[hwheat]

Why has my question had 56 views and no answers :(

Am I supposed to be paying someone? I thought this was free. Help.

Below is my question:

I don't think my ignitor has a flame sensor, but it may be incorporated. It is a round ignitor. White on the bottom with a black spiral heating element. 2 wires.



My heater has a hot surface ignitor.

Ignitor kicks on - gas kicks on - gas lights - quickly goes out.

Pulled wires on vacuum switch and put back.

Works now - ignitor kicks on - gas kicks on - gas lights - quickly goes out - gas kicks back on quickly and stays lit.

Is something wrong? Do I need to work on it?

[stevetcg]

Why has my question had 56 views and no answers :(

Am I supposed to be paying someone? I thought this was free. Help.

Probably because no one around here can diagnose your problem and offer intelligent solutions.

THe site is free - but its also comprised of volunteers, so its sort of a hit or miss thing. Ive found that most questions are answered however.

If no one can offer a solution, it might be worth giving the gas company a call and see if they can send someone out to look at it.

[hkstroud]

I'm sure that Steve is correct about why you have gotten any responses. Also if you had posted in the plumbing site your chances would have been better.
Now for an unintelligent response. If you water heater has a sealed combustion chamber (I am sure it does), check the air intake port, I believe that there may be a filter there. Make sure that it is clean.

[hwheat]

Thanks for the responses guys.

As for a sealed combustion chamber - it does not have one. It has a burner under the tank. You can see open flame through the sliding door.

I think the flame sesnor idea sounds the most relevant - but I don't think mine has a flame sensor. It's not on the schematic.

[hwheat]

I hope this helps someone else with this problem. I finally fixed the problem myself. I called Rheem and they gave me some trouble shooting tips. Check the vacuum switch - which was fine. If not vacuum switch, likely the controller.

I actually replaced the controller and the problem went away for a few days then came back.

After exhaustive troubleshooting, I found a slightly open male terminal on the lead from the 24V transformer that connects to the gas valve. I was getting 24 volts, but the valve was not working. I reduced the gap with a pair of needle nose pliers and the problem is fixed.

I reinstalled the original controller and found that it was actually faulty. It would provide 24 volts for about 1 second then go to zero. So - I had two issues.

Again - I hope this helps someone else.

[34eddy67]

I also had a lot of trouble with my Rheem. Too complex! Next time I think I'll go back to electric!

[ccapredoni]

I am now having the same problem with my PVW50 after 10 years of flawless service. I cannot locate the flame sensor on the unit or in the owners manual so I assume it is integrated somewhere. Either the ignitor has it or the flame switch (flame control module). Everything else works fine so the module must need replacing. I do not know if this is a DIY job. It looks simple enough, two connectors, two tiny screws but I do not know where the wire that is attached at the bottom actually goes--to the ignitor?

[hkstroud]

The wire would go to the gas valve. Try cleaning the flame sensor.
Clean with alcohol or mineral spirits. Might try sanding very lightly with very fine sand paper.

[ccapredoni]

Hi--I removed and cleaned the flame sensor with fine sandpaper. That did not improve the situation.