gas meter.

Hope that explains

Milo

Amopower · Jun 16, 2015, 05:06 AM

Yes, thanks a lot for replying. Luckily for me, when I tried to pressurize without disconnecting the meter, I could not get any pressure to register at all on the gauge, it was like the line was entirely open. (read 0psi while trying to pressurize slowly). I am confident nothing was ruptured, it never had a chance to. I suspect this is the same situation as the guy in post 4, the air would just escape through the regulator. I will go out and get a union, nipple and cap for the right side of the meter and do it the right way. Hopefully there's nothing special about the existing union to the meter where I would be unable to get a matching one.

Milo Dolezal · Jun 16, 2015, 09:02 AM

Originally Posted by Amopower

Yes, thanks a lot for replying. Luckily for me, when I tried to pressurize without disconnecting the meter, I could not get any pressure to register at all on the gauge, it was like the line was entirely open. (read 0psi while trying to pressurize slowly). I am confident nothing was ruptured, it never had a chance to. I suspect this is the same situation as the guy in post 4, the air would just escape through the regulator. I will go out and get a union, nipple and cap for the right side of the meter and do it the right way. Hopefully there's nothing special about the existing union to the meter where I would be unable to get a matching one.

One more detail: If you have already installed gas valves ( gas cocks ) at each appliance - remove them and cap off the end of the pipe with a pipe cap. Most of the gas valves will not hold pressure - especially the aluminum ones - as they are designed to hold only about 3 PSI of pressure.

Good luck with your test !

Milo

Amopower · Jun 16, 2015, 11:37 AM

Thanks, yes I had read that above as well. I find it a bit ironic though that in order to pressure test the new run, you have to disconnect several older runs, possibly introducing NEW leaks you never had before. (but yes I understand very well why it is mentioned, if the valves are possible leak points themselves, then you cannot really test with confidence). It's too bad the fuel gas code does not mandate valves with stronger pressure capabilities, so that opening up lines can be avoided. Seems odd to me too that you have water valves that can withhold up to 180psi, yet the gas valves are so much lower.

Milo Dolezal · Jun 16, 2015, 03:14 PM

For years, we use ball valves rated for Natural Gas at each appliance. That way we can install all appliances before inspection is done, close valves, and run the test. After the job is inspected, we just open ball valves. No tools needed

These ball valves are rated for high pressure.

Also, when connecting new gas line to existing gas line, we always install ball valve at the point of connection. That way, we don't have to mess with disconnecting and reconnecting gas pipes. Again, we close ball valves isolating new and old and open them after inspection. Note: every valve has to be accessible. So if it is buried inside wall, you will need to install service door. But it is OK in places like under the house where such is easily accessible

Hope that helps

Milo

Amopower · Jun 16, 2015, 05:36 PM

Thanks Milo. I didn't realize the ball valves were not what you were referring to when you mentioned gas valves (gas cocks)... Both the appliances here have what appear to be ball valves leading to them (they only turn 90 degrees).
I couldn't put a valve right at the new line beginning, as the new beginning is in a crawl space and I understand valves need to be accessible. (although I would still have one at the other end - the appliance end - but reading the code I think they mean ALL valves need to be accessible, even the unnecessary ones.)

I am on hold with the pressure test for now. I got the meter couplings undone, but when I tried to remove the nipple/couple on the outlet side to insert a capped nipple in its place, I was worried about the force I was applying to the coupling nipple and it was still not moving. (perhaps it has been there since the house was made in 1968). Last thing I want is for something to crack, but I have no idea what is "normal" in terms of how much force you need to apply, so I am waiting for another more experienced guy to come over tomorrow. It's galvanized and doesn't look corroded, but who knows what the insides are like.
(AC-250 meter)

Amopower · Jun 17, 2015, 02:37 PM

Well I got the test done, found two leaks in the process (dropped 2psi in 15 min), tightened the fittings further, and I am now maintaining 15psi for 15 minutes and counting, so I think this was a success! Very glad I did this the right way, with the pressure test, and then upped the pressure to 25 psi and used soap to narrow down the two leaks, because one of them was in the crawl space. Thanks Milo for the invaluable help!