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hvac1000 · Aug 4, 2009, 05:40 PM

You have a bad fitting OR the fitting is being used improperly.

5spd07gt · Aug 4, 2009, 06:36 PM

I went to a plumbing specialty store and the fitting they gave me is 1/2 female on both ends. Also both ends of the piece are pipe threaded. Now the male end on the piece at the shutoff is compression and the male end on the stove gas line is pipe. The leak is coming from where the pipe thread (on the piece I just bought) is screwed onto the male compression part. Do they make a 1/2 coupler that one end is a female pipe thread and the other is a female compression? Hope I am making sense

hvac1000 · Aug 4, 2009, 08:04 PM

Take the pieces you have to the plumbing speciality store where you bought them and show them how you are putting them together. They can see what you have and what you are doing with them and they can figure out what is wrong.

hkstroud · Aug 4, 2009, 09:30 PM

Compression fittings are not used on gas lines. Gas piping uses flare fittings. Where is that picture you promised?Many places do not permit teflon tape on gas lines, use pipe dope.

5spd07gt · Aug 5, 2009, 06:42 AM

I took the pieces to the store with me the first time and that's the part they gave me.

You are right, they are flare fittings, not compression. I am new to all this. Sorry about the pictures. I'll get them today. What I am using isn't normal teflon tape. It says its plumming "tape dope". Or is that the same? If it is I will have to buy some pipe dope.

5spd07gt · Aug 5, 2009, 07:17 AM

Sorry the picture is sooo blurry.

KISS · Aug 5, 2009, 09:52 PM

The pipe fittings need to be TIGHT. At least 2 full turns after finger tight. I think the number is 2-1/2 turns.

Compression fittings (the top one) doesn't get pipe dope or tape,

hvac1000 · Aug 6, 2009, 01:06 AM

Looks like it is a flare valve screwed into a black iron coupling. That is a NO NO. Better picture please so I can really tell.

5spd07gt · Aug 6, 2009, 06:15 AM

It is a black iron couplling. What should I have?

KISS · Aug 6, 2009, 06:38 AM

Does the gas valve look like the TBVA? (Tube to Pipe - right angle) on page 23?

Example of a Flare/Tube fitting - http://mdmetric.com/serto/Image15.gif

A pipe fitting looks like: Google Images

The other possibility is that the fitting on the valve is cross-threaded because it doesn't look straight.

hvac1000 · Aug 6, 2009, 09:58 AM

A flare gas valve does not have tapered threads. Tapered threads are needed to use a black iron fitting. It will never seal properly if that is what you have.

5spd07gt · Aug 6, 2009, 10:09 AM

Mine is flared I believe. Its not a straight cut, its sort of domed. What fiting do I need then? Guys I really do appreciate all the help and that you are being patient with me as I really don't know what I am talking about and learning as I go. Thanks again so much

KISS · Aug 6, 2009, 10:52 AM

Use the F - ID and the F - OD numbers to identify the two fittings needed. http://www.cristgroup.com/pdf/SS%20F...20Brochure.pdf

Gas valve
Appliance

The other option is to replace the gas valve which actually might be easier.

5spd07gt · Aug 6, 2009, 01:49 PM

Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid

Use the F - ID and the F - OD numbers to identify the two fittings needed. http://www.cristgroup.com/pdf/SS%20F...20Brochure.pdf

Sorry but I don't understand. How much would a plumber charge to just come and fix the darn thing?

KISS · Aug 6, 2009, 03:48 PM

For instance, from the table:

a 1/2" flare male fitting has a Flare OD (F OD) of 0.550" and has a Flare ID (F ID) of 0.375"

If you measure the outside of the flare it should be about 35/64" of an inch or about 3/64 more than 1/2 an inch.

If you measure the diameter from the inner angles, you get 0.375 or 3/8" of an inch.

If you get these measurements, you have a 1/2" flare fitting.

For the 3/4 male flare fitting F - OD = .805 which is about 13/16".

0.625 is the F-ID which is 5/8 of an inch.

Also measure the OD of the pipe feeding the valve. To do that measure the circumference. Take a piece of paper and wrap it around the pipe and cut both layers at the same time with a razer blade. Measure the length of the piece of paper. The OD of the pipe is then (length of paper)/3.14

hkstroud · Aug 6, 2009, 09:16 PM

Looks to me like he has a close nipple in a 90 and the valve on the close nipple, then another close nipple and then the coupling. He can't tighten the close nipple in the 90.

If that is correct, get two 1 ½ or 2" nipples, another valve and some pipe dope.

You need enough room on the nipples to get your pipe wrench on it. You need a new valve because you probably stretched the brass of the one you have trying to screw it and the nipple together into the 90.
Dope and put the nipple into the 90, put the valve on the nipple. Put the other nipple and the coupling together and then put nipple in valve. Tighten but don't over tighten, the iron pipe will stretch the brass of the valve. Then put on flex gas line.

Of course, I'm all wet if the valve has male threads.

Why you going up with the flex line then down? Such a sharp bend is not good for the flex. If possible replace the horizontial pipe with shorted piece of pipe, put on gas valve then put on flex and let it turn down.

5spd07gt · Aug 8, 2009, 02:04 PM

Originally Posted by hkstroud

Looks to me like he has a close nipple in a 90 and the valve on the close nipple, then another close nipple and then the coupling. He can’t tighten the close nipple in the 90.

If that is correct, get two 1 ½ or 2" nipples, another valve and some pipe dope.

You need enough room on the nipples to get your pipe wrench on it. You need a new valve because you probably stretched the brass of the one you have trying to screw it and the nipple together into the 90.
Dope and put the nipple into the 90, put the valve on the nipple. Put the other nipple and the coupling together and then put nipple in valve. Tighten but don't over tighten, the iron pipe will stretch the brass of the valve. Then put on flex gas line.

Of course, I'm all wet if the valve has male threads.

Why you going up with the flex line then down? Such a sharp bend is not good for the flex. If possible replace the horizontial pipe with shorted piece of pipe, put on gas valve then put on flex and let it turn down.

Can you give me a link to the parts I need to buy? I am pretty sure you are right on the money

hkstroud · Aug 8, 2009, 07:13 PM

Just go to hardware store, Home Depot or Lowe's. Lowe's usually has more competent help. If you are really unsure of what you want, find some old guy.

A nipple is just a short piece of pipe. A coupling is just that thing you already bought. It is used to connect 2 pieces of pipe together.

Get black pipe, not galvanized. You don't use galvanized pipe for gas.

Measure that horizontal pipe. I'm guessing that it is screwed into a 90 elbow some where out of the picture. Get a shorter piece of pipe. It should be short enough so that you can add your valve, nipple, flex line adapter and still have 6-12 inches of flex line to th corner. It should be long enough that you flex line will connect to stove.

That pipe is probably 1/2" pipe. The diameter of pipe is the inside diameter.

If the gas valve you purchase has female threads you should only need the shorter pipe, the valve and a nipple. The coupling to connect the flex adapter you already have. Nipple should be, say 6" long. A close nipple is just a real short piece of pipe with threads on both ends and no unthreaded pipe in between. No place to put your pipe wrench. You are using pipe wrenches aren't you. Probably need two, they work in pairs, one to hold the pipe with, one to tighten with.

That piping looks like it is in the back of a cabinet. Can you post a wider-angle picture?

5spd07gt · Aug 16, 2009, 04:50 PM

I'll use a better camera and get some better pictures tomorrow. (I am at work until 11pm tonite). The pipe is in the corner of a cabinet. The corner is cut out though so it fits around the pipe. The horizontal pipe is under the kitchen floor, then comes straight up to the shutoff valve etc. So your saying change out everything from the horizontal pipe up? Where would the shutoff for the gas be? The only one I know of is after the horizontal piping. I understand what parts you are talking about but still not 100% on how/where they should go. Thanks for your patience. I have been to Lowe's and Home Depot on several occasions and it was nothing but a waste of time. They were no help. My wife is close to just calling someone to come fix it. Paid $1000 for the darn stove over a month ago and still haven't used it. Good thing she don't cook too much

hkstroud · Aug 16, 2009, 05:18 PM

Yes, better pics. What I am concerned about is the sharp bend in the flex connecter. It currently appears to go up then bend 180 degrees and go down. Maybe its just the picture. I assumed the horizontal pipe was the incoming gas piping. Better pictures would help.

Hang in there we will get it all sorted out.