[Jennings3]

It will only fire when the paddle of the kill switch is disconnected. Does that mean that the coil is bad? What is causing that?
Homelite RE440 with a B & S 197417 motor with electric start. It was abused by my stepfather and I thought I'd try to make it run again. Many thanks, Jennings3

[Stratmando]

That Paddle shorts the ignition(a kill switch), It needs to be disconnected to run.
I also wouldn't keep cranking it while closed/shorted, It can't be good for the coil, may not be bad.
I would also do a Tune up(Plugs, Air Filter, Oil, Fuel Filter at the least).

[Jennings3]

So, this means that when the ignition is shorted it fires the plug? But when it is not shorted the plug will not fire. Does that mean that the magneto/coil is bad and needs preplacement?

[crigby]

Hi,
That is backwards; the ignition shorted to ground is what cuts it off. When there is no path to ground, the ignition works and the plug fires. If it does not work, then the switch could well be bad. But you also need to ascertain whether there is an Oil Gard low oil shutoff present (often is on generators) and connected into the same circuit as this will give the same indication with a low oil situation.
Peace,
Clarke

[Stratmando]

If you know it fires when the paddle is off plug, may be a fuel problem, why do you think the coil is bad, it fires?
Got any Starting Fluid, this will tell If it is a fuel problem. If It wants to run with starting fluid, it is a fuel problem.
Don't overdo starting fluid. Carb may be dirty as well. How does the plug look?
If you can't do a tune up at least check the plug and Air filter.

[Jennings3]

Thanks for your responses:
I tried starting fluid, no luck, no spark, except when the kill switch is disconnected. Now, when the engine turns over it makes a loud shriek, squeak on each turn. Like a brake is on or something. There is plenty of oil.
Dropped the bowl and cleaned the float and things that were accesible. There is gas flowing out of the carbureator.
There is continuity between the oil kill terminal and ground. There is continuity between the oil kill wire and ground.
Any ideas? Thanks, jennings3

[KISS]

The squeeling is due to the clutch in the rope starter. Take off the blower housing and then the clutch.

You can CAREFULLY take it apart. There are about 5 balls in the usual design. Don't loose them. You nned to clean it. No dirt or grease here. The part is about $12 if you go the replace route.

[crigby]

Hi,
It is the starter clutch that must be replaced or cleaned and lubed to cure the shriek. Rope "jump" around, also?
You have an unwanted ground/short electrically, be it in the switch or wiring. It is unusual but you may have a stuck or bad Oil Gard. It can be disconnected, but that means you must replace its diligence about oil level with your own.
Peace,
Clarke

[Jennings3]

I will do what you suggested. While I have the blower housing off and can access the coil, can you tell me how to test it? Thanks, jennings3

[crigby]

Hi,
I would not see the point if you have fire when the switch is diconnected; it works. Check the wire for bare spots that create the short.
Peace,
Clarke

[KISS]

The top post suggests a bad kill switch. That makes a lot of sense. It's stuck closed.

The squeakyness is easily fixed. It's going to be hard to start with the clutch squeaking. What happens is the motor grabs occasionally when running. It's almost like a dead stop.


You have to fix the clutch first.

Coil testing is usually done with a special tester so you can observe the spark. It's kind of like 2 plugs in series.

Make sure the gap is OK and the blower is free of rust along the magnets. I'll assume no points.

[medic-dan]

Have you had any luck?

Continuity between the oil kill and ground = no spark.

I'm not sure what you mean by paddle on the switch. Do you mean the terminal? If so, disconnect just the oil kill circuit and test for spark. It sounds like the oil kill switch failed, very common.

[Jennings3]

I disconnected the oil gard wire. With starter fluid sprayed in the carburetor all I got was one back fire.

The thing still chirps when turning over, even with the blower housing and rewind/starter rope removed.

[medic-dan]

Well, you've likely got a spark then.

Do you have compression?

Where is the chirping coming from? Which end of the engine?

[Jennings3]

Hey thanks: It was just one backfire on many turns. How check compression? It is difficult to tell but the chirp seems like it is from the side with the exhaust and the carburetor.

[medic-dan]

It can be hard to check compression. Some of the small engines have a compression release feature to make it easy to start. I don't know if your engine does or not.

Basically, you get a compression tester and screw it into the spark plug port. Then with the throttle and choke both wide open you pull the cord. It should build up pressure. The alternate method is, do you feel any resistance pulling the cord?

I'm not too worried about the chirp. It may just be air moving in and out

[Jennings3]

The chirp/shriek is very loud. It sounds more a mechanical sound as opposed to air moving. I really can't isolate the origin of the noise.

Pulling the starter yields little resistance. I could not find info regarding pressure release feature.

[medic-dan]

Can you pull they cylinder head off? It shouldn't be very difficult on a flat head. Just be careful with the gasket.

Then, turn the engine over and watch the operation of the valves.

[Jennings3]

Man, I've always wanted to do something like that! I might try but hope my wife doesn't catch me; supposed to be looking for a job; laid off. Thanks for the advice--

[Jennings3]

Removed the cylinder head; it is black with a little rust in places.

The piston is black but the cylinder is smooth except at the very top and where there is a bit of rust.

The valves are black, seem intact, and move in rhythm.

With the removal of the head there is no longer a chirp.