[crigby]

Hi,
Reusing should work; give engine model and types and I will see what connectors and amperages each has.
Peace,
Clarke

[geoffreyburnham]

HI Clarke, I thought I had listed the engine model numbers in the first post, but now see that I didn't.. sorry about that... the old engine is a 350777-1152. The replacement engine is a 350777-1159. I have also enclosed pictures of my old engine as well as a pic from the seller of the replacement engine...

Geoff

[geoffreyburnham]

Here are the pictures I mentioned.. I thought they were attached the first time but I guess they weren't...

Geoff

[crigby]

Hi,
Your replacement engine is a drop-in replacement though it was actually made for another manufacturer and is surplus. The "trick" there is that while company may only need 9500 engines, the price-break is at 10,000. It could be cost-efficient to buy 500 extras and wholesale the surplus to get the lower price.
That electrical connector must be supplied by the person the engine was made for as it is not a standard Briggs part.
Both regulators are 10-16 Amp units, however the alternators are 10 Amp. Would not scrap the new one even if the old one is viable and used. Check the output after you get everything together. As a general rule the voltage measured at the battery terminals with engine running at full throttle will be somewhere in the neighborhood of 14.5V. Battery voltage itself ought to be 12.6-13.2V on average without the engine running.
Peace,
Clarke
PS I have the parts breakdown if you are interested; just send private message so that you do not publish your email address and I will send it that way. A tad under 1 Meg.

[geoffreyburnham]

I got your message but still a bit confused... ( so what else is news?) the wiring from the old engine, has TWO separate wires coming out of the Voltage regulator, one red and one brown. The new engine has a THREE conductor multiplug connector with three wires, a RED, TAN and ORANGE, plus another Brown wire like on the old engine. Both engines have a TWO Yellow wire multiplug that appears to come out of the voltage regulator and go back into it. How do I go about connecting the new voltage regulator to the old wiring?

Geoff

[crigby]

Hi,
Look at your photo again; it shows two connectors. The yellow wires should come from the alternator under the flywheel and be the AC source. The red wire is the DC regulated voltage. I gather the other wires going to the three prong connector are an AC for headlights or something that requires voltage but has no preference and, I am guessing, a regulation reference for a situation where the quality of the DC is important. I do not know if you have had the opportunity or inclination to test the DC output, but it will indeed have an AC component to it that could easily be 35V. A reference input allows the regulator to remove much of this dynamically.
The brown wire ought to be the anti-backfire solenoid on the carb, but I would check this before hooking it up. The ignition ground should be the spade fastened by the nut onto the threaded postabove and in front of those other things.
Peace,
Clarke

[geoffreyburnham]

Hello Clarke,

I did send you a private message... regarding the recommendations you made... if I understand you correctly, the only connections that I NEED to make would be the brown wire for anti-backfire from the new engine to the brown wire on the harness that was connected to the same wire on the old engine. They are the same color and physically come from the same spots on both engines... I also need to connect the RED wire from the triple multi connector on the new engine to the red wire from the wiring harness on the mower that was previously connected via a single plug to the red wire on the old engine coming from the voltage regulator and I do not need to do anything with the other two wires in the molded triple plug on the new engine... am I correct on my thinking or have I got it screwed up?

Geoff

[crigby]

Hi,
You have the gist of it perfectly correct. Your AC in plug with yellow wires should fit, your brown wires and you should have a female spade connector for the ignition ground all in your harness. Those other two wires are superfluous in your application.
Peace,
Clarke