[medic-dan]

Well the good news is that it does run.

Is the float in correctly? It's not hanging up? Make sure the needle valve is in position, the seat could be bad too.

The tab on the float may be bent too. Usually the setting is about 1/4". With the carb upside down you'd insert a 1/4" drill bit and adjust the tab on the float so that it just lightly touches the bit.

[Jennings3]

Well the good news is that it does run.

Is the float in correctly? It's not hanging up? Make sure the needle valve is in position, the seat could be bad too.

The tab on the float may be bent too. Usually the setting is about 1/4". With the carb upside down you'd insert a 1/4" drill bit and adjust the tab on the float so that it just lightly touches the bit.

On the other end of the float needle is a pin that was stuck. I took it out and cleaned it and it sprung back out. Restarted and ran a few seconds until it it flooded and leaked gas out the carb.

Float appears to be in correctly. Did not hang while it was disassembled.

Needle valve seems in position per: http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_walbro_lmt_carb.asp

How can I tell if needle valve seat is bad?

Did not see any adjustable tab on float. I don't understand the drill bit routine.

Do you have any other ideas? Thanks

[medic-dan]

On earlier model carbs there was a brass float with a metal tab you could bend to position the float needle properly. So there was a certain level in the float bowl. Looking again at the B&S page, I don't see any tab on that float.

A leaky needle valve is probably not the issue. Gas coming out the carb indicates the float needle isn't seating properly/damaged.

Make sure the needle moves freely and easily.